Got to put pad on a MPI with the foam fill in the butt.

How do I attach a butt pad. The butt is level full of foam.

I got the foam in the barrel channel shaped and forearm

shaped for the heavy 585H barrel Ed

I've done it two ways. One make a could screw in pins and turn them into the base from the rear the drill holes from them in the foam. Epoxy the pad on a sand to fit. Or I have installed a couple dowels in the epoxy then attached the pad with screws into the dowels.

The foam won't hold regular screws, right, not even real long ones.

So should I epoxy in wood pieces to driil screw holes in?

Can epoxy hold the dowels down into the foam ok?

How long of dowels.

Another here suggested than I tap the end of big diameter course thread

lag screws, for the screws that hold pad on, and drill and screw

them, the lags, into the foam lined up with pad screw spacing. I need weight

and that would add some. Would the foam hold them.Ed

In a high tech specialties stock I once just cleaned out the foam an inch deep and epoxied a fitted wood plate in the hole, then mounted as normal. Since that time, I just degrease well and epoxy the pad directly on the end...works well.

The lag screw is basically what I was talking about as my first option. You aren't chinning yourself. You just need it to hold the pad. Don't rely only on the chemical bond. Enlarge the hole at the bottom to give you a physical bod as well. Dowels don't have to be that deep.

Or as matt said remove the foam and epoxy in a piece of wood.

I have used contact cement but I prefer scooping out about 1/2" of foam and epoxy in a piece of wood I shape to fit the space closely.

Removing some foam and epoxying in a fitted piece
of wood sounds easiest. I got a lot of old smaller butt stock
pieces, cut section out of one to go inside the MPI butt which is
very large. Would take minimum of shaping.

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Ed

quote:

Originally posted by matt salm:
In a high tech specialties stock I once just cleaned out the foam an inch deep and epoxied a fitted wood plate in the hole, then mounted as normal. Since that time, I just degrease well and epoxy the pad directly on the end...works well.

+1

Make sure you have a suitable clamp and glue that sucker on! Sometimes I shape it before I glue it....sometimes after....depends on how I feel.

i THINK you really don't want to leave ANY wood "proud" of the stock ... the pad would then pound the wood, with all the recoil on the glue/epoxy, rather than bearing on the stock ..

Therefore, when I do this, I sink the wood about 1/16 into the stock... the wood is there to hold the pad in place, not to take a direct pounding .. i know it can't be eliminated, but the stock should be the primary bearing surface between stock and pad,

besides, it will look better

Hey I'm getting lazy in my old age. Next one I'm going to try with only epoxy. No pins.

Ive glued hundreds of them directly to the foam. I do a fresh squaring grind with a 100 wt belt on both the stock and the pad base to remove any oil and rough up the surface. Then I clamp them solidly overnight with Devcon 5 minute epoxy or US Composites 635. They never come off. With the hollow stocks I glue in a block of wood and screw the pad to that.

In a similar vein, anyone ever added length to an HS stock? Have one that is 13 1/4 and would like to add 1/2 inch. Not sure how that works...

In a similar vein, anyone ever added length to an HS stock? Have one that is 13 1/4 and would like to add 1/2 inch. Not sure how that works...



Glue on some spacers and a pad, grind it down, mask off the pad and repaint the stock and spacers. Or mask the stock and lightly sand blast the pad and spacers after fitting.

I got it done, epoxied in in piece of old wood stock section,

about 1.75" long, and set it 1/16" below the stock edge;

I hollowed out little exrea below insert

and added little lead for needed weight.

and put on a real big pad .Ed

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
Hey I'm getting lazy in my old age. Next one I'm going to try with only epoxy. No pins.

This has worked for me on multiple synthetic stocks. I couldn't separate the pad from the stock if I tried and I use a minimum of epoxy being weight sensitive on some projects. Hollow stocks I fill with foam in a spray can then epoxy the pad in place.

Yep that is me old "belt and suspenders".

Too many years of thinking if a 1/4 bolt will work a 5/16 would be better.

Heck I have a couple wood stocks with the pad epoxied on with pins. Might need to use them as a pry bar.

I used Acraglas gel on my High Tech (foam filled) I finished for my M77 Whelen. Nothing special done to the stock. This was 14 years ago and zero problems.

Back when I messed with fiberglas stocks the stock mfr recommended that the foam be removed along the inside of the glass shell at the butt to form a groove 1/4" wide and 1/4"-3/8" deep. Mix up enough epoxy gel to fill the groove and cover the foam, clamp the pad to it overnight and grind.