I picked up a nice cape gun with claw bases, but missing the scope and rings. I am going to try to fit new rings to it. Any tips, hints, information on landmines or a link to instructions would be appreciated.

Maybe it can help a little. German claw mounts and rings:

https://www.recknagel.de/pdfvi...atalog-2024-Nr12.pdf

Double claw I assume: these are all hand made and hand fitted; making new rings is a job that will take a thousand hours of milling, filing, and patience.
When I get an old German rifle with the scope missing, and claw bases, I immediately pawn it off on some unsuspecting buyer who thinks he is going to make new ones.
My tip; buy new bases and rings; from NECG. Who gets them from Recknagel, as Jiri posted.

If the rear base was screwed instead of sweated onto to rib I would remove the bases and replace them with pivot mounts. My plan is to buy the rings from NECG and then fit them to the gun. NECG has rudimentary instructions for how to do the job, but I was hoping for some additional guidance. I know that I can pay someone else around $1,000 to fit a set for me, but I am cheap, stubborn, and have the correct tools for the job. I would like to see if I have the talent to go with everything else.

Measure, remove everything that is keeping the claws from entering the base. Coat with layout dye; file, repeat. No easy way. Which is why it costs a $K to fit them.

I used to think that a lot of stoning was required by the gunsmith fitting a scope with claw mounts but now wonder if they came from the mount maker ready to go; that the 'smith's job was then to carefully line up the assembly in some sort of jig and fit and solder the base to the rifle.

I note that at least some of the bases have windage adjustment in fine dovetails, which might be used in addition to the large screws above the 'claws'.

Despite the original cost of buying/fitting claw mounts, it appears they don't have great residual value for later use - many of the great old scopes I've bought have come with the claws and bases on them, even those not soldered on to steel tubes.

So, I have a bag full of these things and some still attached to scopes but doubt they'll ever be used again.

The problem my friends and I have had is finding front and rear claws and bases with heights to match on the rifles we have. Many of the bases are shaped to fit between the barrels of double rifles, presumably after sections are removed from the quarter-rib.

Though I am a big believer in paying a gunsmith to fit scopes properly, I think the Germans over-egged their gravy train with this stuff, in a way encouraging the American DIY decadence.

The most obvious example of this was their soldering claws to steel scopes rather than using full rings (except for .22Rf). In that they had to completely strip the scope, letting go of any nitrogen or special dry air.

one thing I never thought about with claw mounts, the fact that the bell of the scope may interfere with lifting the scope off. straight tube is probably not a problem.

I've seen claw rings on the bell of large scopes but the front was barrel mounted .

These answers remind me of the kid who asked the older gentleman how to get to Carnegie Hall. The gentleman's answer; practice, practice, practice! Accurate, without actually answering the question that was really asked.

Same as making a stock; you carve away everything that doesn't look like a stock. Very easy.

quote:

Originally posted by loud-n-boomer:
These answers remind me of the kid who asked the older gentleman how to get to Carnegie Hall. The gentleman's answer; practice, practice, practice! Accurate, without actually answering the question that was really asked.

Hahaha!

I can’t help but think of the famous answer given by the Down-east Yankee when asked for directions:

“You can’t get theyah from heeyah.“

I think we did answer the question more-or-less, loud-n-boomer.

My feeling is that unless the base and claws come from the same maker as a set, you'll finish up in the situation dpcd laid out. I have found that random claws and bases sometimes do fit tightly but front ones have never been compatible with the rear ones and scopes/rifles I've got.

As richj said, the front claws almost always have to be set near the objective in order to hinge them on and off - and finding attachments that work there add to the issue.

Even getting dovetails that fit the rails of dural scopes can be fun. Fifty years ago the rails were mostly about 14mm (o/s) but could vary. Nowadays some scope makers use different rail designs. European gunsmiths have thought nothing of drilling and cutting into the rails to get them to fit, which does not help scope residual values, a problem unless you just collect them in a box for curiosity value.

My fitter/turner buddy has fitted the odd German scope for another mate and me with extremely good results - but never reusing claw bases. I suspect that even if you sent the 'waeffen' to Waeffen-Frankonia they would want to remove your old bases and replace them with a new set to match new claws. Modern, constantly centred reticles should make this process much easier/cheaper but I suspect they would still charge $1000.

The front lock used to b a real bitch, but over the years, tolerances hae become tiohter and closer to where the base and rings come VERY tight but eseenially fitted.

Several ways to do the rear lock up but comes down to careful machining. First, center the cross hairs, then make the rear so scope is looking the same place as bore sigbhting with just a bit allowed for bullet drop on the heay stuff.

Now...the scope should fit with just a b it of upwards tension...Better described a a slight "pop up" when releasing the rear..but there must be zero movement upon locking up.

In my opnion, sill the very best of QD syatems WHEN DONE RIGHT. Each installation wll most likely be a "one off" The quote of " $1000.00" is not to be taken as accurate

The later "swing mounts" such as offered by EAW and Recknagel are a very reliable alternative and a bunch earier to install.

Thank you, Duane, that helps.

I understand that claw mounts are one-offs which is why I would start from a blank ring with no claw machined for the rear and the ring with matched base for the front.

Well..if you get a screw on (or sweat on)for rear base. it will of course, have a spring loaded lockup and you'll need to machine the ring to fit ...Guess you knew that?

Lee Le Bas in Minden just might have what you need

advice?
go slow.. it's WAY cheaper to spend a couple hours fitting than welding and shaping back.