03 July 2010, 22:38
TrophyShotPrintsInstallation Technique [Recoil Pad]
I'd like to hear from some who would be willing to share their recoil pad installation technique(s)...
I need to cut LOP and install recoil pad on a few rifles...Wood Stock rifles....
What type of tools do you prefer using for each stage of the process...saws/tpi...belt-sander/palm-sander/grits?
Got any pictures to share...anybody have a tutorial to recommend?
03 July 2010, 22:49
WestpacI use a mitre saw with the finest carbide tipped finish blade I can afford. I tape the stock on the good side of the cut line and whack it in one smooth movement. I use an 8" disc sander and 80 grit , electro coated, resin bonded discs to cut and finish the pad.
I use the "B-Square" recoil pad jig.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewP...productNumber=556014Follow their instructions. Good luck!
03 July 2010, 23:11
TrophyShotPrintsWestpac....Thanks
I'm thinking of using a Kickeez recoil pad...
I've done three rifles so far...I've gotten progressively better
BUTT not PRIMO yet...
I really want this one to come out PERFECT...
Do you finish entirely on the jig or do you prefer FINISHING the recoil pad attached to stock?
Was thinking I may use the jig til I'm close then taping off stock and using fine paper/sanding block or palm-sander 150 grit?
BTW- Will a CHOP-SAW with a new, fine-toothed blade suffice?
What TPI would you recommend?
03 July 2010, 23:43
kcstottI use a table saw with a fine tooth carbide blade. I cut a wedge out of wood to prop the stock up on as to be square with the world.
Lots of blue masking tape to protect everything.
I built my grinding fixture thanks to brownell's giving just about a blue print worth of dimensions on all their part and fixtures. I grind down with a disk grinder. Grit depends on the finish I need. 60 to 150 grit on the disk up to 400 on the polisher.
The B square jig is about the easiest to use but it requires a large disk grinder to work as the pad is way up in the air so a little 6 or 8 inch disk won't work. As my girl friend says "you need 10 inches or more to get the job done"
04 July 2010, 02:25
max(hm2)here is how i do it:
i remove the old pad and drill out the holes for wood 3/8 dowel pins and epoxy them in place.
after glue has cured i use blue tape and determine how much of the stock has to come off and determine the pitch. i draw a line around the complete stock.
i put it in a jig i made to hold it still and put a new 32 tpi blade in the hacksaw. i then cut on the waste side of the line into the stock about half way. i flip the stock over and cut in to meet the original cut.
i then use a vertical belt sander to sand to the finished side of the line. mark the new pad hole location and install the pad. i scribe a line in the pad base with a very sharp pointed scribe around the stock. remove the pad and saturate the endgrain with polyurathane until it wont absorb any more. let it dry
i mount the pad on a b-square jig. i use a bright yellow carpenters crayon to fill in my scribed line so i can see it better. i grind almost to the line with 80 grit on my belt sander. i change to 120 grit and finish grind to just touch the yellow line.
i remove the pad from the jig and wet sand using 320 w/d paper on a sanding block with armorall as the lubricant to completely remove the yellow line.
mount the pad back onto the stock and you are done.
04 July 2010, 02:37
TrophyShotPrintsquote:
Originally posted by max(hm2):
here is how i do it:
i remove the old pad and drill out the holes for wood 3/8 dowel pins and epoxy them in place.
after glue has cured i use blue tape and determine how much of the stock has to come off and determine the pitch. i draw a line around the complete stock.
i put it in a jig i made to hold it still and put a new 32 tpi blade in the hacksaw. i then cut on the waste side of the line into the stock about half way. i flip the stock over and cut in to meet the original cut.
i then use a vertical belt sander to sand to the finished side of the line. mark the new pad hole location and install the pad. i scribe a line in the pad base with a very sharp pointed scribe around the stock. remove the pad and saturate the endgrain with polyurathane until it wont absorb any more. let it dry
i mount the pad on a b-square jig. i use a bright yellow carpenters crayon to fill in my scribed line so i can see it better. i grind almost to the line with 80 grit on my belt sander. i change to 120 grit and finish grind to just touch the yellow line.
i remove the pad from the jig and wet sand using 320 w/d paper on a sanding block with armorall as the lubricant to completely remove the yellow line.
mount the pad back onto the stock and you are done.
Thanks!
I just may have to go with the hacksaw true-up on belt sander...and thanks for the tip on the yellow crayon in the scribed line
