Wes, I think Nick will put it to use.

Metal - thanks mate. That is a great thread. I got a lot out of the checkering bit on page 14 / 15.

I think I will do something like that.

My rifle stock has 3 issues that I need to address with checkering.

First - the cut on the pistol grip that has an inlay - easily fixed with checkering.

Second - another insert behind the trigger guard to fix the blunder of taking too much wood out - Dwane's pattern will cover the joint of the insert. I am wondering if I should do a full wrap around on the pistol grip of do 2 panels.

Third - my rifle has the tank extension diopter sight and so I'll have to work around that.

Yup I am going to get that book.

I would appreciate some help clarify a few points.

In a checkering kit I presume that the single line cutters - 60 degree & 90 degree are universal for all LPI - right?

The No4 spacer & No 2 two-line cutters and others are unique to each LPI - right?

So if I wanted to do 18 LPI & 20 LPI & 22 LPI, all I need is extra No 4, No 2 etc, right?

I have found a 7 tool kit (used Dembart), Kennedy's book, magnifying visor, wax pencils, etc. for US$100 here in NZ. Waiting for the auction to close next week the guy has been trying to sell it for 2 months now! That kit includes a joiner, which is not part of a normal kit & quite expensive.

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
I would appreciate some help clarify a few points.

In a checkering kit I presume that the single line cutters - 60 degree & 90 degree are universal for all LPI - right?

The No4 spacer & No 2 two-line cutters and others are unique to each LPI - right?

So if I wanted to do 18 LPI & 20 LPI & 22 LPI, all I need is extra No 4, No 2 etc, right?

I have found a 7 tool kit (used Dembart), Kennedy's book, magnifying visor, wax pencils, etc. for US$100 here in NZ. Waiting for the auction to close next week the guy has been trying to sell it for 2 months now! That kit includes a joiner, which is not part of a normal kit & quite expensive.

1-Yes
2-Yes
3-Yes

I think it is a "jointer" like in for cutting a straight line or straightening out a line gone crooked.

Thanks guys.

Yes Jim correct.

I saw a few videos on Youtube. Useful but raises more questions.

I really need a clear and detailed tutorial that show how to lay out the pattern and mark the master lines correctly.

I have been playing around with a pattern on the computer and cutting it out and laying around the fore-end of my rifle.



My worry is that after I lay out this pattern on the fore-end and mark the outer profile and the 2 master lines and start marking / cutting the parallel lines, that I might find the last one or two lines are not parallel and cut across the outer profile.

I guess I need to read the book and practice first.

PS: I am going to move this discussion over to my Mannlicher Schoenauer project thread.

Why not use some masking tape and lay it out on the forend? Cover the forend with tape and lay it out. You can draw it out with a pencil and look it over before you start. The master lines are the most inportant, they must be straight. I use a portion of 1/2" tape rule for a straight edge; make your top border parallel with the stock's top edge, make some marks at the ends of the pattern where you want it to stop. I lay out the top borders and master line and then incise them with an Exacto knife, peel off the tape and you have apattern. Voila!

.
Back when I was a stock scratching fool I used to use that sticky backed aluminum Rotex label maker tape. I would stick it down to my satisfaction, scribe along it and then carefully use it as a border and chase the scribe mark with a jointer and use the aluminum as a guide. Then rip it off and toss it and lay down a fresh strip for the other master. You can't re-use it as the stuff warps and deforms if you bend it too many times.

OOPS!

My bad. Its made by DYMO. I also use it as a guide for metal stamps.

dymo by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr

Thanks Jim & Rod. Much appreciated.

I am a very visual guy & like to see the actual thing being done.

I am awaiting the DVD promised by one of the members.

Yes I was planning to use masking tape and also make a little scribe on a flat piece of wood with a nail bent to scribe the border parallel to the top edge of the fore-end on both sides.

Ok, So I will not mark the rest of the borders too deep until all the lines have been marked.

Then I can make sure that there are no cross overs or over runs, tidy up with the jointer and Finish the border, right?

Please see my other thread and post there so I can keep the continuity. http://forums.accuratereloadin...9411043/m/8611058421

Thanks once again.

After the area is taped, I will mark the top edge from the top of the stock with a caliper at a set distance, make a mark at the end where I want it to end and then take my 12" steel ruler and lay it on the stock and secure it with more tape. Take your exacto and scribe the border line using the ruler for a guide. Your will have an absolutely straight border parallel to the top of the stock.