Jeffe, there is more to the cutting method or madness than you think as far as a scraper cutting like a plane. When it is properly prepared, the burnishing tool produces a curl on the scraper that cuts almost parallel to the surface of the wood, it does not cut on the ninety degree edge of the steel. I will try to find something that describes it better.

BTW I still use sandpaper after I use the use a scraper when I am taking the varnish off. You will end up with small ridges of finish and at times most of them can be taken off. I just wet sand them off but the majority of the work is done with the scraper.

I think that too much has been made of the "rightness" of using one process over another. There are lots of methods that get us to the same place and whether feathering is needed or not is of no matter. The quality of the end product is what important.

Terry, great looking stock. Is that a BRNO I see? Nice work.

Chic,
morning!!
I agree that the scraper doesn't produce a cut OF 90, but it doesn't push (like a snowplow, for example) a curl unless the edge is at or nearly square relative to the surface, right? I've tried em, and can make some pretty work... and some pretty big messes, but i am getting better!!

I agree that too much is made of the "rightness" of one method or the other. I remember a discussion we had some time about about persons that "refused to own a machine turned stock" when it was hand finished, insisting that a carved by hand stock was "better"

Terry,
can you imagine the work that it took to finish that little block? shesh, negative bevel, all edges bent, both long and short axis are arches.... and all corners are SHARP... it's like an inlay that can not be changed.. and did i mention it's more than 3/8 of an inch DEEP on that?? It's not 22ga sheet or even 16 ga, like so many new ornaments.

Take the stock out on a cloudy day, and find a good strong shadow under a live oak or a magnolia, where the light 5 feet away is VERY bright, and the shadow has a good line, and take some pictures. That should help the red

jeffe

TC1, I like the bone black treatment. It gave that stock a unique character. I like flaco's stock too, FWIW.

Hey Chic, Yea it's a BRNO 21H. When I bought the rifle the stock had been cut, a recoil pad added and the bolt handle had been replaced. Who ever did the work did a nice job but, since the original configuration was gone and the finish was gone in a couple of spots. I figured it was ok to take "artistic licence" to it. I was after an English red color and I thought it would look kinda nice with a few of the parts color case hardened. I think I missed the color by a mile, but I like the way it turned out.

I took Jeffe's advice and snapped a few pics this morning while it was still cloudy. These represent more what it looks like in person.

Terry

Beautiful!

TC1 - you may have "missed the color by a mile"(I wouldn't know - it looks good to me), but you were right on about the color case hardening. Fantastic!

TC1 Is that trigger guard original on a 21H?

Or is it a add on? Is the trigger guard just cut off of a standard mauser bottom and a hole drilled and tapped for the front of the bow?

Is that bolt sleeve and safety original 21?

Looks nice.

It depends on the application:
for gunstocks I like to usr the old Herters French Red filler, stain,sealer, which is avalable also in clear, I have had good luck with Benchwood casey filler, and on other wood projects that do not require the excelance of finish I expect on a gun stock, what ever is avalable through Woodcrafters of a store like that. I often do not use a filler relieing on filling the pores with thin layers of finish sanded between the coats until the surface is level and then french or hand polishing to the final finish.
Some times I say to h-ll with it and just flow varnish on the project and can get a good enough finish that way. I do not do this with good wood stocks although my wife wants her furniture to have the same quality of finish that my guns have. I am not a woodworker or gumsmith, I just play one in my small shop.
Good hunting and stay cool It is 90/90 here. (90 degres and 90% humidity. Stocks do not dry in that kind of damp.
Judge Sharpe

Heat and humidity as Judgesharp stated come into play. Its hot and humid in my part of the country too and it makes things interesting at times. On the days the humidity drops the temp hits close to 100 finish seems to dry before you can get it rubbed on, other times it never dries, I use jap dry sometimes. But a guy's got to live somewhere I guess.

I agree on the staying cool part.

Gringo:
I hope that Emily does not do you too badly. We have been through several storms like that recently ( Ivan, Dennes, and others)
I have nat been to Corpus Christi in a lot of years but remember it findly
Good luck and stay dry
Bill Brower

Gee,

I go away for a week and all hell breaks loose.

What I can't believe is that so many folks waste their time finishing a stock. Worse yet, they sand the dang things!

quote:

Originally posted by GSP7:
TC1 Is that trigger guard original on a 21H?

Or is it a add on? Is the trigger guard just cut off of a standard mauser bottom and a hole drilled and tapped for the front of the bow?

Is that bolt sleeve and safety original 21?

Looks nice.

The trigger guard and sleeve are BRNO original. NEGC sells one that's a pretty good match if wanted to duplicate it.

Terry