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IS THERE ANY WAY TO MAKE A mark X bolt look halfway decent or must it be cut off and a new one welded on?. i remember those Jerome Glimm bolts that were being sold in Rifle magazine. Anybody else selling something like them today? KJK | ||
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Beauty is in the eye of the beholder… Shoot Safe, Mike NRA Endowment Member | |||
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I take it you mean the Zastava action. I've got one and think it looks fine, though the trigger guard could be rounded off a bit. I've heard that action is the true successor to the old, respected, FN Mauser, since it is made with the same tooling. Atkinson reckons the metalurgy is better than FN's was. | |||
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I can't see much difference between my Zastavas and FNs bolt handles. Obviously you can get a new handle welded on if you don't like the one it came with. Duane Wiebe makes a really nice replacement. "For they have sown the wind, and they shall reap the whirlwind..." Hosea 8:7 | |||
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FN factory bolt, acetylene torch and gentle persuasion. | |||
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NICE! KJK | |||
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great work. What finish is that? | |||
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Daly's products with alkanet tint. | |||
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FN commercial I’ve just done. | |||
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Proper in all respects. Better replaced than repositioned with a hammer! | |||
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All FN bolts I have are like this one: swept back. And all MKXs I have are the same. What does yours look like? Come over and I will show you a few. Dozen | |||
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Here is my favorite bolt handle: | |||
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Sorry Kolo-Pan, but when I was a boy the thing you are apparently concerned about was indeed called a bolt handle (the term finally brought to this thread by hogfarmer and dpcd). That FN style was thought the bee's knees in those days, swept back for quicker recycling. They had the same chequered flats underneath as the Zastava and I wouldn't change it for anything unless it whacked my finger under recoil, and if the M17's doesn't do that, I doubt the short FN one would. | |||
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KP; are you wanting an Oberndorf handle like this? | |||
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KJK | |||
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That is not an FN or MKX handle. The receiver is a WaA63, Kar98k. | |||
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Badly mis-drilled G33/40 actually. Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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[/QUOTE]Badly mis-drilled G33/40 actually.[/QUOTE] Did you mean the front receiver ring is badly mis-drilled? I agree this is a G33/40. BB | |||
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OMG: shoot me now!. Of course it is a 33-40; I just saw the WaA 63 and immediately knew that was Mauser. I didn't even look at the receiver, OR remember that the WaffenAmpt unit 63 was also at BRNO. I am mortified at this overlook, and will be suitably chastised for the blunder. I am writing my official letter of reprimand now and a copy will be placed in my personnel file. I do know what a 33-40 is; I have 4 of them. | |||
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now that’s a bolt handle! Can’t beat an Oberndorf style… beautiful work | |||
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sorry I meant how did you finish the metalwork? Stock looks very good though | |||
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Sorry, rust blue. | |||
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Yes, the G.33/40 receiver has been "mis-drilled" through the front ring locking lug. But not by me. I purchased it that way and have shot the gun (8mm Mauser) many times with no ill effects that I can see. I seem to recall that I have read on this board of other folks who have welded similar errant holes with a micro welder, re-drilled, and welded a square bridge over the wrong hole. But I am not a welder so its for sale as a parts gun. Who knows, there may be a G.33/40 out there in need of a new bolt or other parts. KJK | |||
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I have an M98 that has had the same past with someone drilling through the front face of the locking surface, wondering also what the solution might be. BB | |||
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I've had ones like that; they make good trot line sinkers. A Moron drilled the hole so as to cut a half moon into the receiver locking surface. I suppose I could squeeze my TIG gun into there and re machine it, then have it re heat treated... | |||
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Morons seem to gravitate to guns..like a magnet! A trip to the range will prove this beyond all doubt. No wonder the anti gun sentiment, maybe we deserve it. | |||
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Everyone's a gunsmith, just ask 'um! They were born knowing everything about guns, and to suggest anything else,,,, well, you may as well question their manhood! | |||
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Assuming it is just a half of a #6 hole, it will be ok to shoot with standard US 8mm ammo, which is low pressure anyway. Remember that the bolt itself is notched in the same place, so you aren't really losing much locking surface area. But the real point is that it is very amateur work and should not have happened. | |||
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If done properly, a blind hole drilled & tapped in the lug area is not a drama really. Would I do it? No, but I’ve seen quite a few done like this and also one 7x64 small ring drilled right through with no ill affects. Drilling through and across the face of the pocket is a big no no of course. As Tom pointed out the top bolt lug is split and plenty of actions came from the factory with the ring notched for the ‘06, ot to mention thousands of 1903 Turks generously clearanced and still going strong. | |||
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The other side of the 333/40 I wonder if that trigger would work on my Mark X action? KJK | |||
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Yes it will. Just make Sure the sear has enough clearance to drop completely. | |||
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I love the G33-40, my favorite action with about any caliber up to 30-07 case, not my choice for belted cases, did work great for the 9,3x62, 7x57 switch barrel.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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Metal, is that lower lug abutment the way the usually look at 6 o'clock? It doesn't look as though it would contact the lug, even at the bottom. | |||
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It’s a 375H&H action, scary amount of metal removed but it’s been done to death over the years. Just trying to make the point that the holy grail G33/40 action with one stray hole drilled in it is not necessarily trashed. I’d build a rifle on it before a Mark X. Kolo, check whats going on with that hole, you might be surprised. If you don’t want the action I’ll have it. | |||
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Samberman, I see the bevel you are looking at. There is no right lug contact at 6 o'clock. The right lug is at the 3 o'clock position when bolt is in the closed position. Does that answer your question?
Life itself is a gift. Live it up if you can. | |||
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At battery, the right lug should be at six and the left at 12. The bevel seen in the cutaway may be the one that cams the right lug into its seat (not visible in the photo).
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Ok, yes, the right lug contacts the receiver lower abutment, and is at 6 o'clock. (There is only air contact at 3 o'clock).The little bevel in the picture is probably an optical illusion, or as stated, part of the cam surface. As for KP's 33-40, it will be fine for any non magnum no matter where the hole is drilled, as I said above. As for those who butchered intact G33-40s in the past, you realize that you instantly converted a highly collectable military rifle, worth $2500, into a $400 action. But back then, those guys were not thinking ahead. | |||
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Cocked that up, the photo I posted was a std action, here is the H&H. | |||
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I have been asked "how much" for the barreled action. The professionally done bolt handle job is worth $200 and the trigger $50. I am told that even as a parts gun its worth $500, but Its a useable action. Somebody wants it they can have it for $550 plus a few bucks for shipping. . KJK | |||
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