I have glass bedded my share of Rem's and Win's and Savages. I was told when you glass a Ruger you must do it with the floorplate attached and the action screws installed. I would appreciate some input as I will be bedding a couple in the near future.
Thank you

snowwolfe pm sent

quote:

with the floorplate attached and the action screws installed

Thats pretty much how I bed any rifle.

You can use stockmakers screws, but I prefer the actual action screws.

-Spencer

Glass bedding is for rifles.....not Rugers.

I know they are a good rifle but I suspect a good bedding job would even help them. Thank you. Can anyone offer some solid advice for undertaking the project?

I have glass bedded 10 or so ruger rifles haven't had any trouble doing it.

I like to bed the action and the frist 3 inchs of the barrel then free float the rest of the barrel.

If you are bedding a sty stock one must drill or cut locks in it to hold the bedding I drill holes at differant angles to do this I use a 1/8th in drill and put in 20 or so holes all over the bedding area. I even put some drill holes in wooden stocks I have never had the bedding come out.

I coat all metal parts with release agent screws and every thing a couple of times I have never struck a action. I put masking tape on the out side of the stock to stop excessive glass for sticking to it.

I then apply th glass to the stock screw the action in place with the action screws( I just never got around to buy gun smithing screws)

I wait for glass to harded enough so I can remove action from stock 6 to 10 hrs. (it is allways a relief when she pops out. I then leave sit for another 20 or so.

I one does not get enough glass do to the job the first time make sure one cleans all release agent off the glass allready in the action rough it up. repeat frist steps and fill in the voids.

I really find rugers no harder to glass bed then any other rifles.

I do Ruger M77MKII's in three steps. I haven't done any tang saftey Rugers yet.

I bed the front pad, the reciol lug and the first 1/2" of barrel with the rear tang setting on the original wood, and I put a cardboard shim under the barrel out near the forend tip. put the bottom metal on and tighten the rear screw but just thread the front one in so the glue doesn't fill the hole.

After the front bedding is set, I steel column bed the tang. This time the front screw gets torqued down, but the rear is just threaded in its hole.

The last step is to inlay and glass bed a nut in the stock for the front trigger guard screw to engage. Obiously the screw needs to be shortened.

I have found this results in a totally stress free bedding job, the glass set up around the steel without the steel being acted on by any more than two points of contact.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
Glass bedding is for rifles.....not Rugers.

What is you opp. of a rifle? I thought this was a bedding question?

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
Glass bedding is for rifles.....not Rugers.

What is you opp. of a rifle? I thought this was a bedding question?

It's OK...I was just being a smart ass.....I've never owned a Ruger worthy of Glass bedding.

I just picked up six Hawkeyes from 243 to 375 and plan to glass bed all six as the wood is exceptional in each and I do not want to risk it...plus I want to optimize accuracy and durability...these are certainly fine rifles...as nice or nicer than my Model 70s...(no heresy!)....

so, i'll tell you my tricks i use on mine, and tell you a warning...

the rugers has alot of angles and small spaces on them, and you will THINK you have it locked... you might need a brass drift, and it will be tight.

you bed these just like any other rifle, being certain to use ALOT of release agent.

trick 1: However, you need a piece of gorilla tape (the glue is just better) on the angled front of the recoil lug.

trick 2: put a light layer of either plumbers putty or floor paste wax in the screw holes... also, fill the vent hole

trick 3: get a flux brush (small coarse bristles) and "paint" your bedding (marine tex gray) all around the the recoil lug and barrel/action shoulders .... then paint the stock in those tight areas, making certain you got it FILLED

bed the rest as normal, but use the actions screws to set... come by and back the screws off then on 1/2 a turn .. after 2-3 hours, you'll think its done. its not, and let set

remove as normal

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
Glass bedding is for rifles.....not Rugers.

What is you opp. of a rifle? I thought this was a bedding question?

It's OK...I was just being a smart ass.....I've never owned a Ruger worthy of Glass bedding.

whooooooooooo........
worthy?
what exactly makes one worthy?

quote:

I've never owned a Ruger worthy of Glass bedding.

guess you'll just have to go out and buy some more rugers
otherwise - just what rusty said

Rusty & Jeffeosso both are describing pretty close to what I've done. I had a .338WM bedded prof and it cloverleafs with hunting ammo. I've done three other tang safety Rugers'and every one will shoot something.

As far as rugers being worthy at least they're still in production (m70 isn't) and they don't have to get someone else to build their guns for them (Remington Weatherby Browning Others)

I had my VT glass bedded when rebarreling it with a Lothar Walther .308 SS Match. It now shoots hole in hole.

I decided not to bed the three Ruger 77's I have. But, I did make sure the barrels are all free floating. I did trigger jobs on all of them, lapped the barrels, and left the tweeking at that. All three rifles are very accurate. My 77 in 257 Roberts is far more accurate than I had hoped for. The first three shots out of the rifle at 100 yards had two bullets touching, with the third 9/16" to the left using a 4x scope.
I really don't think I need to glass bed any of them.
YMMV,

Don