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Is it expected that the cost of having a custom rifle built would differ depending on what action is going to be used as a foundation? I would like to have a short-barreled, bolt action .358WIN built and am trying to decide what action to use as a starting point. I have a tang safety Ruger M77 and a pre-64 M70 that I could start with. It seems like the pre-64 M70 has the potential to be built into a "finer" rifle, but I'm not looking to have something on the order of the ACGG gun of the year built. For a rifle that will be used for hunting, is one of these actions a better choice than another and would one cost any more to build than the other (assuming similar work would be done on either)? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Bob | ||
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Bob, i will assume you actually mean "what will a good rebarrel to 358 mean, rather than having a custom gun built" assuming you keep the stock and either action is 308 or something close IT&D douglas barrel 150 they mount and blue it 250 add some remington take off sights 50 I would do the ruger in this case If you want to build a 358 on a pre-64, restock, rebarrel, rust blue, nice stock, good checkering.. it STARTS at 2500 jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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I will have over 3K in the model 70, I am building now when is done. My details are real close to Jeffe's list, slightly different details, Shilen match grade barrel, and blueprinted, in a very nice English Walnut blank, full wrap checkering, and engraved metal grip cap. I had set of Control Rings in my parts bin, so that wasn't added in, and that doesn't include scope. My mind isn't made up on that, maybe European this time around not a Leupold will see when I get there, what ever it is will fit on those low Conetrols mounts. Your choices are really unfair also, comparing a high dollar to a low dollar build. I would also build a full length case on the model 70, or at least a 57 family case. Don't see much reason put a 308 case in one, it isn't wrong but certainly not necessary either. | |||
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I have some 358's and I would rather have a 99 than any bolt action in that cartridge. Here is one for $850. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=40813889 Join the NRA | |||
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I'm with Savage99. Either buy or build the .358 on a savage 99. You should be able to buy one or build one under a grand. RE your original question: If I were going to spend some money on one of them I'd go with the winchester. The .358 however would be a better fit in a short action winchester so maybe you could trade into one to use as the basis. Weagle | |||
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Weagle, There are no short action pre 64 model 70's, there all one size...long. He would need a newer action. I can think of a couple of prefered actions for a 358. The new Winchester already mentioned. A G33/40, and Carl Gustaf or Husky 96's would be good choices. A whole lot easier route is go look through the Sarco mauser section, get a 9x57 in one of those Huskies, and spend a few hours and a few bucks cleaning it up. No need to drop big bucks a 358, and I doubt you can tell much difference between the 2 rounds. sarco's are complete rifles in the $300 ish range ( condition related). Another real nice 358 is the old Belgium Browning BLR's, those are a neat rifle. | |||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by schromf: Weagle, There are no short action pre 64 model 70's, there all one size...long. He would need a newer action.] Yes, sorry I should have been more specific. I was referring to one of the new model 70 classic short actions. They are bit longer than some of the short actions (ie remington) and are a perfect fit for the .358 especially if you want to load the round a little longer than factory specs. Weagle | |||
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Guys, the gentleman asked which of the ruger or m70 would cost more... not which is the best 358 (my mexican mauser with a 20" barrel answers that question ) for what it's worth, the 99 is sweet, the blr is sweet, but neither one is usually as accurate as a bolt gun.. This is the voice of "i have owned and shot them" not some projection from unfounded personal preference. I think i've owned all the commerical 358s, except the pre-64 featherweight and the MS, at one time or another, and have built 3 myself jeffe opinions vary band of bubbas and STC hunting Club Information on Ammoguide about the416AR, 458AR, 470AR, 500AR What is an AR round? Case Drawings 416-458-470AR and 500AR. 476AR, http://www.weaponsmith.com | |||
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As I said I prefer the 99F Savage if the cartridge is the 358 Win. Now if your going to hunt with one in South Dakota then perhaps a bolt rifle would be a good choice but here in the North East one has too look hard for a 125 yd clear shot. The 99 is slimmer to carry and faster to operate that any bolt action. It's just the right gun for the cartridge. The M88 Win was made in 358 too but it's heavier and not as easy or fast on the second shot. Sure one might give up 1/2 moa to a bolt but the 99's are plenty accurate. Of course it comes down to personal choice and I like bolts too but until you have carried a 99 you always going to be missing part of the lore of the true woods rifle. Here are the 358's that I am quite familar with. Join the NRA | |||
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I see that the 99 linked above on Gun Broker sold right off for the $850 asking price. Join the NRA | |||
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I like 358's. The top is a Montana 99 action with a Montana barrel, custom Serengeti laminated stock and Leupold VX-III scope. I have about $3500 in this. Very accurate. Model 88 win. Now this isn't a 358 but it's a kissing cousin. I had it rebored to a 338-08 and restocked with a Fajan semi-fancy walnut, then topped with anther Leupold. The rebore and stock cost about $350 Bottom is a Savage99 in 358. Other than mounting a Leupold on it and increasing the LOP with a recoil pad it's stock. This setup would sell for around $1000. Each rifle is capable of shooting about 1" groups at 100yds with the Savage being the least accurate but still able to do 1.5" groups all day. Which is my favorite ?, ask me in the morning when I'm headed out. As to the question, I'd do the Ruger if it was in a short action, no sence using a long action for a 358. | |||
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Can't argue about the great Savage 99. If I wanted a 358 in a bolt rifle, I'd go with a M-70 Classic "short action" (plentiful) or a Mexican Mauser. NRA Life Member, Band of Bubbas Charter Member, PGCA, DRSS. Shoot & hunt with vintage classics. | |||
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I would use the Ruger tang safety, and will do just that on a 358 Norma sometime in late 2006. Of course mine is a long action rifle, but use the Ruger. | |||
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Don't really know where everyone got off on Savage 99's when the original post asked about bolt guns, but since the thread as evolved to include them, John Barseness had a really great article on savage 99's in Rifle Magazine a couple of months ago. It includes some accurizing tips to make them shoot with most bolt guns. As for the original post, I would go with the ruger, and same the Model 70 for something fancier down the road. Matt Matt FISH!! Heed the words of Winston Smith in Orwell's 1984: "Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered. And the process is continuing day by day and minute by minute. History has stopped. Nothing exists except an endless present in which the Party is always right." | |||
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Nice looking M1999, jbmich. Mine's in storage while I'm back east for Christmas but I have pictures I'd like to post if I knew how. I have just a little more cash in mine. No real range results yet; it was always too windy to really get something good enough to show. | |||
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The 358 Win is a great mid range woods+ cartridge. 1)Ruger action would be way to go, and find your stock, which suits your needs (synthetic, laminate, low-mid high grade walnut etc). Stocks from simple (and good, not "cheapy") probably ranges from $125 - $300, and up from there. 2) barrel ~ $200 + fitting (action work?0 will be in $400-500 range. So what to do? Take this as free advice. I'm not a fan of ruger actions. I don't like the diagonal bedding system. They are strong, but they always feel "clunky" to me. This is personal preference-but they do indeed work and do the job for you for your project. Not sure what your budget is, so here's another angle. Any short action bolt will do the job for you (Ruger, Rem, Win, and don't forget Howa-a very nice action which beds exremely well due to flat bottom and integral recoil lug). How about a Cooper Model 22 action? You can buy a complete rifle for about $1000-$1300. Literally have all the work done, exept the rebarrel. Add the $200 for barrel, $100 for chambering. Action is pretty much trued, so maybe only facing front of receiver is needed as touch up-but betting you don't need it. You'll have a premo rifle for <$1500. You could then sell off the original Cooper barrel and recoup some money. Nice wood, quality metal work, and good resale value. 3) odd ball stuff: If you aren't set on a 358 Win per se, and just want a good woods thumper, you can get a Marlin 336C in 35 Rem, and have it rechambered for 356 Win for about $120 (check Marlinowners.com, 336 forum.) There's also the Browning BLR in 358 Win, which is a lever action bolt action rifle (for strength). Of course there is the Savage 99 in 358 Win. There are also some factory chambered Ruger 77's in 358 around. They command some collector premiums, but not bad. Should be under $1000-but at that rate, you could go the Cooper M22 route. Good thing about bolts and Marlins, you can remove the bolt and clean from breach. Can't do that with Browning BLR (easily) or Savage 99, or Win 94 big bore in 356 Win. Remington makes a custom shop gun on the model 7 in 35 Rem. It may get you close to what you want (for ~ $1200 +/-). I wish they made that rifle in 358 win. I've been thinking of such a project myself. I don't care if the gun is fancy, I just want solid. Stage 1 for me would be an early rem 700 adl (no alpha prefix, just numbers on serial number, an "early ie 1960's M700), and rebarrel to a 22" barrl. I'd then go for a synthetic aftermarket synthetic stock with at least pillar bedding, but aluminum bedding block preferred (ie HS). Mount a 4x Leupold on it with a Farrell picatinny base. Have a front sight, and Lyman model 75 easy detach reep peep sight ready to go. Probably looking at $1000 to spend+ base rifle (I have the scope and sights). Then again, I'll just wind up using my Marlin 336C in 35 Rem for the thick stuff (maybe my Marlin 1895 22" ballard rifled 45-70 for more thumb pending mood), or my 9.3x62 with 250 grainers for a little more range. It's a disease. It sure passes the time driving to and from work to come up with the current "ultimate rig." Good luck. It's fun to dream and plan. | |||
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