I have a Winchester Featherweight stock that has been dinged up a bit (checkering is fine). Needs the factory finish stripped off and the dings and scars raised. It is a pretty minor job, but I am not set up to do it and don't want to get the checkering all plugged up with stripper and old finish.

I will do the sanding and final finish work.

Recommendations?

For what you are asking for, tape off the checkering. Then strip the finish off with JASCO Marine Grade stripper and a paint brush applicator. Steam out the dents. Sand the gunstock. Finish the gunstock. Admire your handiwork.

Stripping a gunstock and not getting anything in the checkering is a pain in the rear end. It is very labor intensive. That is why stockers will usually recut the checkering as common course of doing a refinish job.

Yes, I do refinishing as a part of my business. No, I do not do this type of work without fully doing the whole job. Quality Control issues.

Thanks for the info. It looks like they have removed the active chemical in the strippers that really made them work well. All I can find is "Premium" paint and epoxy remover.

I guess I will have all winter to work on it though.

I was planning to use an oil finish, but I assume I will have to recut the checkering to some degree, since it will likely fill up with oil and rotten stone. Can't hurt it much as it is.

If your finish is original it is just varnish and will come off with most any powerful solvent like xylene or furniture refinisher.
And you won't need rottenstone; just sand it with oil, and by oil, I mean a modern drying stock finish; I use the stuff from Brownells, tung oil and urethane. Pro custom or something like that. Don't even think about using linseed oil.
As for the checkering; just don't sand it off; it will be fine; clean it with a tooth brush and the solvent.

Yeah...I'm over cautions maybe,,,But stay away from xylene...in fact any of the "ene's)

Bad poison, absorbed thru skin, fumes, etc

With the help of an MD, conducted a seminar some years ago...MD's info really put the fear of God into me about the "ene's

quote:

Originally posted by Johral:
It is a pretty minor job, but I am not set up to do it

Recommendations?

as you said, it requires setup - and you may noticed that the cost of the setup might have exceeded your expectation of the price of this minor job. And, to be honest, if you and I were proximate, I'd invite you over, and would enjoy some coffee and walk you through it.

But this isn't a minor job (minor to me means under 2 hours) and while these are ELAPSED times, not working time, i'd like you to know the overall view

prep the stock - call it an hour to do it correctly

apply stripper - likely 2, if not 3, coats and removal - 4-6 hours

neutralize the stripper -- which likely includes wetting the stock, which raises the whiskers 1 hour

allowing stock to dry, likely overnight to make certain it's dry.

raise the dents by steaming them -- this likely won't take an hour, depending on the work and workability of the wood .. some might do this before stripping the stock .. i've done it both ways, both work .. damp cloth and a hot clothes irons is most likely all one needs

at this point it could be sent back, though in a somewhat sorry state

so, while the actual work is likely less than 3 hours to get the stock ready to be finished, it will take over 2 days to get it there. and one must add time if they don't have stripper and/or neutralizer to hand.

and I, like others, would have some worries on quality control

Xylene is the only solvent that works well with the OD paints I use on Army Jeeps. It's banned in kalifornia and their paint jobs look like crap.
Here's another method for raising dents and one I use on all military stocks;
TSP; put some (I never measure it) in a couple gallons of hot water in a plastic trough; soak the stock for 20 minutes; all the oil and dents will be out then you can remove the old finish, which in your case, if original, is cheap varnish.
As everyone has said, this is an easy job, but if you are not that adventurous, then someone else will have to do it for you and I don't have time.
good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by Johral:
Thanks for the info. It looks like they have removed the active chemical in the strippers that really made them work well. All I can find is "Premium" paint and epoxy remover.

I guess I will have all winter to work on it though.

I was planning to use an oil finish, but I assume I will have to recut the checkering to some degree, since it will likely fill up with oil and rotten stone. Can't hurt it much as it is.

You SURE you don't want to tackle this yourself? It's a pretty simple DIY project even if you've never tried it. I don't share anywhere near the skill and knowledge of some who've replied here, but I've done a few of my own rifles with excellent results. Citristrip works well for taking off the old finish, and it doesn't stink up the house or give you cancer. It works on all but the mega-glossy epoxy finishes like found on some Brownings, etc.

Set up a simple folding table somewhere and cover it with plastic, newspaper, or cardboard.

Well, I guess I will be doing this one myself. I actually have some toluene in the shop that is used for thinning some of glue that I use. I'll see if it will strip off some of the finish.

I'll make sure to wear my gloves and use a respirator.

Toluene didn't even touch the factory finish. I suspected it must be some kind of polyurethane, and not varnish. The stripper does take it off, but it will take several coats.

Once I start putting the oil to it, there won't be any way to keep it out of the checkering, so I will have to recut it. Or can I sponge it out of the checkering to keep it from building up?

Where can I get Alkanet Root? The base color is pretty blah at this point.

To get a proper "red oil", you would need to let it infuse for a while. You could buy probably buy "CCL Traditional English Gun Products Red Root Oil" and have it ready to go straight away.

I believe the double gun shop still sells it in the USA:

https://www.doublegunshop.com/...-products-052919.pdf

DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT IN CLOSED SPACES!!!!
DO IT OUTDOORS!!!
If it is poly it isn't original. Back then Winchester used the cheapest lacquer/varnish they could find.
As for getting finish into the checkering, you just need to be careful, don't slosh it on, and use a toothbrush in the checkering. Only put a few drops at a time, on and rub that around.
Why not practice on a junk stock first? Sounds like you need the practice.

I do have a stock to practice on, so we are good there. This stock is from the last decade, it isn't an older stock.

As for practice, I suppose I do, since the refinishing projects I did in the past were not checkered, so it didn't matter.

Yes you can keep it out of the Checkering. Tape it off as Dennis Earl Smith said. He knows a bit.
I’ve done this several times successfully.
Since your already stripping the entire stock let it dry after you’ve gotten rid of the stripper. Use masking tape to carefully follow the borders. Use a new exacto blade to just score along the border if necessary. A typical point pattern is easy to follow. It will absolutely keep your Checkering protected and you can finish it at the end.
I believe the Checkering will absorb a lot more of any stain you use.
Good luck, lots of tutorials here by the best pros in the business.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Xylene is the only solvent that works well with the OD paints I use on Army Jeeps. It's banned in kalifornia and their paint jobs look like crap.
Here's another method for raising dents and one I use on all military stocks;
TSP; put some (I never measure it) in a couple gallons of hot water in a plastic trough; soak the stock for 20 minutes; all the oil and dents will be out then you can remove the old finish, which in your case, if original, is cheap varnish.
As everyone has said, this is an easy job, but if you are not that adventurous, then someone else will have to do it for you and I don't have time.
good luck.

I've done the same thing, but used washing soda and a low simmer. Works very well, and no harm/damage to the wood (so far). I've got a pre '64 M70 stock that's going to be next.

I still need to find the Alkanet root, but I have the oil on order.

Is the Alkanet used throughout the entire process or just the initial cooats to fill the pores?

Look up S.B. McWilliams on the internet. He makes what your looking for Sales through Ebay.

Dave

Original FW stocks were not red/purple which is what the alkanet root will do. Unless that is the color you want. They were brown/yellow.

quote:

Originally posted by Johral:
I still need to find the Alkanet root, but I have the oil on order.

Is the Alkanet used throughout the entire process or just the initial cooats to fill the pores?

Here you go.


https://mountainroseherbs.com/...eEAQYASABEgLuUfD_BwE

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Original FW stocks were not red/purple which is what the alkanet root will do. Unless that is the color you want. They were brown/yellow.

As I said above, this is a recent gun, with the Schnabel forend. It does in fact have some red in the finish.

Thanks for the links to the Alkanet root.

Anyone have an answer to the last half of my question - is it used for the whole process or just a few of the initial coats?

Ok, recent FW gun (rifle); I missed that. I have one of those; alkanet root will not duplicate that color either. But it will look fine. I kept thinking you had a 1950s era FW, so, sorry; ignore all my comments.

Alkanet Oil
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alkan...e:g:dYcAAOSwpLxc0kVT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Mc...0:g:HfMAAOSwwE5WZLjX

Alkanet Root is also available on eBay and I have used it previously to tint Sea Fin Teak Oil.

I recommend the Pagan Witchcraft oil.
It works well for spells and incantations; not sure about stocks.

You haven't tried eye of newt, and toe of frog, wool of bat, and tongue of dog?

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Yeah...I'm over cautions maybe,,,But stay away from xylene...in fact any of the "ene's)

Bad poison, absorbed thru skin, fumes, etc

With the help of an MD, conducted a seminar some years ago...MD's info really put the fear of God into me about the "ene's

I now have the sealer and the finishing oil. Is the Alkanet used in both? Red oil from start to finish?