Hi everyone,

What's the general opinion on improving the trigger pull on a 77 MkII? Should I get a trigger job on the existing trigger, or should have an aftermarket trigger put in? If after market, should I go with the Timney, the Rifle Basix, or the Dayton Traister?

Thanks,

analog_peninsula

To make a great trigger out of the original takes max 15 minutes, and that includes assembly/ dissasembly. I would not bother with a new one.

Right,

I've never seen a replacement that didn't take more time to fit than it does to modify the factory one. You can get an easy three pound pull. I use the spring kit from wolff that has the striker and trigger spring and work the trigger engagement. Save your money and use the factory parts

Just be carefull with the ruger triggers.. they are sintered metal, and surface hardened,, but only only only on the surface!! like a 10/22, it's easy to polish through the hardening


I put a lighter spring in my 470 AR, and polished with "mother's billet polish"
jeffe

There's lot's of things you can do to improve the trigger of the Ruger M77 MkII, because there's a lot wrong with it out of the box. Some of these things are easier than other things.

Taking the trigger out of the action is simple, and even the Ruger manual explains it. Once you've done it a few times, it'll take maybe 15 seconds.

Once you have the trigger out, replace the standard Ruger trigger spring with a lighter spring of the same length and diameter. That cut mine from a seven pound pull to four pounds. It does nothing to fix creep, but it's a noticable improvement that might even be overlooked (mine was) by Ruger if the rifle has to go back to the factory for repairs.

Take note of the trigger/sear relationship as you remove it from the action. Determine if the "top" of the trigger (where it bears on the sear) is covered with tool marks, particularly crossways to the trigger/sear movement. Polish out the tool marks - "polish," not "grind," or "file." I used a fine sandpaper, but I recall someone objecting to that approach at some time. This allows the two parts to move smoothly against one another, and though it doesn't change the actual amount of creep, it's a smoother pull, with creep less noticable.

I wouldn't recommend it, but I took it another step and removed metal and changed angles slightly to lessen creep, and it worked for me. However, Ruger did change it back to factory normal (and charged me for changing my 3.5# trigger to 4.25#) when I had to return the rifle for headspace issues, but it was a reasonable learning experience.

Mainly what I learned is that you can't really accomplish what you need to accomplish with a hardware store file and no way to control the angles. The trigger and sear need to break cleanly and evenly. The pins need to fit very well, and not be loose and sloppy. It's hard to remove only the metal you want to remove and not other nearby metal. If I buy another Ruger, I'll polish a little, and change the spring, but mostly just to reduce the eventual price the gunsmith charges me for removing metal and changing angles. As bad as it comes from the factory, it's really an excellent basis for a crisp, troublefree trigger for years to come, and doesn't require you to worry about adjustment screws coming loose 20 years from now.

Soapbox mode: OFF.

Jaywalker

Easy to fix, don't spend the money on a trigger. You need to change the angle so it doesn;t compress the spring as you pull the trigger. Take one apart, pull the trigger and this'll all make sense. You can get one to 2.5 pounds easy. I don't have any that were sloppy in the pins and creepy, but have heard of this problem as well.

I had a Suhl-trained gunsmith fix the factory trigger. However, it was not comparable to the Timney I already had on another rifle.

Timney are also very easy to install if you follow the instructions and take care when filing off metal.

I just simply did the costly and easiest for me-Timney trigger. Wonderful pull.