Well I looked over my CZ 550 stock today and oh the joys of buying 2nd and 3rd hand used guns over the internet.


(between the mag box and trigger)



What recommendations do you have to cure these two problems?
I've already ordered two additional crossbolts from CZ.

Thanks

And another spot, in front of the mag box.

I've yet to repair the crack thru the webbing of my stock. But I plan to relieve it and force epoxy into the crack. Epoxy in a crossbolt w/ recessed heads and epoxy over the heads. It gives the appearance of having ebony plugs.

I'd suggest you ensure your barreled action is properly bedded so it fits solid inside the inletting. I'd make sure the action screws do not touch the inside of the escruscions (or pillars if you install them). and I'd make sure the tang is relieved around it's outermost rear edge.

If your action fits loose it will get a running start before slamming the stock. Forces from the recoil push the area of the mag box outward splitting the thin area of the webbing. If the action screws and or the back edge of the tang contact, they act like a wood splitting maul.

quote:

Originally posted by BigBores:
And another spot, in front of the mag box.

If it were mine I would use one or two hack saw blades to open up the cracks so you can get some epoxy to fill them completely. Then after that has set up install the crossbolts. Unless the stock is spread apart so much that it needs to be squeezed back to gether a bit. If the piece at the tang is loose, remove and epoxy back in place. If just a crack, fill with epoxy, sand and refinish.
You didn't say what caliber you have, but you might move that rear pillar out of the way and go ahead and pin the wrist while you have the epoxy out.
Dick

acreGLASS (hot.. like 90deg or more) and then crossbolts
jeffe

Mix up some ACRAGLASS and spread it over the crack. Then use an air compressor to "blow" the ACRAGLASS into the cracks. Have used this method for over 20 years (an old time gunsmith taught me) and it has never failed. You can very carefully spread the wood to gain more access, but isn't usually necessary. One warning, use low pressure to begin with and work up to what works. Practice on something besides your rifle first. Take it from me, air at 150psi can really spray ACRAGLASS all over the place.....don't ask.....I learned my lesson a long time ago.

I have repaired several stocks by heating stock with a heat
gun or hair dryer, then using a thin epoxy and covering with a non stick saran wrap or similar material, as the wood cools it sucks the epoxy into the crack.

Like congomike I have used air with good effect on thined acraglas.
Cross pinning with A.G it will add strength also.

This doesn't look too bad but I would bed it though.

Don

I have done this for a buddy, but only once, so I am no expert.

Wax the entire outer surface of the stock thickly with Johnson's paste wax to make any prints/spills easy to clean.

I would repair both cracks at the same time, and prior to crossbolting.

Have the mag well wedged open slightly to spread the cracks.

Take modelling clay and make two dams that let you apply suction to one side of each crack with the shop vac.

Warm the epoxy components (using the thinnest you've got), then mix. Apply the vacuum to the bottom side of the crack and the 'glass to the other sides. Wear disposable rubber gloves and use your fingers to seal the side of the crack to make the suction work around all sides. You may have to use Saran wrap on the sides. Repeat for the other crack.

Let it set for several days before adding the crossbolts.

It will be stronger than new.

I have no advice for the tang area. All my attempts at cosmetic repairs have been moderate to severe failures.

After it is glued back together do a proper bedding job as this is probably why it failed in the first place.