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I am making a full length stock for a friend on a rifle with a 24 inch barrel. Without a military style upper hand guard and band clamping things together I am concerned about the long stock being too flexible. I would like to find a way to anchor it. Due to the length of the blank I had to add about 2.5 inches of ebony at the tip, and I don't think a mannlicher nose cap would look right. My thought was to try to find some sort of clamp on barrel band, run a through bolt out the stock, cinch things down and attach a front sling swivel on the wood side. I am pretty sure he isn't going to want to drill and tap the underside of the barrel, and a sleeve won't work because of the front sight. I have looked for something pre-made for this purpose, and I'm not seeing anything. Does anybody know of anything that would work with minimal work, or ideas on fabbing up something? | ||
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look at the savage/stevens style barrel band. It's a loop of steel with keyholes in the ends that hook onto a nut. | |||
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Mannlicher stocks do not look right with barrels over about 20 inches, and 18.5 is best. They should have a steel nose cap. Just my opinion of course. In your case I would use a barrel band like rich says. | |||
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I was hoping to avoid one that encircled the wood... | |||
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Take dpcd's word for it...a 24" barrel will look terrible...a least for something like a normal LOP. There have been ways of mitigating the strange look of a long barrel...We've seen a Schnabel about 8 inches or so down the fore end. You really need some way to keep the wood at the end under control. (as in nose cap) Look at examples of mannlichers and be guided...deviate too far from normal and it's a step backward.....The customer is not always right! | |||
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This one doesn't have a metal muzzle cap and I think it looks ok.  It does use a barrel band similar somewhat to what richj mentioned. that band also serves at the anchor for the front sling swivel. It also has the "Schnabel" feature midway that Duane mentioned. With such a long barrel you would really have to thin the stock a lot in order for it to look anywhere near proportional. Here's an original Mauser sporter with 24". It has the schnabel that Duane mentions.   Aut vincere aut mori | |||
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Bugly, fugly. Just to me though; if you like that last one, all is well. Except for a sense of proportion. But, go for it. Personally, (again, just me personally), I will not build a Mannlicher with a long barrel. Please keep the hate mail to a minimum. | |||
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DPCD, I respect your opinion as much as anyone's, but that and $5 gets you a cup of coffee.  We have already considered that this is a long barrel length, and I actually formed a false schabel at the mid-point that was voted down. So, to my original question, Z1R has provided photos of two very nice looking rifles with exactly the barrel band through stock feature I was describing in the OP. Again, because of the front sight I was thinking of something like this: Example 1 Or this: Example 2 The question/issue is, what about a through-stock extension? How do those pictured above terminate so that the stock can be tightened against the barrel and a swivel attached? Does anyone make these, or would I need to design and TIG my own fitting? | |||
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The barrel band is threaded and the sling swivel eye screws into it sandwiching the stock to the barrel at that point. The ones I have seen also had a brass or steel bushing under the swivel eye to give the wood reinforcement so you could really tighten it. To connect the stock to the barrel, I've seen a small pin or wedge used like seen on traditional black powder rifles as well. Jeremy | |||
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Where might I find one like you describe? | |||
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My method that I strangely think is the proper way to do things...HAR! Is...to isolate the barrel from influence of the wood and vice versa, since wood and metal will expand I(and contract) at different rates. Means the cap is attached only to the wood (from the front is logical) and the swivel base is attached to the barrel by a longitudinal dovetail to allow expansion fore and aft. The Swivel base itself is only attached to the wood, | |||
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Duane's method is better than what I have seen. When, I say, what I have seen, these were old rifles from Europe that were built long ago. Very thin forearms and slender lines. The parts are all going to be one off, and you'll have to make them. I don't believe anyone like Recknagel makes something for this application. Jeremy | |||
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Totally agree. | |||
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We met yesterday to review progress, discuss options, etc. The main reason for going with an ebony tip vs a metal cap was because we needed 2" to make up for blank length. Given the flexibility of the stock, (and a desire to secure it...) the barrel length, and the fact that the front sight has been dinged up a bit, my friend is now considering lopping off about 2" of barrel and reattaching a new front sight. (It is currently 23" measured from the front of the receiver ring.) So, fresh set of Questions: 1. How does the front sight ramp of a vintage commercial FN attach? It appears to be sweated on since we drifted the blade out and didn't see any screws. 2. Gunsmith recommendation in Washington state to shorten and recrown? I would do it myself but I think he might want a "professional"... 3. The muzzle measures .590 dia. I'm finding a few endcaps on line, but most are larger diameter. Any recommendations on a source? | |||
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Ain't no such thing as being able to buy all the parts off the shelf. That's why it's called "custom" | |||
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And i'm just looking for one i can customize!  | |||
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I think we are going to go with a NECG unit. There are two, for muzzle diameters of .571" and .610". His muzzle is .590". I'm recommending the .571 and file to fit. .019 isn't much, but just thought I ask if anybody has worked with this particular one before to ensure there is enough material for this. (I'd hate to go oversized and shim it...) Thanks. | |||
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Monte, I would talk to the NECG folks. I put their barrel band sling swivel on a .458 Lott barrel a number of years ago. If I remember right they recommended buying small and said to get it close, then tap it down the barrel (Maybe while heating it?) and it'll expand to fit. In any case, worked well for me. Hope this helps. | |||
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Do yourself a service and take a look at a brno mod 22, that is how all manlicher stocks should be done..20 inches or less is correct IMO.. I have never seen or shot or heard of a Brno mod. 22 that wouldn't shoot or one that ever warped..and Ive owned so many of them I have to assume that is fact.. All Ive heared about manlichers is they warp, and that's just folks repeating what seems likely not form real world experience IMO..Its one of the great rumors of our time. Its not a fact at all..They are no more likely to warp than any other rifle style of stock when put together properly and the use of good material. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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