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One of Us |
I have a tip down British rifle that has been converted from 303B to 22LR. While the iron sights are nice, I can't see them well enough for precision shooting. I could have Talley bases mounted to the barrel, but they obscure the iron sights. The top of the barrel at the breech is flat. I'd like a recommendation for a gunsmith to mill the top of the barrel for Talley bases. Shown is the current barrel, and a nice German 7/8" tube scope with Talley rings and bases attached. https://postimg.cc/gallery/n7BWDcS Photos with dimensions. There is sufficient room for the two Talley bases to fit on the 2.8" long level section of the barrel. https://postimg.cc/gallery/XG0F9kJ Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | ||
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one of us |
I understand your situation. However, I would also caution milling the barrel of a collectable firearm. Its your gun and if you want it that way fine. What if you had some flat bottom bases affixed to the barrel with a high strength epoxy? After all, it is just a .22. If you change your mind or want to sell it at a later date, it could be restored to original.
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One of Us |
I have epoxied sights on guns in the past. They all have failed. Maybe if someone could make a base with wings that fitted the forward bevel it might stick. If course there is always solder. I wonder if there is a period correct mount system for a scope on a British rifle. I'm guessing the gun is from early to mid 20th century, but I've only seen German scopes on same- period vintage rifles. The beauty of Talley bases would be that I could switch scopes. I have a 10X Lyman that would work by putting both rings forward of the Turret. Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | |||
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Moderator |
try blackmax 380 https://www.amazon.com/Loctite...rearms/dp/B0CHJY2H4T I have literally hot blued a test piece with this on it, as I just couldn't get my head around how tough it's supposed to be -- the sights stayed on after a full bluing cycle, though the front blade insert was alum and melted -- easy fix, stupid of me to overlook btw, don't buy more than you need, as like all loctite, it will go bad, in if kept in a fridge opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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One of Us![]() |
It's just a 22 and I doubt you will do anything but plink a bit; then hang it on the wall. So, get some double sided tape, and when you are done playing, remove the sights. | |||
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One of Us |
I took a long talley base and cut it to the length of the flat on the barrel. Then a new base will be cut on the rear of the rail, and the rail will be thinned to clear the irons and the underside will be sculpted to fit the barrels contour. I have some specialty adhesive that should hold. The scope will fit nice and low on the gun. No holes will be drilled. Quick, Cheap, or Good: Pick Two | |||
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One of Us |
Soft solder it on. | |||
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one of us |
Jeff, I have a high condition Marlin 336 "waffle top" from the early 1950, it is not drilled and tapped. My eyes don't do iron sights very well anymore, but I'm reticent to drill it for a scope. If I glue bases on with this stuff, will I be able to remove it to restore the gun to its original condition? thanks, Rob | |||
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One of Us![]() |
No, a 30-30 has way too much recoil to hold a scope on with any adhesive. Get a new 336 and shoot that one. We are talking about holding iron sights on a 22; not scopes. Inertia and all. | |||
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one of us |
That's what I figured but above Vol717 is using it for a scope with Talley bases. However, not much recoil with a .22. I have a mount called the m94 Perfect Adapter that utilizes the 2 holes on the side of an M94 receiver that mount a Lyman 66 type sight and allows mounting of a Red dot. The website didn't list it as working on Marlins because they're only about three or four years that Marlin had receiver sites and then went to drill and tapping the top. But it fits! | |||
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