Picked up an 03 A3 Remington at the gunshow a week or so ago. Mostly as an action for a custom. Took it out to my smiths shop the other day, and he not suprisingly, forund a flaw I did not. The rifle has a nice Redfield reciever site, And the top rear of the reciever has been ground down so as not to interfere with the elevation travel of the peep. We discissed my choices such as a side mount, no way id keep the peep first. A scout scope witch is not so bad, or welding a pad onto the top where the rear scope mount would go. My preference is the last. Is it hard to do a good job of this ? I want to make real nice rifle out of this 03,A3
I plan on a rather mild mannerd cartridge but
is this a common practice ? once welded shaped and blued is it likly to come off ? I have faith in my smith , but i think he would farm aout the welding part of the job. can you encouage me without lying ? thanks ...tj3006

How good is your smith? Silver soldered would be sufficient in strength if done right. Welding would not be the way to go I don't think. The sidemount might be cheaper.

Red

If you have it welded be sure to have it heat treated. You will certainly take some of the hardness out of it or make it britle in spots.

I'm with Dago Red, solder it. It will be plenty strong and no risk to the action.

John

I’m confused...and that ain’t a lie!

Why do you have to weld something on the receiver in order to fit a scope base to it?

It’s pretty common practice to grind the rear receiver bridge down on 03A3’s to get rid of the dove tail mount for the factory sight. Is the area that was ground down so deep that it can’t be blended in and contoured to the rest of the bridge? If it’s going to be covered by a scope base anyway why not just fill it with epoxy and form it directly to the bottom of the scope base?

Maybe I’m just not understanding since I can’t see what you’re talking about.

The pad where the rear scope mount would go is to thin for the screws from the rear mount to get a good bite. ...tj3006

If he knows what he is doing, you can weld the rear bridge and no tworry about heat treating it. It won't weaken the action, as that part of the action is not taking the stress from firing. Just worry about th efront ring and you will be OK.

Personally, i would weld it, but that starts to get expensive if you are having to pay to have it done. It would be cheaper to find another action.

quote:

Originally posted by Thomas Jones:
The pad where the rear scope mount would go is to thin for the screws from the rear mount to get a good bite. ...tj3006

I just measured three different 1903’s (not A3’s) and the top rear bridge thickness averaged 0.074â€. Is yours thinner than that?

If it isn’t then two 6x48 or even 8x40 scope base screws would have enough threads in contact to sufficiently hold a rear scope base I would think.

sorry to say this, but i don't think your smith has your $$ in mind..

here's what ole jeffe would do
1: to use a scope.. get the right weavers for the springfield (the front's like an 11, the back i forget).. stick a scope on it... see how far off it is.. shim scope

2: (don't like shimmed scopes) . fine, same thing, shim read base...

3: (hate those?) fine, either make or order next size smaller (shorter) weaver bases...mill/file/sand to fit.


all aint lost, just need another persective on it...


btw, going CHEAP?? steelbed the rear higher.. it's work for years

jeffe

On Jeffes option 3 above, Seems they make some scope bases in blanks I think, basically finished on the top side, ready to mill the bottom side. I'm sure not every base is available this way but I know I have seen them before.

I wouldn;t weld on the reciever, your looking for trouble later, I also would also avoid the soldering, machining up a fitting part is the best option.

Ditto what jeff said and if you are worried about thread engagement of the base screws remember that the rule of thumb for steel on steel is thread engagement should approximate the major diameter of the screw being used...and that’s for one a one screw application.

A 6x48 screw has a major thread diameter of 0.138 so even a thin 1903 receiver bridge is within .005†of that...and you are using two screws. But if you’re still worried follow jeff’s advice about the epoxy and thread that also.

Thread engagement length should be sufficient to carry the full load necessary to break the screw without stripping the inside threads in the hole. I guess Engineers decided that screws and bolts were cheaper to replace than the threaded holes in the parts they held together.

Well guys, You have been mighty helpfull. I measured the thicknes of the pad, and although i could only get my calipers on the front edge, it measured 50/1000s . I think i will wait till he finishes the project he is working on for me ,then I will bring it uo again. He is building me a 25,06 on an interarms action with a douglas barrel. We went with a laminated boyds thumb hole sporter, cause he says he would love to build me a stock but it might add a year or more to the project. Mighty busy these days. YA know If I practice enough I might lernt to like the peep, its an old redfield.
mabye a scout scope with quick detachable rings and the peeps to, if the rings are high enough to clear. mabye that would be fun, Ill think about while I wait for my 25.
If any of you guys want to PM me an estimate I will consider it. I don't mind weaver bases but I don't think much of the rings, The burris Z ring makes them look a lot better...thanks again ...tj3006

Dear Thomas,

Your smith can weld and shape whatever he wants to the rear bridge. I have done the same thing to a M 98 Mauser because the previous owner drilled the scope mount holes off center. I welded a piece of old barrel with the right contour and holes already drilled and tapped!
I blended the join and rust blued the whole thing and it looks great. I get better primary extraction as well 'cause the metal the bolt handle hits is thicker and better shaped.

Have trust in your smith as my customers have trust in me.

Since you just bought this gun, it may be simpler to trade it for a different rifle that is not already ground.

It is no problem to add thickness to the rear bridge by welding. Just keep the heat confined to that loacale, and there is no problem. Heat-treating would only be needed if the receiver ring got hot, and no decent gunsmith would permit THAT to happen!

However, the mount you choose also depends on the kind of custom rifle you choose to build.

If your Redfield receiver sight is one that permits quick and easy removal of the slide portion, then I would use a Jaeger or G & H sidemount so you have the backup iron sights available in case conditions warrant. (If not, replace it with one that does!!) Besides, these two mounts are the "classic" choice for a custom Springfield sporter!!

It would be especially nice if you could find an old Redfield Sourdough front blade to install to go with the receiver sight. IMO, the Sourdough is the best front sight ever devised for use with an aperture rear sight!!

Good luck!