As I understand it, the color one achieves during nitre blueing varies W/the temperature.

It seems to have a similar relationship to the color one gets W/different tempering temperates, straw, vermilion, blue, etc.

I would like to experiment W/small parts on the bolt/action/bottom metal, the shroud, extractor, bolt release, etc.

It would seem that the lower nitre blueing temperatures, if they corrospond to tempering coloring, would result in the straw color & would be less likely to draw out too much hardness. That might be appropriate for parts such as the cocking piece, extractor, & bolt stop spring.

Parts like the bolt shroud, 3-pos safety lever & floor plate release lever could be done @ higher temperatures W/a different, contrasting color such as the cobalt blue people speak of.

Vermilion, if that is possible, might look good on some small parts also.

Since I am using a Lee "Production Pot" W/variable, controlable heat W/a digital multimeter/thermocouple probe to moniter the heat, I think it would be possible to experiment trying to get the different colors.

Am I on the right track as far as the color/temperature relationship?

Can anyone give me the temperture/color values?

Can I use a tempering color/temperature chart as a guide?

BTW; MY shipment of 5# OF NITRE BLUEING SALTS has come in @ the local hardware store. I'll be picking it up in the A.M.

http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/11.htm

Try that
But I wouldn't blue a spring the high temp may foul up the tempering of the spring

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/11.htm

Try that
But I wouldn't blue a spring the high temp may foul up the tempering of the spring

I was thinking of just bringing the bolt release spring, extractor & cocking piece up to yellow or straw color.

That should not take out too much "spring" or hardness in the case of the cocking piece.

I am not a bluer, but I have had many guns/gun parts reblued and watched/talked with the bluer. I think the only color variations will be plum (ugly and rookie looking), blue, and then deep blue/black.

ETA: These color variations are made with like 2 degrees difference between one and other. Some guys vary the temp with the burner and some by adding more salts.

quote:

Originally posted by wildcat junkie:

quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/11.htm

Try that
But I wouldn't blue a spring the high temp may foul up the tempering of the spring

I was thinking of just bringing the bolt release spring, extractor & cocking piece up to yellow or straw color.

That should not take out too much "spring" or hardness in the case of the cocking piece.

Niter blueing is not the same as Hot Salts.

Niter blueing is the same as "drawing back" a part as in the tempering process.

The only reason Potassium Nitrate is used is it remains liquid through the temperature window need to produce these colors. Potassium Nitrate dose noting to the steel chemically

An wildcat I miss read your post. The bolt stop spring could be brought up to full blue @ about 550 degrees and not hurt anything. Just don't quench it after ward. I was thinking coil spring for some reason and that would be a bad idea in Niter salts