THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
First bedding job
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
Picture of Harold R. Stephens
posted
Well I din't create a mechanical lock and the barrel and action came lose from the stock. I thought that I had epoxyed the tang bolt to the trigger gaurd, started to drill out the factory bolt and I guess I heated up the bolt enough with the dull bit that I was able to back the bolt out. now I need to replace the bolt. It was not the prettyest job and I could have used just A little more epoxy up front, but for my first try I think was a simi sucess. It diffently took the slack out of the gun moving forward and back. This should help on my moving POI.

When I do my next bedding job I will fill in the little voids I had on this try. I just so glad that I did not glue the action to the stock!!!

Acraglass is what I used. I think a gel would be nicer to use. I think that that would help me judge how muck I need on the sides.


Founding member of the 7MM STW club

Member of the Texas Cull Hunters Association
 
Posts: 512 | Location: Granbury, Texas | Registered: 23 January 2007Reply With Quote
Moderator
Picture of jeffeosso
posted Hide Post
good on you....
and now that you have used acra glas, and have a chance to try the gel, you'll never look back..


marine tex gray is also RELLY good

jeffe


opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club

Information on Ammoguide about
the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR
What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR.
476AR,
http://www.weaponsmith.com
 
Posts: 39930 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Harold R. Stephens
posted Hide Post
Wow, I really should have proofed my post first. Sorry for the spelling and grammer.


Founding member of the 7MM STW club

Member of the Texas Cull Hunters Association
 
Posts: 512 | Location: Granbury, Texas | Registered: 23 January 2007Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ramrod340
posted Hide Post
While I would love to say I never stuck one together my mother always told me not to lie.

I will say that a gel product is a lot eaiser to work with and remember. The RELEASE AGENT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND!


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of D Humbarger
posted Hide Post
The first time is always a bit scary. Always pay attention to the little details.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Harrold, good for you. I done my first recoil lug and couple of inches of the barrel channel last spring an talk about staying "keyed" and jacked up. That accraglass is something else. Now I use Marine-Tex. I am still getting acquainted with the modeling clay and "exactly" where to use it to do the action but I am getting there.

good job!
 
Posts: 1019 | Location: foothills of the Brooks Range | Registered: 01 April 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Congratulations on not making your rifle one piece. The Acraglas Gel is easy to work with but you still need to be careful and get the release agent everywhere it needs to be and fill little ports with modeling clay.
You can take a dremel with a little router bit and clean up what you have and do it again if you like with gel just for practice and filling voids. Always give the bolts a good coat of release agent and they will not stick.
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: Florida | Registered: 16 December 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Harold R. Stephens
posted Hide Post
Before I actually applied the epoxy, I made darn sure the relaease agent was everywhere I did not want epoxy to stick. Then I sprayed PAM on and let dry just to be on the safe side. I fitted and refitted the stock numerous times before i even opened the epoxy. Finnally I mixed the 1 ounce they recommended(Really did not need that much. Must find some smaller measuring device because that was such a waste.)applied to stock, screwed everything together and just had to leave it alone. Leaving it alone and not pulling it apart before it was set and ready was the hardest part for me. Like I said, it is not the prettiest job ever done, but I am proud just the same.


Founding member of the 7MM STW club

Member of the Texas Cull Hunters Association
 
Posts: 512 | Location: Granbury, Texas | Registered: 23 January 2007Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ramrod340
posted Hide Post
Harold, Send me an email to ramrod340@hotmail.com. I'll send you a good article on bedding. I don't use screws anymore. Less things to get stuck.

Where in Katy? I'm just south of 10 on Fry.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of Harold R. Stephens
posted Hide Post
Katyland Drive by Rhoades Stadium. Old Katyland subdivision.

E-mail sent


Founding member of the 7MM STW club

Member of the Texas Cull Hunters Association
 
Posts: 512 | Location: Granbury, Texas | Registered: 23 January 2007Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Just remember that stopping the action from moving in the stock is the objective and not cosmetics. If you do another or redo this one pick up a dremel with the flexible shaft and get a couple of small 1/8 router bits and have fun.
Another tip is to put electrical tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug. This makes it real easy to take apart.
Another tip is to go to Walmart and get a set of plastic measuring spoons and just use the teaspoon or half teaspoon for small stuff.
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: Florida | Registered: 16 December 2004Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of PWS
posted Hide Post
Another tip would be to be sure to let aerosol release agents dry before putting things together. Ask me how I figured that out Big Grin Drillpress here we come!
 
Posts: 1142 | Location: Kodiak | Registered: 01 February 2005Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Put modeling clay in the bolt lug recess and make a hole for the front guard screw to pass.After you have coated the guard screws with release agent,coat them with grease.Use electric tape covered with release agent on the sides of the recoil lug.Use masking tape to protect wood and use modeling clay to prtotec trigger.Don't use too much bedding in the recoil lug recess and barrel channel(fill lug recess half way).I like glass bed because it sticks like crazy and becomes extremely hard when it sets.
 
Posts: 11651 | Location: Montreal | Registered: 07 November 2002Reply With Quote
one of us
posted Hide Post
Now that you have all these great tips make sure you read the directions carefully and you should do just fine. One more thing. Don't get in a rush.
It gets easy after a dozen or so.
 
Posts: 1159 | Location: Florida | Registered: 16 December 2004Reply With Quote
new member
posted Hide Post
Harold,

Don't be too upset about the excess bedding compound you wasted. Coming from one with experience, I can assure you it is far worse to find you don't have ENOUGH bedding and then have to pull the rifle, quickly clean off all the mess, mix more epoxy, and do it a second time BEFORE the gel begins to harden... Frowner

Gudlif
 
Posts: 14 | Registered: 25 January 2007Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia