Have a friend that took a Mauser action and cut a section out of the center of it to make it really short because he stuck a 45 acp chambered rifle barrel on it. He had the two sectioned welded together while keeping the from receiver cool. He shortened the bolt also. There in lies the problem. He says there's not enough room for the firing pin spring and/or the pin doesn't retract enough for a good primer strike because the spring is compacted solid. Any of you fellows know of any solutions? We already discussed moving the spring retaining collar on the front end of the firing pin more forward thus creating more space, but he said that's not enough.

Have you tried just clipping off coils on a spring until the pin cocks OK, and then see if it is strong enough to set off the pistol primers you are using? Maybe remove the spring and arrange it in the cocked position and take a measurement, then figure how many coils to cut off. You can also make a spring using thinner wire.

A lighter striker should give a faster striker fall too. The Rem 720s (?) used the M17 striker with grooves milled into the sides to lighten it & improve lock time. Its worth considering.
Steve

Can you post photos of his work? I am sure that we all would enjoy seeing some photos.

Well he has had suggestions of different types of springs, spring within a spring, etc.. I'll see what I can dig up for pics as he did post some on another forum. It's been some time since he had fooled with this action because of this firing pin stalemate.

This pic will give you an idea of how short the action is and possibly why the firing pin problem.

I have seen die springs used as firing pin springs before. See if you can find anything that might work from Danly. Well teh Danly website is down so try this one: http://www.nolansupply.com/bys...ype=False&specs=True

Remind me to never shake hands with that guy if he can work the action with that stub of a bolt handle!


That is an interesting project. In addition to clipping coils on the spring you can also take some material off the sear to get a little more clearance, but I'd just get a sacrificial spring first and see what can be done.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark:
Remind me to never shake hands with that guy if he can work the action with that stub of a bolt handle!


That is an interesting project. In addition to clipping coils on the spring you can also take some material off the sear to get a little more clearance, but I'd just get a sacrificial spring first and see what can be done.

I just knew you would spot that and say something

I think he may have cut the bolt off to be able to work on shortening it easier,dunno, but he'll put another one on.

Thanks for the help so far.

A friend shortened one almost as much. he turned the shoulder off the FP and threaded it. He then made a threaded "washer" after clipping coils off the spring, he used the washer and threads to fine tune the tension.

and.... I got ahead of myself, I believe he did end up makeing a second washer to correct FP distance once he established tension.

I think he painted himself into a corner. I once had a similar problem when I shortned to 22 Hornet.

Had to make new firing pin and nut, threaded it something like a Sako...but that was not as short as your example!

IMO he'll be waaayyyy ahead if he'll bore out the forward hollow portion of the bolt body and move the mainspring shoulder as far forward on the striker as possible, maybe an additional 1/2" or more if possible. Mainsprings with more strength, up to 50% more, can be had from Brownell's or he can wind his own from square stock. I also believe some additional length can be obtained at the rear end of the striker by shortening the front of the bolt sleeve but this may be problematic.
Regards, Joe

couple choices
1: make a new spring from lighter gage wire OR "spin" it down - I learned that part on an AGI video ..
2: get a MUCH heaver spring, cut off alot of coils, and streatch it, HOPING to get about the same power in less space ..

then you can start cutting the spring stops back, on either end, and mix/match above.

i guess you could turn a spring out of w1 steel and oil quench it, then draw it.. MAYBE

i KNOW w1 is water quenching, but quenching in oil prevents it from surface cracking -- might be too hard, though.

You might try a flat coil spring. CZ had to go to a flat coil spring in their CZ75 Compact 40 cal for the same reason. Round springs could not be compressed enough in the length available.

solenoid? do they make'em that small.



http://w2s.ledex.com/ledx/ds/L...G2e.lasso?pcode=L304

I say go with TSJ's solution.

But just to throw out a brain storm idea, you can get littl espring things that are like Bellvue washers. They are cupped disks with holes in them and can be stacked back to back ona shaft to operate as a singl espring. I think I read an article where they were used on a firing pin at one time. But I have seen them used like this in other applications and they worked. Just throwing it out there if your bud does not want to follow one of th eother routes.

quote:

Originally posted by Marc_Stokeld:
I say go with TSJ's solution.

But just to throw out a brain storm idea, you can get littl espring things that are like Bellvue washers. They are cupped disks with holes in them and can be stacked back to back ona shaft to operate as a singl espring. I think I read an article where they were used on a firing pin at one time. But I have seen them used like this in other applications and they worked. Just throwing it out there if your bud does not want to follow one of th eother routes.

The RPA 2000 and I believe the Quadlock actions use the bellville stack for a firing pin spring. These are four lug actions with a short lift and resulting considerable cocking effort. But, they are some of the most accurate long range and Palma actions ever made. Especially when issued ammo was required.