Have one that needs the barrel replaced. Any recommendations for a 'smith who would be up to the task?

Do you have the barrel?

I don't have a replacement barrel as yet. I see there are some used ones on FleaBay.

I curious on how the barrel got ruined.

He may have loaned it to his brother-in-law.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:
I curious on how the barrel got ruined.

Probably best not to ask; you have to work at it to ruin one of these barrels.
Anyway, changing the barrel is child's play. All you need is a vise and a stick of wood. 3 feet long.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:
I curious on how the barrel got ruined.

The barrel broke off at the frame leaving the tenon in the frame. How/why I do not know. A buddy passed away a while back and his wife found the gun in a bag in the bottom of his safe. Other than that the gun is in very good condition and looks like it was well taken care of and not abused.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Probably best not to ask; you have to work at it to ruin one of these barrels.
Anyway, changing the barrel is child's play. All you need is a vise and a stick of wood. 3 feet long.

Thanks for the help. What kind of stick? Something like a 1x1 or a 3x3? Pine, redwood, walnut?

Because the barrel is broken of A stick well not help.

Other wise clamp barrel in vice put stick through frame.

Turn barrel off.

The hardest thing about replacing a revolver barrel is timing it.

I have done it.

Wasn't to bad

If you lucky the barrel times right up.

If not a washer or peening the barrel to allow it to tighten in time .

I prefer the washer.

The cylinder to barrel gap needs to be given consideration whenever a revolver barrel is changed out. I built a simple jig to be able to drive a revolver barrel between centers, so I could adjust the shoulder on the barrel to time the sights correctly. The length of the threaded portion of the barrel can then be adjusted for proper length and cylinder gap, and a new forcing cone cut to spec. When the barrel is set-back like this, the ejector rod then needs attention to, if there is a lock out there in the shroud that engages the rod.

Post a picture of the revolver so we can see exactly what happened. I can't fathom breaking a revolver barrel off at the frame.
The stick will be oak, ash, or hickory and has to fit through the frame, However, if you can't grab the barrel in a vise, you don't need the stick.
Picture.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Post a picture of the revolver so we can see exactly what happened. I can't fathom breaking a revolver barrel off at the frame.
The stick will be oak, ash, or hickory and has to fit through the frame, However, if you can't grab the barrel in a vise, you don't need the stick.
Picture.

I thought my description to be quite clear. However, if you (or anyone else) wants to send (PM) me a # I can text to I will send a picture.

Thanks.

"Broken off", does not give us a view of the location, length, or condition of the break, which might be important to determining the best way to remove the existing shank, whatever is left of it, and the condition of the frame at the shank area.
If you do not want to post a picture, that is your choice; just trying to help with getting it fixed.

Might be a rare case where an E-Z-Out would work.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
"Broken off", does not give us a view of the location, length, or condition of the break, which might be important to determining the best way to remove the existing shank, whatever is left of it, and the condition of the frame at the shank area.
If you do not want to post a picture, that is your choice; just trying to help with getting it fixed.

Send me a # and I will text pics to you. Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
Might be a rare case where an E-Z-Out would work.

I was thinking just that, myself

Got then tenon out with an easy out, very little effort required. Just waiting for the barrel.