06 April 2008, 00:10
Blackbart2Getting rid of caustic bluing "bloom"..?
Guys,
I had a couple of p-64 swivels re-blued, and I am getting what I believe is commonly referred to as a "bloom" coming out of swivel stud to swivel junction.
I believe that this is a result of bluing salts remaining in there, right?
So, how do I get rid of it? I would imagine that I might dunk them in a pot of boiling water, or two to get residual these salts out, or is there a better way to deal with this...permanently!
TIA,
Bob
06 April 2008, 00:24
WestpacA hot water rinse will do the job followed by a little water displacing oil.
06 April 2008, 00:36
Jim C. <><I used to do some caustic blueing, it's hard to get that stuff out of deep crevices and I doubt if a simple hot water rinse will do it. Do your boiling thing, maybe for 10 minutes or so, and you may have to repeat it. And apply oil afterwards.
06 April 2008, 00:50
ireload2The cleaner the water you rinse with the better.
Deionized or distilled water boiled in a clean glass container will absorb more of the remain salts than tap water.
I would boil and fish them out with a stainless steel wire and blow them out with compressed air.
Repeat the boiling and blow out until there can't possibly be anything left in the the crevices.
Every time you blow it out you remove some of the minerals.
When you boil it again it dilutes the minerals some more.
Boil and compressed air.....
Finally oil it.
06 April 2008, 05:45
Toomany ToolsEither boil the parts, or just wipe them off a few times with an oily rag and eventually it will stop. I doubt a sling swivel will hold much. If you have sensitive skin be careful as the salts can burn you; the scars on my right arm prove it.
06 April 2008, 19:08
jeffeossoits a salt bloom, and it can change the blue at the join. wiping it off and using kroil seems to work well...
jeffe
I really hate to hot caustic blue.....one of the least fun things I do at the shop. That said, I find a good long boil in clean water really seems to help. It removes the left over salts in the hard to reach places and also converts any red oxides to a much more stable black oxide. After that I pull the pieces, dry them off with compressed air and cover them with a good coat of WD40 inside and out. The next Day I degrease them with brake cleaner and acetone and then place a thin coating of a good gun oil on them.
Steve