quote:

Originally posted by kcstott:
I use a table saw with a fine tooth carbide blade. I cut a wedge out of wood to prop the stock up on as to be square with the world.
Lots of blue masking tape to protect everything.

I built my grinding fixture thanks to brownell's giving just about a blue print worth of dimensions on all their part and fixtures. I grind down with a disk grinder. Grit depends on the finish I need. 60 to 150 grit on the disk up to 400 on the polisher.

The B square jig is about the easiest to use but it requires a large disk grinder to work as the pad is way up in the air so a little 6 or 8 inch disk won't work. As my girl friend says "you need 10 inches or more to get the job done"

quote:

Originally posted by max(hm2):
here is how i do it:
i remove the old pad and drill out the holes for wood 3/8 dowel pins and epoxy them in place.

after glue has cured i use blue tape and determine how much of the stock has to come off and determine the pitch. i draw a line around the complete stock.

i put it in a jig i made to hold it still and put a new 32 tpi blade in the hacksaw. i then cut on the waste side of the line into the stock about half way. i flip the stock over and cut in to meet the original cut.

i then use a vertical belt sander to sand to the finished side of the line. mark the new pad hole location and install the pad. i scribe a line in the pad base with a very sharp pointed scribe around the stock. remove the pad and saturate the endgrain with polyurathane until it wont absorb any more. let it dry

i mount the pad on a b-square jig. i use a bright yellow carpenters crayon to fill in my scribed line so i can see it better. i grind almost to the line with 80 grit on my belt sander. i change to 120 grit and finish grind to just touch the yellow line.

i remove the pad from the jig and wet sand using 320 w/d paper on a sanding block with armorall as the lubricant to completely remove the yellow line.

mount the pad back onto the stock and you are done.