How difficult is this process? Can it be managed by non-professionals with the availble tools (Midway)? I've heard they use some sort of loctite on the threads?

I have a couple of actions that I'd like to strip so I can Fleabay the stuff I don't plan on using, but I don't want to muck up perfectly good actions in the process.

Thanks,

SBB

It depends on how much of a non-professional you are. It can either be easy or difficult. The tools sold through Midway and Brownells that are Remington 700 specific should do the job. The thing that "usually" separates the pros from the non-pros in this particular area is in the care that is taken to protect the finish of the various pieces as they are dismantled.

The sign of a true craftsman is in the lack of tool marks on a customers firearm. Wrap the barrel to protect the finish from scratches as you place it in the vise and tape the action to protect it from damage from the action wrench. Good luck!

You can probably find a gunsmith that will break them all down at once for less than the cost of tools. Unless of course, your a tool junkie like some of the rest of us.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
a tool junkie

Guilty as charged!!


it will cost you about 120 bucks for action wrnechs and a barrel vise...

couple? that 2-3, or 5-10? for the "Risk" of damaging your first couple, I would offer a smith a six pack and a c-note!

jeffe

I have found that wraping the barrel is iffy at best. Tight barrels will spin and mar even if wraped. I use rosin on the barrel and clamp in a normal barrel vise as tight as I can get it. Put a little heat on the action above the threads and put a cheater bar on your action wrench cause you will need it anyway and turn the action off the barrel. When it breaks free you will think you have just broke something. Don't worry it was just the threads. I'm no pro like some here but this works for me. Rosin is essential.

I have taken several M-700's apart and a little expansion on what Pegleg wrote is in order. Taping usually won't work because the tape isn't as strong as the bond between the action and the threads. Oak blocks and lots of rosin in a GOOD barrel vise and I would suggest using a propane torch to heat the action around the threads. It's pretty hard to do damage to the heat treat of the action with a propane torch but even at that you need to be pretty careful. With the proper action wrench it's a job just about any moderately skilled person can accomplish. But if you want to mail the actions to me along with a hundred bucks I'll turn them around for you in one day. But it's kinda fun to do some of this stuff your self.

Bob Bon

Good advice from all the above but one thing that no one has mentioned - you need a very stout work bench or pedestal to mount the barrel vise on. Clamping the barrel vise to a workbench with C Clamps or holding it in a bench vise ain't going to do it if that Rem barrel is tight (and most are). You might find yourself picking up pieces of your little 4 inch bench vise if that's all you have. Most shops will have a pedestal that is set in concrete or bolted to a concrete floor. A worbench can work but it had better be a skookum one. JMHO

Ray

quote:

Originally posted by Pegleg:
I have found that wraping the barrel is iffy at best. Tight barrels will spin and mar even if wraped. I use rosin on the barrel and clamp in a normal barrel vise as tight as I can get it.

quote:

Originally posted by Shooter Boy:
I have taken several M-700's apart and a little expansion on what Pegleg wrote is in order. Taping usually won't work because the tape isn't as strong as the bond between the action and the threads.

Pegleg and Shooter boy, you wrap and tape the exposed areas of the barrel and action so that if you inadvertently bump them into something while you are placing them in position to be pulled, you won't damage the finish. The wrapping and taping isn't meant to hold the barrel, or, action while you actually apply the torque.

Reminds me of the Japanese shooters at the World Benchrest Championship in Ohio last year. Put the Midway barrel vise on and keep beating the vise on the edge of the table until if loosened.
Butch

Vice Table:

I followed the advice of Willis Fowler and built a table just for vices. The top is 24" X 60" and made of 1" plate steel. The legs are 2" X 2" .25" square tubing. Legs are attached with 2" X 2" .25" angle. The table is 48" tall with 4 4" steel caster wheels. The shelf at 16" from the floor is also 1" plate. I have 1 6" table vice on one end. It si set so it can face of the side or the end on it's own swivel base. On the oposite side in the table middle I have a 5" table vice that will swivel with a straight jaw vice and an pipe vice. The base will also swivel. On the oposite end from the 6" vice I have two Brownells barrel vices. One set horizontal and the other set vertical. I have a 6" machinest vice that can be used idependently floating on the table top. I have a Davidson universal alluminum barrel wrench that can be set up either bolted down or clamped to a table. The shelf holds all my barrel vice tooling, rosin, action wrenches etc. The vice table weighs over 1000 pounds. Even with 4" steel caster wheels it is a real job to roll it around on the concrete floor.

It is one of the most used pieces in my shop.
Longshot

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
Reminds me of the Japanese shooters at the World Benchrest Championship in Ohio last year. Put the Midway barrel vise on and keep beating the vise on the edge of the table until if loosened.
Butch

OUCH!

I bet that was a sight to see around a bunch of perfectionist gear junkies who tend to handle their stuff with kid gloves! Guys had to be cringing!

What's the chances of everything still being straight after an episode of that??

Or, if I was there, what would be the chances that they would've still beat me anyway?!?

Hey Butch- Did you get a look at their scope adjusting tool? Was that a three pound hammer?

Sorry for the late reply. I just got back from David Christman's shop. Picked up my new Lott and I am more than happy with it. I will take some photos tomorrow and try to find somebody to post them for me.
You are right, the Japanese are normally very careful with their equipment. I also saw them use a hammer to drive their cleaning rods through the barrels.
Butch