Feels like I'm back where I started.

Months ago.

I'm getting ready to blue the receivers/barrels on two project rifles, and once again, stoning the receivers.

Buff and puff, I guess you could call it.

Actually, I found a site with a bunch of excellent metal work tutorials. I don't even know whose site it is. I believe some of the work is by Jack Belk, but I'm not certain. It's an education in how a receiver should be tuned.

If you have the tools, and are a pro.

Other than the fact that it shows all my painful shortcomings, it's great to learn this stuff.

Anyway, I reasonably happy with my projects. Especially project #1. It's a 7x57, 1909 receiver, L-W barrel, NECG barrel band front site, Lyman aperture rear, all bedded into a nice traditional--very light--piece of claro walnut.

I couldn't help myself.

I put it all together, loaded some brass, and took it to the range.

It groups.

So here's the question(s): I've read numerous views on bluing barrels. Dunlap describes the process of the old Niedner shop, and apparently they plugged the dry barrels for bluing. And replaced the plugs on each pass.

Kuhnhausen says to plug oiled barrels.

BobVZ has suggested painting the bore, and other parts of the receiver that will remain unblued, with lacquer. This sounds attractive, if only because of its simplicity.

Here's the controversial part: Even though I've marked the receiver and barrel on project #1, I'm a little worried about removing the receiver for bluing. Which, I expect, would be the professional process.

I'm worried about getting the barrel back on exactly the way it is now, even though I have a good action wrench and barrel vise.

I really have no excuses. And I want to complete these projects.

I have a nice humidity box, and a good tank to boil the barrels.

I'm probably just getting nervous about this. As I usually do.

Especially since the 7x57 groups. And looks pretty good, even without the barrel and receiver blued.

Look, even though these will never be "Custom," in the sense of work by guys whose names are legend around here--I hadn't even considered the concept of "appropriate donor" when I began with these actions with "minor pitting"--I'm pleased with what I've achieved so far.

And don't want to screw up now.

Paint or plug? On the barrels. I'd love to hear advice from both camps.

And would it be cheap and cheesey, and a good way to screw up a fine project so far, if I chose to cold rust blue the action and receiver together.

TIA,

flaco

got a link to the website with the metal working tutorials?

My vote and experience is using neoprene expansion plugs, ground to fit if necessary by turning against a file with a drill press.

The plugs I buy in the small screws and misc. stuff section at a hardware store.

I would not blue two pieces together. The one time I did, the parting line did not take the blue at all well (oil leaking out of the joint?).

Brent

Flaco,
I use cold rust blue exclusively and don't plug the barrell or any other holes. The solution is wiped on "cold" and left to rust overnight. Next day I boil the parts in clean water, wire brush the parts then put another coat on and let rust again. 3 coats is usually enough for a deep blue, 4 coats for a black blue.

USE RUBBER GLOVES APRON AND FACE SHIELD WHEN MIXING THE ACIDS

The solution I use is:-
Hydrochloric Acid...........3 oz
Nitric Acid.................4 oz
Distilled Water.............1 qt.
Iron Nails..................8 oz
Mix the acids together in a porcelain mixing bowl ( outdoors, 'cause of the fumes )
Disolve the nails in the mixed acids till the reaction stops then,
ADD THE ACID SOLUTION TO THE WATER never the other way around as you will get a violent reaction.
I store the mixture in pint bottles I got from the chemist.
I clean the parts to, be Blued, with a cold Caustic Solution ( 1 table spoon Caustic Soda to 8oz water ) wiped on the parts and rubbed with a cloth.Rince off with running water and let dry

Shake the mixture well before applying to the parts.I use a 'Q'tip to apply a thin coat.
This mixture will last ages. It gives a very durable deep blue.
Cheers
Tony

Are you talking about slow rust bluing? I am currently setting up to start my learning of that (figuring a way to mount the carding wheel on the motor I bought). I have talked to some really good/experienced guys and have a few things I'll say, but this has not been tried by me so please wait till somebody like Roger Kehr (scrollcutter) or Chic Worthing post

1. best results will be taking barrel off receiver, this is because ALL OIL MUST BE OFF for a good rust blue, oil is death to it. the barrel threads are a good place for oil to hide and not come out till too late.. you can mark the barrel and receiver if you need to so that you can match it up afterwards, but ifyou have the right tools to do what you have done so far you should have no trouble putting it back together.

2. The sooner after polish you do the job the better, if you have let the metal sit for a while since polishing you might consider blasting it with a fine media

3. Painting the inside with something has been recommended to me, as has plugging the barrel with appropriate size stoppers from test tubes, they come in a variety of sizes.

Personally I am going to start on floorplates and individual parts before I start taking my rifles apart and doing them "just in case"

Good luck with the project.

Red

Just 30 minutes ago I spoke to one of the premier barrelmakers about this subject. He said the rust blue may help the bore as the oxidizing is in the millions of an inch and probably remove some small burrs and so forth. It could speed up the break in time. The first few shots down the barrel will remove the rest of the blueing. Butch

I've already mentioned Project #1, the 7X57, but here's Project #2:



She's another 1909, this time 6.5x55, with a Lothar Walther Article 724.

Davis May bent the bolt--a little short, I guess, but she's a target rifle--and the wood came from Jim Preslik. I learnt about him here.

Obviously, I'm pretty convinced Jim Preslik is a Saint.

I've had good advice from almost everyone, but am truly indebted to Bill Soverns.

If it's not obvious, yes, I'm an obsessive, and love doing this stuff. I'm a writer/photographer, so this is way out of my metier, but... despite the protestations from a truly talented bubba on another forum, there's more shared between the literary craft and the gun making craft than is obvious.

It's about attention to detail.

I am reminded of Gustave Flaubert, who wrote "Madame Bovary."

I don't guess a lot of gunsmiths have read it--maybe forced to, in High School--but it's a pretty racy tale for the 19th century. Mainly, teacher's don't tell their students how to interpret it.

What I'm getting at here is that Flaubert had a concept, "le mot juste," the perfect word.

He agonized for days over his writing.

If this isn't what real custom gun makers do, please let me know.

No effort spared.

Everything as perfect as possible.

Anyway, you can see the pin in the bottom metal where I'm fitting the floorplate release, and I'll knock down the current coat of tung oil, and do it again.

The receiver is just about ready to blue, as is the barrel.

Am I the only one who gets nervous when things look this good?

Or is it just because I'm a rookie?

flaco

Don't ever underestimate writers. Flaubert came back from a trip to North Africa dreaming about a feast that included tiger clitorises. With plenty of garlic butter, presumably.

What do you expect from a nation that eats snails?

Sheesh-

I forgot to thank z1r.

I must have been drinking.

Go figure.

flaco

flaco - Great-looking work. As for getting the barrel screwed back to the proper position, most 'smiths mark the barrel/receiver connection with a chisel (on the bottom, of course). This gives you a mark on both the barrel and receiver ring to line up. I've never actually done it, you understand, but all my guns have that mark. Good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by Nate:
got a link to the website with the metal working tutorials?

Yeah...we need to see this.

Apologies, Nate and Fireball-

I am absolutely convinced that the site with the tutorials belongs to an AR member.

One much more accomplished than I.

Some of the topics on the site are personal. So I am reluctant to post the URL.

There's a good chance this member will see the post, and share.

In the meantime, I'm truly grateful.

flaco

Uhhh....Why would someone put up a website with material that is too personal to share?

quote:

Originally posted by flaco:
Apologies, Nate and Fireball-

I am absolutely convinced that the site with the tutorials belongs to an AR member.

One much more accomplished than I.

Some of the topics on the site are personal. So I am reluctant to post the URL.

There's a good chance this member will see the post, and share.

In the meantime, I'm truly grateful.

flaco

Jack Belk's Webshots Album link has been posted here before.

The main album is here.

Polishing an action.

If that is not what you had in mind, I apologize.

Thank you, Charles.

flaco