Ladies and Gentlemen:

What make and model of TIG Welder do you like to use to weld bolt handles, fix a bit of pitting and for filling/repairing misaligned scope base holes in a Mauser receiver?

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

I have not use it to weld on gun parts but I have a Miller Maxstar 150 STL that I use. It seems to be a good machine and it can be run on your common 110 outlet. It also is small and compact if your short on space.

miller econotig

quote:

Originally posted by Yale:
Ladies and Gentlemen:

What make and model of TIG Welder do you like to use to weld bolt handles, fix a bit of pitting and for filling/repairing misaligned scope base holes in a Mauser receiver?

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

I use a Miller DialArc HF machine for everything, from laying weld on the edge of a SAA sear, rebuilding the head of a pin to 1/2 inch thick stuff. If I need to weld heavier stuff I just put it in "stick" mode.

I have a Miller 150 Maxstar, stick only, and a Thermal-Arc 200 stick/TIG machine. Both are portable "lunchbox" size machines.

take a stroll thru Ebay:

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trks...IG+welder&category0=


you might consider the low-end machines.

Miller Econo Tig, has worked very well for my gunsmith needs from bolt handles to very small parts.

thermalarc ultraspark ...
MUST have a footpedal

Lincoln 175 square wave.

You can build up sears, hammer notches, firing pin tips, weld on bolt handles plus sight ramps and sling swivel eyes to barrel bands, just to name a few uses.

I use mine soo much I can't imagine not having one.

We used to forge Mauser bolts, now we weld them.


I have a Lincoln Precision TIG 185.



My brother has a Lincoln Precision TIG 225.


Everything my brother makes looks like jewelry, and everything I make looks like a Homer Simpson home made spice rack.

What does it all mean?
TIG welding takes some skill.

I have an old Miller 320ABP. It weighs about 900 pounds, but I got it cheap in an auction. What the guys that make their living doing precision welding tell me is that it is about the smoothest welding machine out there.

Better yet, I can weld anything from aluminum foil to 1-inch plate.

Dave

Thank you for all of your considered advice.

I found a supply shop right up the street in Allentown, Pennsylvania, and I'll visit them to check out the welders. They carry the Miller and Lincoln lines.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:I use a Miller DialArc HF

Ditto

quote:

Originally posted by gunmaker:

quote:

Originally posted by Westpac:I use a Miller DialArc HF

Ditto

I kinda like a 12v car battery myself.

But, when I can't find one or am too lazy to remove it from the car I use a Miller 180 SD.

I also have a Miller 180 SD.

Synrowave 250. Buy some Tartan- TIG rod and you'll find you can do wonders with it.-Rob

I second the Tartan rod. I also upgraded my torch with gas lenses for a HUGE improvement.

in shop we have probably 6 or 8 different makes, i believe the one that gets the most use if a incoln square wave, but its a hellofvalot bigger machine than what you'd need for gun work. Remember one thing when welding, its not the machine that makes a good weld and the only way you're going to get good at it is to do it - lots

Ladies and Gentlemen:

Thanks again for your input.

I visited a local jobber in Allentown, and spoke to a former Dana and Penske welder, who does inside sales now, and he suggested the Miller Synchrowave 200. His quotation was really decent.

I will restore a 1989 BMW 325iC convertable probably next spring, and I'll need the Tig welder for body panels, too. So, therefore the upgrade from the Econotig, since I can weld at a lower amperage for the body panels as per his suggestion.

He worked in the Penske body shop in Reading, Pennsylvania for 15 years.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

make sure whatever you buy has a pulse sequence for light body work it will help with warpage

Miller Syncrowave/Water cooled