This is from a very old Parker shotgun.

My first thought was someone really buggered the screws but then it occurred to me that perhaps the screws are untouched and the tops have been worn by carrying in the hand or in a gloved hand and the metal at the center of the slot, where the screw has a crown, eventually migrated together. Notice especially the screw to the left of the P in Parker, the slot is almost closed up.

Thoughts?

some dumbass with a hammer

The large screw adjust tension on the internal slide plate it help center it on both side small screw is a lock screw

Peening the screw head with a hammer. They must have been really bad, still are.

It is the opposite of Untouched.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
It is the opposite of Untouched.

Thats what I was thinkin'. Looks like someone tried to un-bugger them by buggering them.

Of course, peened over. They do look rather flat.

Yep. Likely buggered with improper screwdriver then peened over after installation. To remove them for repair you will need to fabricate a small diameter cutting disc for a Dremel and re-cut the slot without hitting the receiver. Takes a steady hand and metal guards installed on both sides. Once removed they can be re-cut with a screw slot file or welded up and re-cut. Or replaced.

No need to do anything special to get the screws out, just used the flat blade bits that have the centre cut out. Come in sizes 4 to 10 from hardware stores in bit sets. Or you could make one yourself from a flat blade screwdriver, file the centre of the blade out. I wouldn't be attempting to do anything to the screw heads while they are still in the side plates, one slip with a Dremel and you'll have some unwanted engraving

I just recut those slots in place with a flat graver of appropriate width, enough to remove them and repair them or replace them correctly, as described above. Usually oil and heat them, and then take them out with a perfectly fit 1/4" insert bit, turned in the mill or drill press, with down pressure to make sure they don't strip. When they get to this stage, you want to make sure they come out the first time, as there's a limit to how many times you can effectively recut them.

wow ...
ah, well, here's what it is suppose to look like
https://montywhitley.com/produ...uge-double-shotgun/#

2 of the three will probably unscrew without any cutting/grinding/chiseling/witchcraft. Just dip the screwdriver tip in a rosin slurry and unscrew it. The closed up one can be tapped loose with a fine prick punch made from O-1. Then either re-shape or replace them.

The one on the left is a very short near headless plug screw,,about like a scopemount plug screw.
Taking that out won't upset anything.

The one in the middle is a lock screw with shoulder on it. You can remove that one too and w/o anything happening.

The large one on the right is the hammer pivot screw.
Don't remove that one with out first blocking the hammer and it's mainspring into a slight compressed & captured condition to take the pressure off of the screw.

To do that, the stock has to come off (trigger guard & plate, sears, ect.)
Then you push the fired hammer forward under spring tension and drop a short nose round punch into the hole in the frame exposed once the trigger plate is off.
The punch will drop into a square edged cut in the spring follower and hold it in that slightly compressed condition.
Now you can take the screw out and the hammer will fall back out of the action.
The mainspring and it's follower remain in the frame unless you 'pull the pin' and release them out the back of the frame.

Any of those screws can be removed by simply taking a screwdriver that the blade is ground to a near knife edge and tapped into the slot(s).
That will open the screw slot back up enough to get a real screwdriver blade into them and back them out.

The peening already done draws the metal over at the top of the slot only,,right under that roof of metal is the original wide(r) slot. You just push that peened metal aside to get at it.

Once the screws are out, peen the slots back where they should be carefully closing up the slot slightly from both sides.
Reshape the heads while they are in the vise and polish. Then trim the slots even.
Recut/cut and engraving and color.

These screws should have slightly domed heads. Reshaping the now flat surfaces to a slight dome is no problem as the hammer and it's lock screw can be backed out 1 turn to take care of loss of that height and still be tight when installed together.
The plug screw is very small to work on but the edges can be pushed down a small amt by peening. Polished and cleaned up the slight domed head will sit up where it belongs again.

The plug and lock screw slots should be qualified horizontal. The hammer screw slot sits vertical in the frame.

You can buy replacement screw sets for the Parker and others. But I've always found it easier to reshape the originals and I've done 100's of them and other makes as well.

OR...for about $35.00 you can get a whole new set from Galazan Part PS020

weld them up and recut them and harden them, but Id just take Duanes advise and buy a complete set of new screws.

Wear like that is caused by tanking them out and putting them back in, and a ill fitting screwdriver slipping both directions..thus you get the hour glass screw head...

I said you can buy replacement screw sets for these and others.
But I can fix these and much worse in less time it takes to fit a new set.
No welding, plenty of matr'l there.
You still have to disassemble to replace the hammer screw(s),,new or not.