I have recently purchased a Winchester Classic Featherweight in 308 Win. The design and overall appearance (except for finish) is very nice on this rifle. But obviously, quality control isn't of high priority at Winchester.
* As it is now the feeding is a bit problematic. Most rounds are gripped by the claw on their way into the chamber but especially the 4 th round isn't gripped at all.
* Round nose bullets often get stuck on the back of the chamber.
* The trigger is heavy and creepy.(this must be easy for a competent gunsmith)
So, can these problems be fixed by a gunsmith? Or is it back to the dealer and a refund?
What else could or should be done on this rifle to make into a good hunting rifle that functions perfectly.
PCH. I have a M70 that needed a lot of tweeking. Accuracy was ho hum. The barrell channel had a ridge down the middle that made it imposible to shot more than two times with out a change in the point of impact. I removed the ridge and floated the barrel, glass beded the action, and adjusted the trigger to 2 1/2 pounds. Shoots MOA now with most loads. I am still looking at how to remove the creep from the trigger. I was going to post a topic to see what other M70 owners have done to correct the problem short of installing am a fter market trigger. any ideas???? Dave
Posts: 2134 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 26 June 2000
My opinion is do not replace Model 70 triggers. They are bad from the factory to keep the lawyers quiet, but a good gunsmith can easily and cheaply make a better field unit out of the stock M70 than one of the aftermarket triggers. I had mine done sometime ago by J&G of Roseville, CA but I would guess $50 should still give you a clean break of 2.5-2.75 pounds from any good smith that knows M70s.
I just broke in my classic stainless in 270 wsm. It shoots MOA. One complaint though. If I put just one round in the magazine and attempt to chamber it gets cought up in the chamber, something is hitting the side of teh case. If I fill the magazine and cycle the action relatively fast it works fine. This is my first win, is this normal for the "controlled feeding."
Trouble with feeding may be the norm with new -old 70s but not old -old 70s. I just bought a .338 rebarreled from a .270 with the bolt face opened up and extractor shortened, no rail work is needed. While checking things out before putting my money down I loaded the magizne with 3dummy rounds. They fed perfectly, then the seller said watch this and fed 3 empty case through the action. I did it again to make sure it wasn't a fluke. The gun shoots tight groups to!
Back aways on this board is a good discussion on adjusting Win. triggers.
Thanks Don: did the search , I have stoned the sear enguagement and that helped a lot, had thought about installing a 4-48 set screw like on the factory Savage triggers. the epoxy or a drop of hi temp solder may be a thing to try in the future. Dave
Posts: 2134 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 26 June 2000
All the problems on your M-70 are an easy fix...all one needs to do is hone a M-70 trigger and set it up...It is still the best trigger ever made for a rifle...
Posts: 42354 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000
To be honest I don't know how to slick a M-70 except in a general way. Perhaps there is a reference in Howes Gunsmithing or some book that we could be refered to. I have three old M-70's that feed perfectly. They are .300H&H, .375H&H and a .358 Win. I have not checked my 30/06 Featherweight. I know that my pre-64 that was a .264 Mag and now is a .224" wildcat with a short case does not feed perfectly but I don't really care. Well I do care but there is so much else to do. For a varmint rifle it's a want and not a need.
Feed and extractin is problematic and best left to a good smith, but it is not costly..Give it to our own John Ricks, he will fix it and not strain your pocket book...
Posts: 42354 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000