I am have a Stevens 200 rebarreled. Calling gun. need a cheap finsh, that looks better than spray paint. I will be using Camo Krylon until I figure out what I am doing with it. How much? Who do you all reccomend.

I am talking bead blast and boiled, nothing fancy at all, something that will hold up.

Parkerizing can be done by most anyone at home .That has either knowledge or experience doing it .

With a few simple purchased ingredients from a Chemical Supply out fit or Brownells . Degrease twice then either Bead blast or Acid etch .Be sure to neutralize if acid etching is used !!.

Phosphoric Acid Maganese Dioxide . Water Phosphate cosmoline and other final finishes can be used depending on color desired !. Best to either purchase a kit or have someone do it for you rather than my telling the exact methods used . ...

Where can someone go to get a step by step description of the process and all the chemicals needed?

The last parkerizing job I hired cost me a hundred dollar bill. That's more than fair for a complete finishing job in my book. I don't think I could get set up to parkerize for less than that and be able to turn out the quality of work that the smith delivered very easily. Plus, it was just easier to hire it done and not have to mess with it.

Blueprinted I am sorry for hijacking your thread but I must! I need a Parkerizing job too.

Tex21 where did you have it done and was it a nice "green" color?
The parkerizing jobs that I love the most are far more green than gray.

You might want to check out www.hotflashrefinishing.com. I have not had anything parkerized by them, but I have had them do a couple of blue jobs and was quite satisfied with the work.

send it to someone that does it for a job, as it can be a bit nasty with chemicals.
should be less than 100 for a beadblast and park

jeffe

It's really not all that messy . Cost of materials varies depending on where one buys their chemicals .I buy from a Major Chemical House . ( mainly because of what I did for a living ) . Raw materials are pretty cheap . It does a lot of guns for a little money .

As far as doing it , it's a far sight easier than bluing and safer to boot . The trick is if your matching some thing like say on a military piece .

Then you have to know " What " the Final treatment finish was and length of solution exposure . Practice ! , makes one an expert in very little time . Keep time when bathing parts in solutions so you'll know !.

Some prefer light gray , dark gray , black green . Green is where cosmoline comes into play . WW 11 stuff was done with cosmoline finishes or packed in the stuff so it kind of absorbed the color so to speak .

I never knew where to send my stuff too. So I taught myself by using strips of metal and swivels small thing like that before venturing on too firearms .

Biggest problem for most people ( was for me ) is getting proper SS pans with cover lids ( cuts down on fumes ). Then burner set up ( out side is best or real well vented area ) then suspending parts . Don't boil solutions !. 190 - 200 degrees is JUST FINE !.

What ever one does DON'T FORGET to USE proper GLOVES and Apron and SS tongs MAKE SURE YOU PLUG THE BORE !!!!!!.

I showed a friend how to Parkerize . I made the mistake of not telling him to PLUG the BORE !!!!. Never occurred to me !. I some times take certain things for granted people should know !.

Thankfully it was an older junker military piece without real value he practiced on !!.

He though only the parts blasted were affected . EVERYTHING that's dipped is affected !. Please Don't forget that !.

Shoot straight know your target . ...

I also had a very pleasant conversation many years ago with the Daughter of the Man who invented the Parkerizing method . He did it or perfected it for the military weapons program . She was and still is I hope a lovely gal . Gave me exact formulas bless her heart .

Snellstrom ; Two things for that green color can be used I can think of off the top of my head . Without getting into technical chemical solutions .

Cosmoline and or first an Aniline dye then cosmoline for final finish !. Green !.


I would like to add that not all weapons manufactures follow those formulas today . Good luck trying to extract info from any of them as far as finishing goes !!!!!!. ...

quote:

Originally posted by Snellstrom:
Tex21 where did you have it done and was it a nice "green" color?

I had a local smith do the work and it came out gray.

Try Chris Colon at KRC Refinishing,www.krcrefinishing.com.Chris has done many rifles for me, including my CZ 416 Rigby and 458 WM. Excellent work, good turn-around times and very reasonable prices. He's located in NW Indiana.

quote:

Originally posted by Tex21:

quote:

Originally posted by Snellstrom:
Tex21 where did you have it done and was it a nice "green" color?

I had a local smith do the work and it came out gray.

That's how mine came out using the agi kit, I heard the brownells stuff is blacker in color. It is very easy to do though, I just placed the tub over 2 burners on the range for a heat source, no mess the wife never even knew.
-Don

Fellas ; Remember " Parkerizing " is a process not the color necessarily !. Final color can be achieved in different ways with different agents used in the final bath before rinse bath . Then it must be cooked in an oven at 250 - 350 degrees to burn off any water and be throughly dry !!. then either oiled or some people bake various paints or other coatings on it . Phosphate makes it gray !.

It's similar but not to aluminum anodizing .
Where sulfuric fume is used to " Anodize " or age the surface of Aluminum then an Aniline dye is applied for color . Sealed by various methods or chemical treatments . ...

I had Hot Flash reparkerize an old M1 of mine. They did a great job and charged me less than $200.00 including return shipping.

Box it up and send it off! I like that!