I just completed a custom designed scope mount to be used on a Model 71 Winchester. Its made from carbon steel. When finished it will get ConeTrol rings. Design uses the barrel dovetail and the factory peep sight holes for mounting. No mods to the rifle other than removal of the dovetail filler and peep sight screws.
I want a descent bluing, but never did rust or hot bluing in my shop.
Was wondering if I would get a better and more durable blue if I heat the part to around 250F then apply Oxpho.
Any thoughts.
Bob Nisbet
email: RANisbet@Yahoo.Com

I have never tried what you are suggesting. But I do know that rust bluing it would be simple. It might be a great opportunity to experament with rust bluing. It would not be a large investment.

Thanks h2oboy,
I did some research into rust bluing and immersion into a chemical bath.
The chemical bath technique I found describes the use of commonly available chemicals. Some of the rust blue techniques require exotic acids that would be difficult to come by, unless I had access to a chemistry lab.
Before I try those methods, I want to know if there is a simpler way, since I already have some Oxpho in my shop.
Bob Nisbet

I've used Oxpho, but never heated. I've heard of it though. Cold, it does a pretty good job, but can require a little practice to get it right. All of the cold blues, including Oxpho, aren't really black oxide blues in the traditional sense. They are actually patina chemicals. Most plate the metal with copper and then darken it with acid. I believe Oxpho lays down a phosphatized base coat and then you color that with a damp application afterward. My issues with Oxpho and the other cold blues are inferior appearance and after rust. When I used to use it, I had to seal the metal with lacquer or polyurethane to keep it from rusting.

Rust bluing is easy, and you can get what you need from the grocery store and the liquor store. Look in the toilet bowl cleaning section for a product called Sno-Bowl. It contains dilute HCL and ammonium chloride. These are both potent rust producers. Add a shot of 180 proof alcohol to the mix and you have a rust bluing solution. If you are real cheap, you can use the frontier "piss and vinegar" blue. Just mix urine and white vinegar 1:1 and wipe it on. If you've ever been in a public restroom, you know this will produce rust!

You know, you might be able to use the Oxpho as a rust blue by just wiping it on and putting in a sweatbox. I did it once with Birchwood Casey Super Blue. The blue turned out good, but the sulfuric acid in it made the steel smell like rotten eggs for two years.

Oxpho Blue will give good results generally but on a part as large as the scope mount base you have, I think you'll start to get an uneven look to it.
I've gotten the best results with it by dunking the part in the stuff instead of trying to wipe it on. A large part needs alot of the stuff to do that. I use it on small parts,,screws, pins, front sites etc when needed.
I've never had after rust with Oxpho Blue. But with other types,,especialy the 44-40 brand,,rinsing is a must or you're assured to see some rust in the future. Most cold blues that cause the after rust have a Selenium compound in them.

Warming the part helps w/OxphoBlu but don't get it too hot or you'll start to get a weird rainbow color look. Just warm to the touch is helpful. I just hold it up to a light bulb over the bench. Don't know what I'll do when AlGore takes 'em all away.

Rust blueing is a better choice IMHO. You can do that with most of the quick rust solutions sold for muzzle loading building. BirchWood Casey stuff is usually available off the shelf at most gunshops and even sporting goods stores like GanderMtn and the like.
Heat the part with a propane torch or even over the stove top flame,, wipe the soln onto it,,it'll turn rust/brown. Then into some distilled boiling water for a few minutes and the brown will turn black/blue. Out of the water and card the fine powdered coating off with oilfree steel wool and do the whole process over again.
3 or 4 coats should do it.

The Quick Brown really worked good before they took the mercury compounds out of it! Still pretty good though and you'll live a few more years too if you use alot of it.

I have tried heating parts with a propane torch and they seem to blue real well.Better than just room temp.I just warm the parts till condisation forms on the metal,wipe it off then blue and treat with as many passes of blue you need to make it the color you want.

yes, they will blue darker and more even... and, imho, may even stink MORE

quote:

Originally posted by Tebsinar:
Thanks h2oboy,
I did some research into rust bluing and immersion into a chemical bath.
The chemical bath technique I found describes the use of commonly available chemicals. Some of the rust blue techniques require exotic acids that would be difficult to come by, unless I had access to a chemistry lab.
Before I try those methods, I want to know if there is a simpler way, since I already have some Oxpho in my shop.
Bob Nisbet

Bob,
This is what I was refering to. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx...Product/BELGIAN_BLUE It is fast and easy. But maybe the Oxpho will give you the results you want.

Get some Laurel Mtn Forge browning solution. It can also be used for bluing.

http://www.laurelmountainforge...arrel_brown_inst.htm

Follow the instructions, and you will be quite satisfied. I've played around with Oxpho Blue, I think it's OK for minor touch up or small pieces, but that's about it.

At least you get most of the smell out in the shop rather than in the field.I have noticed that it does go away faster if done this way.Just my opnion.Your milage may vary.