I have a sporter mauser marked 1917 Eurfurt on the reciever. I would like to rebarrel to 257 Roberts. What would this entail to complete this project.

There are allot of ways to do it, but I think this is what is likely to happen.

The stock must be removed with two the two action screws.
The ejector assembly and trigger- sear assembly and bolt assembly are removed from the receiver.

The barrel is put in a barrel vise mounted to a big bench.

An action wrench is put on the action.
A few drops of Kroil are added to the barrel-receiver joint.
A torque of 500 foot pounds is applied to the action wrench. Concurrently, the action wrench is struck with a 20 pound weight.
The barrel is then loose and unscrewed from the receiver.

The receiver in put on a mandrel [~.7" diameter rod with a hole in it]. The mandrel and receiver are spun in the lathe, and the face of the large ring is trued.

The receiver gets 3 or 4 holes drilled and tapped with 6-48 threads.

A barrel is put in the lathe. If there are no 98 Mauser threads on this barrel, they are now cut.

If there is no 257 Roberts chamber in the barrel, it is now reamed.

The distance from the barrel breech to shoulder is made the same as from receiver large ring to inner C ring.

The barrel is screwed into the receiver and the breech and shoulder or the chamber is adjusted until headspace is correct.

The barrel is then screwed into the receiver.

The bolt body is replaced with a bent bolt handle body or the bolt handle is replaced by cut and weld or the bolt handle is cut and welded at a lower angle or the bolt handle is forged. This is so the handle clears the scope eyepiece.

Probably a new stock is found.
Probably a new trigger is found with a safety.
The stock is fitted to fit the barreled action with ejector assembly and bolt assembly and trigger assembly.

The barreled action is glass bedded to the stock.

A one piece or two piece scope mounts are installed on the receiver.

If not already there, Uncle Mike's swivel sling screws are installed in two places on the stock.

A scope with rings is installed.
A sling is installed.

-------------------

It is less likely, but...
For myself, I would prefer the original trigger with modifications [force, take up, and over travel] and install an M70 type safety.
For myself, I would align and glass bed a two piece scope mount to the receiver.
For myself, I would lap the lugs with the full bolt assembly and the stock trigger installed and a spring ball detent pushing up on the front of the bolt.
For myself, I would true the inner C ring.
For myself, I would chamber by dialing in both ends of the barrel, get a spud to be concentric over length, and boring bar out some material before using a reamer.

I really wish you'd get more specific..HA! Merry Christmas

The best way is take the action and 5 one hundred dollars bills to a good gun smith tell him want you want and let him go to work.

And if you want all the aboved mention work done add another 500 to it.

I personaly buy new guns for less money. But that is me.

quote:

And if you want all the aboved mention work done add another 500 to it.

and that probably will not get er done.....maybe a down payment!

In my opinion, the best way to convert that 1917 Mauser into a 257 R is to look on gunbroker, or talk to you local dealer, and shop for one of the new Ruger Hawkeyes. I've seen them for around $550. Then you can sell the Mauser for whatever it's worth - $150 to maybe $250, and use the money to buy a scope.

KB

quote:

Originally posted by Hutt:
I have a sporter mauser marked 1917 Eurfurt on the reciever. I would like to rebarrel to 257 Roberts. What would this entail to complete this project.

seriously.....

if all you want is a new barrel installed you can get a new A&B barrel short chambered to .257 roberts 21" lng and have someone here install it for you.....I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself unless you have a lathe, tools, and some experience.

barrel.....$95
install....$100
blue.......$100

some shipping costs too....add $50

so if you find someone that will do it for you it might cost $350 or there abouts!

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
There are allot of ways to do it, but I think this is what is likely to happen.

The stock must be removed with two the two action screws. You will not have the right screwdriver and it will slip scarring the stock and buggering up the screw heads.

The ejector assembly and trigger- sear assembly and bolt assembly are removed from the receiver. Put these pieces aside on the bench where you will lose half of the small parts

The barrel is put in a barrel vise mounted to a big bench. Your bench will be too small and probably tip over and crush the fender of your wife's car that is parked next to it.

An action wrench is put on the action.
A few drops of Kroil are added to the barrel-receiver joint.
A torque of 500 foot pounds is applied to the action wrench. Concurrently, the action wrench is struck with a 20 pound weight. Which will cause the action wrench to slip and send the barreled receiver flying out of vise and the entire assembly including the action wrench will shatter the windshield of your wife's car. The 20lb weight will of course land on your foot breaking it.

The barrel is then loose and unscrewed from the receiver. And because it is slippery from the half a can of Kroil that you accidently applied earlier you will drop it on your other foot and probably break a toe.

The receiver in put on a mandrel [~.7" diameter rod with a hole in it]. The mandrel and receiver are spun in the lathe, and the face of the large ring is trued. Of course you can only true it after you pick the action and mandrel out of the garage wall where it was flung because you forgot to tighten the chuck on the lathe.

The receiver gets 3 or 4 holes drilled and tapped with 6-48 threads. You can only do this after you repair the wiring (to the outlet that your drillpress plugs into) that was cut by the flying mandrel. You will also not have the correct drill bit for this so you will have to go out and buy an 8-40 tap to correct the oversized holes.

A barrel is put in the lathe. If there are no 98 Mauser threads on this barrel, they are now cut. Since you tightened the chuck, you will only have to dig the chuck key out of the garage wall this time.

If there is no 257 Roberts chamber in the barrel, it is now reamed. Now you can cut a 1/4" off the back of the barrel and ream the chamber again, this time watching the depth reading.

The distance from the barrel breech to shoulder is made the same as from receiver large ring to inner C ring. Then you cut another 1/4" off the back of the barrel, ream the chamber again and re-measure the distance from the receiver face to the C ring correctly.

The barrel is screwed into the receiver and the breech and shoulder or the chamber is adjusted until headspace is correct.
The barrel is then screwed into the receiver. After you have put the barrel back in the lathe, (tightening the chuck and removing the chuck key) and recut the threads to the proper depth, since the receiver threads do not match the ACME threads that you cut in the barrel.

The bolt body is replaced with a bent bolt handle body or the bolt handle is replaced by cut and weld or the bolt handle is cut and welded at a lower angle or the bolt handle is forged. This is so the handle clears the scope eyepiece. You will have to buy a new bolt since the original disapeared when you put it aside at the start of the job

Probably a new stock is found. Since you gouged it so badly with your ill-fitting screwdriver when you took the action screws out

Probably a new trigger is found with a safety. No probably about this, the original parts are nowhere to be found either.

The stock is fitted to fit the barreled action with ejector assembly and bolt assembly and trigger assembly. You have a hatchet don't you? Because that is what it's going to take to get the barreled action to fit the poorly inletted stock that you bought from "Stocks R Us"

The barreled action is glass bedded to the stock. This will be permanent because reading directions on the bedding compound is for sissies so you don't know what that "release agent" stuff is for.

A one piece or two piece scope mounts are installed on the receiver. Since you drilled the holes in the receiver slightly off center you will have to open up the screwholes in the base a little with a dremel tool. Don't worry, some more of that bedding compound will hold it in place.

If not already there, Uncle Mike's swivel sling screws are installed in two places on the stock. Then you can patch the holes in the stock with more of the bedding compound and re-install the sling swivels on the centerline of the bottom line of the stock. You will find out later that the forward swivel will be located exactly where you would normally place your left hand when actually shooting the rifle.

A scope with rings is installed. The scope will of course not fit since the rings will be to far apart when mounted to the base that is now epoxied to the receiver

A sling is installed. The sling metal will not fit in the holes in the sling swivels that you installed earlier, so you will have to buy a new sling.

Did I miss anything?

quote:

Originally posted by Hutt:
I have a sporter mauser marked 1917 Eurfurt on the reciever. I would like to rebarrel to 257 Roberts. What would this entail to complete this project.

The cost of the barrel. A&B makes a nice sporter barrel for about $100

Mark Skaggs will install the barrel and finish ream the barrel for $55

Oxpho blue creme from brownells will blue the barrel as good or better than you see on most factory rifles $15

I did a similar project a couple years back and here are all the details

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/...435/site_id/1#import

If you are just trying to build a nice little sporter it's really not very expensive.

Weagle

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
There are allot of ways to do it, but I think this is what is likely to happen.

The stock must be removed with two the two action screws. You will not have the right screwdriver and it will slip scarring the stock and buggering up the screw heads.

The ejector assembly and trigger- sear assembly and bolt assembly are removed from the receiver. Put these pieces aside on the bench where you will lose half of the small parts

The barrel is put in a barrel vise mounted to a big bench. Your bench will be too small and probably tip over and crush the fender of your wife's car that is parked next to it.

An action wrench is put on the action.
A few drops of Kroil are added to the barrel-receiver joint.
A torque of 500 foot pounds is applied to the action wrench. Concurrently, the action wrench is struck with a 20 pound weight. Which will cause the action wrench to slip and send the barreled receiver flying out of vise and the entire assembly including the action wrench will shatter the windshield of your wife's car. The 20lb weight will of course land on your foot breaking it.

The barrel is then loose and unscrewed from the receiver. And because it is slippery from the half a can of Kroil that you accidently applied earlier you will drop it on your other foot and probably break a toe.

The receiver in put on a mandrel [~.7" diameter rod with a hole in it]. The mandrel and receiver are spun in the lathe, and the face of the large ring is trued. Of course you can only true it after you pick the action and mandrel out of the garage wall where it was flung because you forgot to tighten the chuck on the lathe.

The receiver gets 3 or 4 holes drilled and tapped with 6-48 threads. You can only do this after you repair the wiring (to the outlet that your drillpress plugs into) that was cut by the flying mandrel. You will also not have the correct drill bit for this so you will have to go out and buy an 8-40 tap to correct the oversized holes.

A barrel is put in the lathe. If there are no 98 Mauser threads on this barrel, they are now cut. Since you tightened the chuck, you will only have to dig the chuck key out of the garage wall this time.

If there is no 257 Roberts chamber in the barrel, it is now reamed. Now you can cut a 1/4" off the back of the barrel and ream the chamber again, this time watching the depth reading.

The distance from the barrel breech to shoulder is made the same as from receiver large ring to inner C ring. Then you cut another 1/4" off the back of the barrel, ream the chamber again and re-measure the distance from the receiver face to the C ring correctly.

The barrel is screwed into the receiver and the breech and shoulder or the chamber is adjusted until headspace is correct.
The barrel is then screwed into the receiver. After you have put the barrel back in the lathe, (tightening the chuck and removing the chuck key) and recut the threads to the proper depth, since the receiver threads do not match the ACME threads that you cut in the barrel.

The bolt body is replaced with a bent bolt handle body or the bolt handle is replaced by cut and weld or the bolt handle is cut and welded at a lower angle or the bolt handle is forged. This is so the handle clears the scope eyepiece. You will have to buy a new bolt since the original disapeared when you put it aside at the start of the job

Probably a new stock is found. Since you gouged it so badly with your ill-fitting screwdriver when you took the action screws out

Probably a new trigger is found with a safety. No probably about this, the original parts are nowhere to be found either.

The stock is fitted to fit the barreled action with ejector assembly and bolt assembly and trigger assembly. You have a hatchet don't you? Because that is what it's going to take to get the barreled action to fit the poorly inletted stock that you bought from "Stocks R Us"

The barreled action is glass bedded to the stock. This will be permanent because reading directions on the bedding compound is for sissies so you don't know what that "release agent" stuff is for.

A one piece or two piece scope mounts are installed on the receiver. Since you drilled the holes in the receiver slightly off center you will have to open up the screwholes in the base a little with a dremel tool. Don't worry, some more of that bedding compound will hold it in place.

If not already there, Uncle Mike's swivel sling screws are installed in two places on the stock. Then you can patch the holes in the stock with more of the bedding compound and re-install the sling swivels on the centerline of the bottom line of the stock. You will find out later that the forward swivel will be located exactly where you would normally place your left hand when actually shooting the rifle.

A scope with rings is installed. The scope will of course not fit since the rings will be to far apart when mounted to the base that is now epoxied to the receiver

A sling is installed. The sling metal will not fit in the holes in the sling swivels that you installed earlier, so you will have to buy a new sling.

Did I miss anything?

yeah.. that you upgraded from AB to a shaw, and found out that the hole is off center...

that you cut left handed threads...

that kroil might just melt the soles of your overshoes...

seaform is NOT the world greatest penetrator oil...

and nothing about having to superglue shut the gouges in your left thumbpad from the dremel tool used to "open just a touch" the barrel channel...

and, of course, that you bought a lathe to "Save money" barreling... that was the best joke i EVER played on myself!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Fjold:

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:


A barrel is put in the lathe. If there are no 98 Mauser threads on this barrel, they are now cut. Since you tightened the chuck, you will only have to dig the chuck key out of the garage wall this time.

Did I miss anything?

If the threads get screwed up, look around for a small thread receiver. If that doesn't work, the barrel was .625" too long anyway.

With this rifle it would not be a ground up project. It has been completely sporterized already. I bought it for $250 complete with Bausch&Lomb 2.5X8 outstanding workmanship was employed on this one,however the 8X57 chambering, albiet an able cartridge in itself does not fit my needs as I have several hundred .257 bullets and brass on hand. So now my new question, how good of a barrel could be bought for say $300 uninstalled and who makes it.

quote:

how good of a barrel could be bought for say $300 uninstalled and who makes it.

For $300 you can get almost any barrel you want

As an example Douglas premiums and Shilen barrel blanks run about $2oo give or take a bit.

You can spend a lot more and get very little more....but many do.....look to Lilja, Pac-Nor, Krieger, Hart etc.....I think $300 will get you most of these barrels

Go Shilen and I would install it, chamber it and have it blued for $425

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
Go Shilen and I would install it, chamber it and have it blued for $425

There ya have it.....great barrel.....great price and a great smith.....

That Ruger is looking better all the time!

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
That Ruger is looking better all the time!

but in the end you have a Ruger and not a Mauser

quote:

Go Shilen and I would install it, chamber it and have it blued for $425

Go to ITD and have a douglas installed and blued for about $100 less.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:

quote:

Go Shilen and I would install it, chamber it and have it blued for $425

Go to ITD and have a douglas installed and blued for about $100 less.

Naw, in this case I'm with Jim.

quote:

Originally posted by weagle:

The cost of the barrel. A&B makes a nice sporter barrel for about $100

Mark Skaggs will install the barrel and finish ream the barrel for $55

Oxpho blue creme from brownells will blue the barrel as good or better than you see on most factory rifles $15

I did a similar project a couple years back and here are all the details

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/...435/site_id/1#import

If you are just trying to build a nice little sporter it's really not very expensive.

Weagle

I looked at the link to the post on the other site. I learned a few things, and some good ideas.

I'm curious about a few things, such as what bolt handle is that? How accurate is the A&B barrel? I always wondered about those barrels, and just figured the standard rule applies - you get what you pay for.

KB

If I were shopping for a rebarrel this is what I'd want:

-True receiver front ring
-True bolt face
-True bolt lugs and lap to reciever
-Thread barrel and chamber
-Crown barrel with 11-degree recessed crown
-Fit to stock and adjust bedding
-Beadblast and blue

For this work I charge $230. Customers choose whatever barrel that suits them in any one of manufacturer's standard contours. Custom contours can be done for additional $100. The only other cost is shipping.

Be specific as to what you want done and insist on quality work with timely turnaround. Don't let anyone tell you it will be 4-6 weeks and not deliver for a year.

Merry Christmas,

quote:

Originally posted by Kabluewy:

I looked at the link to the post on the other site. I learned a few things, and some good ideas.

I'm curious about a few things, such as what bolt handle is that? How accurate is the A&B barrel? I always wondered about those barrels, and just figured the standard rule applies - you get what you pay for.

KB

The .257 A&B barrel shoots about 1 1/2 groups with my hunting handloads (100 gr partition IMR 4350) as well as the 120gr factory loads I had on hand (120gr nosler partitions) I have several friends that have done similar projects with A&B barrels of various chamberings and all had similar results. Not a dog in the bunch, but no real tack drivers either.

I can't really comment on the potential accuracy, because I'm not a target shooter and if I find a load that shoots 1 1/2" I call it good and go shoot stuff.

One reason I like the A&B barrels is that for what ever reason, they take the Oxpo blue creme very well. It really looks better than the factory blue on most remchesters and is very easy to apply. Basically rub it on with steel wool, wipe it off with a papertowel.. repeat 4 or 5 times, apply oil and done. No special prep or meticulous application.

In my case, had I spent more on the barrel or gunsmith work i would have simply had a thinner wallet to show for it.

The bolt handle was on the action when I bought it so I'm not sure where it came from.

Weagle

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:

That Ruger is looking better all the time!

Yes.

I have one, a .257 Roberts, -- it's the older Ruger 77 with tang safety -- that I bought used for something like $295 several years ago. I did trigger work on it myself, and now its triger is crisp and not creepy.

I have to admit that I'm not much of a fan of Mauser actions. I think the pre-'64 Model 70 action is much better.

If that 1917 Erfurt is a 98a with the small ring and large thread I would send it on down the highway. Check the receiver ring thickness over the extractor. If it is about as thick as a Gillette blue blade I would get rid of it.

I examined one of these bare receivers at a gunshow. It was loose on the table because it had partially collapsed due to the pressure of the action wrench. The cave in was a large depression on top of the receiver in front of the top locking lug abutment.

That $300 would buy a helluva lot of 8x57 brass and bullets.

But you guys are all overlooking the main reason for this - the guy wants to build his own rifle.

He obviously is aware of how much it will cost - always 2+ times what you thought - and he wants to be an active participant in his project. Good on him.

Sometimes we do this stuff cos we can , and thats a good enough reason for me.

Found a reputable riflesmith that will install a Shilen barrel chambered to .257 roberts complete with blueing for $300. Thanks for all the input. As I said the rifle has already been completely sporterized save for the original turned down barrel. Maybe someone here would be interested the old 8X57 takeoff, it has remington sights installed.