Guys,

I can't find a LH stock for my LH Charles Daly Mausers I'm building. I've got Carbelite RH Mauser stocks that the actions fit in if I lower the area where the bolt release is and cut a notch for the bolt handle on the other side.

Can I build a tape dam and fill in the right sided bolt handle notch with bedding compound, sand, and paint? and do the same to build up the are opposite the bolt release? Or is is all going to crack and fall apart. Appreciate any feedback.

Thanks,
Steve

i used steel bed when i converted a raptor stock to a mexican mauser... painted it, worked fine

jeffe

Jeffe,

Thanks for the response. Good deal. Can't wait until I'm done with these and see how they shoot.

Steve

Steve,

B&C has sythetics for L/H Mini-Mausers and so does Richard's Microfit Gunstocks in laminate. McMillan also makes sythetic stocks that are both LH/RH ready and ambidextrous ones that can be inletted/bedded for RH/LH.

If you've got a standard length action you're on your own; or at least I was about five years ago - Ugh.

My solution was the following:

I used a Bell & Carlson R/H '98 Mauser stock and yes, it could have been the Carbolite if I am am not mistaken. It was their standard, vanilla-flavored black '98 Mauser stock without cheekpiece & checkering, with a pretty decent recoil pad & Uncle Mike's sling swivel studs installed.

I cut the top part of the stock's action area off with a flex (a Dremel Tool or hack saw will do fine as well) so the action area of the stock was even and I could lay the barreled action into the stock (you also have to grind away & fiddle a little bit with the area for the safety, too).

After that I re-glass bedded the action area with Acra-Steel; building up the appropriate areas using some toungue depressers and 100 mile an hour tape to hold the Acra-Steel in place. I built it up pretty evenly on both sides and then later (what I recommend) carefully cut out the bolt stop (removed during Steel-Bedding), the L/H ejector area cut and bolt handle cut with a combination of Dremel Tool, files and sand paper.

I had some issues with the paint and our AR buddies helped me with that (it wouldn't set/dry correctly) but now it looks great and is as robust as ever. All-in-All a pretty nifty DIY project if you are so inclined and handy enough with tools. I'm no particular expert having only glass-bedded 4-5 rifles in my day. My opinion is that if you can glass-bed a rifle you can accomplish this as well and it will end up being durable if done correctly.

It looked like a glob of crap as work was in progress but when everything dried/set I sanded off what I didn't need. Although I didn't get to use any because Brownell's cannot ship it overseas, their Pebble Paint is just the right amount of texture to cover any minor imperfections. Looks neat, too. I thought it turned out pretty well myself and the remarks about how "Cool" it looks from my hunting buddies tend to reinforce that.

Having said that, I'm sure you could get an accomplished gunsmith to do similar, too.

It has also held up well under various climatic conditions form freezing to hot as hell without a hickup and also copes with the increased recoil as the rifle was originally a .30/06 Sprg. and is now a 9.3x62 Mauser. Net, the re-built area is probably the strongest area of the stock.

Good luck with your project.

Gerry,

Thanks for the detailed reply.

It is a standard-length action, so I'm going to follow your directions.

I sure appreciate it. Should be fun.

Steve