A while back a bought a rifle for the specific purpose of learning on. It was a savage 110 in 7mm. I got a cheap barrel kit from midway as well as magazine and mag follower all in 458 win mag.
I have some feed problems. Which is fine because that's how I learn.

I'm going to list those problems, but really I would prefer a video or book to making you guys frustrated with me.

If I load the mag and cycle the bolt aggressively it will feed with much noise.
If I work it slow,the belt of the shell will get stuck in the front of the mag lips as the nose of the bullet tries to get into the chamber.
Sometimes the base of the shell won't come up quite high enough for the bolt to catch it, and the bolt will just pass over the top of the shell. The spring seems very weak on the back end.

Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by frank4570:
If I load the mag and cycle the bolt aggressively it will feed with much noise.

If you think that is noisy, wait until you touch it off.

I don't know of a book that can teach a person how to correct feeding issues per se, as there are just too many things that can be involved.

Assuming though that you have the correct magazine components, the best way to learn is by feeding dummies through the action while watching what each round does as you advance the bolt, then, making subtle corrections to the magazine when you encounter a problem. Start your trouble shooting with known parts. If in doubt, get a new mag spring to go with the new box and follower, first.

One thing to keep in mind is, unlike a CRF, the Savage 110 is a push feed, and without a claw extractor to capture and control the round, the push feed requires that the round pop up, free of the magazine, in contact with the nose of the bolt just as the bullet begins to enter the chamber, otherwise it can jam. The point at which the round is released from the magazine is referred to as feed lip timing. Too early of a release and you have a loose round that is anything but controlled, too late of timing and the case head will slip below the nose of the bolt causing the bolt to over ride the case and jamming.

Also, a round that is fed too slow can pop loose and get off track in a hurry causing all kinds of angst, so with a push feed, a steady, forward motion is necessary to ensure proper feeding.

FWIW, go up to the sticky called "making it feed" to see if there is something in there that might help you. Good luck.

Thanks for the help.

I've ordered a new mag spring. I'll see if that improves things.

I'll start reading up on feed lip timing. That is clearly a problem, but I won't do anything with it until I have the new spring installed.

I thought Duane Wiebes instructions at the top of this forum to be as complete as any I have seen.

Duane is planning on publishing a making it feed book - see links above

I'll read through it again. Maybe I missed what I was looking for.

I have now replaced the mag spring with a new one. This one is stronger. But still, sometimes the base of the shell will fail to come all the way up to the feed lips, and the bolt will slide over the top of it failing to push it forward.

Also, when fed slowly the rear end of the shell will fail to pop free of the feed rails as the nose of the bullet goes into the chamber and a jamb results. I understand I need to set the timing. Do I do this by bending the feed lips or by removing metal. I guess I've picked a good rifle to learn on in that if I mess it up I can just buy a new magazine.

Think of it this way, the forward portion of the feed lips, or rails, are acting as a pivot point. As the round is pushed forward and the nose of the round engages the feed ramp, it is cammed upward which tips the back of the cartridge down. Either the rails need to be opened up rearward, or widened in general. I would follow the directions in Duanes post and go slow.