I am thinking of using this for a "truck" gun and was wondering how tough it is and how hard it is to apply. Brownell's states that it's pretty much rust proof when built up heavily. What's your opinion?
Thanks,
Todd

I have found that it works well but does not blue as darkly as 44-40 cold blue. Repeated applications will help. I get what ever I am cold bluing as hot as possible before I blue it. This helps alot. As you may know but I need to mention------ Totally cleaned and degreased. If you don't have a place to glass bead it for you, you can use a coarse wire wheel to make a nice matte surface and possibly ad a little design to it if you wanted. Good luck with you project.
SAM

Boltgun,

Here is the best trick ever for cold bluing compounds- apply it with a toothbrush, and really scrub it in, just keep scrubbing it into the steel. It gives a much better coverage than wiping it on, you have to try it to believe it! I've never tried getting the metal really hot, so can't comment on that. Of course, if you use a toothbrush you probably won't need to LOL.

My experience is similar to BIG SAM's.

If attractiveness is your main concern, hot-blueing or slow-rust blueing is the best way to go. 44-40 does a lesser job and Oxpho-Blue doesn't cut it.

For durability, I give the nod to Oxpho-Blue as it seems nearly impervious to the elements and costs much less than hot blueing.

Thru trial and error, the Oxpho-Blue Creme (there's a liquid form I haven't tried) seems to prefer some steels over others. I was able to get my USA made drill bits black, but not so successful with my firearms. On larger areas, like a handgun slide, there was an annoying electric-bluish sheen when held at an angle to the light. Not very pretty. (More on that later) I would use Oxpho only for covering up blemishes, scratches and items where looks don't count for anything.

Oxpho-Blue is VERY durable. I blued a pair of pliers that I use for saltwater fishing over a year ago and not a speck of rust has shown up yet. Dings don't seem to affect it as its just thrown into a tool box. I don't even bother to wash it off or re-oil it since it is Chinese made and easily replaceable. It too has a bluish sheen when held at an angle to the light. I don't think you want this for a firearm.

The ad in Brownells says that enough coats of Oxpho will cause water to puddle on it. I have found this claim to be absolutely true.

I use a hairdryer to heat whatever I'm cold blueing.

Use brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol or whatever degreaser you have on hand. Any oil present, while applying Oxpho, will slow down the chemical reaction, thus increasing the blueing time. Toothbrushes, Q-tips, a clean cloth and some OOO and OOOO steel wool are what I use to apply any cold blueing.

Apply the blueing in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and goggles.

The handgun slide was re-done in 44-40 after an arduous process of removing the Oxpho-Blue first. It now looks ALMOST as good as new. Don't know about 44-40's durability as its been only a year and I don't abuse my guns like I do my pliers!

I use the same procedures in applying 44-40 as I do for Oxpho-Blue.

I love the stuff. If you have all the Gunkinks books, they outline a process there.

1) It works best over matte finishes.

2) Get it clean. Ignore what it says on the bottle about applying through oil.

3) Completely degrease the object. Degrease a full pad of 0000 steel wool.

4) All of the rest of these steps are best done in a big industrial/garage sink. Wash the object in HOT soapy water. Dry it off quickly, to keep it hot.

5) Put on a pair of throwaway rubber gloves.

6) Pour a little OB (two tablespoons?) into a saucer. (I add one drop of Dawn to a pint of OB, it seems to wet better.)

7) Using a piece torn off the steel wool, apply the OB as evenly and rapidly as possible to the entire surface. Keep the entire surface wet with OB - never allowing it to dry out. Scrub over the entire surface as many times as you can stand it, rewetting the steel wool often. The steel wool will disentegrate and the OB will get contaminated with it. When you think one or both are used up, turn on the hot water and wash the object again, scrubbing with the remnants of the first piece of steel wool. Quickly dry the object, then liberally douche with WD40. Inspect.

Repeat the above steps until you like the results. A key is not to let the stuff ever completely dry.

From a bead blasted starting finish you will get an inky black matte finish on most steels.

I like it because I can repair/reblue after every season, and my guns usually need at least a tuch up. It is a great working finish, as it will NOT rust. (No, I never hunted SE Alaska!) It will still protect the steel even when worn down by handling to just a faint gray film.

{All I've ever used is the liquid form, just read a concurrent post about a cream.)

Don

[This message has been edited by Don G (edited 01-06-2002).]

What is this "truck" gun? My recipe for a
"truck gun" finish is a bit different than most but it is tough.

(1) Sandblast the exterior. (protect the bore & chamber from the sand)

(2) Prime with Rustolium primer.

(3) Spray paint with flat or satin finish
EPOXY paint the color of your liking

This is a cheap, quick & easily restorable finish for what I call a knock a round truck or boat gun. Im not suggesting doing this to a high dollar gun here folks!

------------------
NRA Life member

Boltgun,
Bear Claw brings up a good point. I have used Brownwll's spray on Lacquer and Teflon finishes with much sucess. You have to be able to BAKE the parts once sprayed. I've had some to be more durable than bluing. Suggest the teflon coating if you have moving parts such as a slide. You can also get a variety of colors if you feel like creating something unique.
All the best,
SAM

The gun in question is a Winchester 94 in 30-30. I'm going to buy a set of Ramline plastic stocks and may have the barrel shortened to 16" and rechambered to the Ackley version. I will probably redo the sights also. If this blueing project works out, I'm going to redo a BPS 10 gauge that I use for a backup gun for duck hunting.
I refinished this shotgun earlier this year using gunkote. I bead blasted and followed all the directions except for the abrasive courseness. The gun is the stalker model and was already fairly rough. I will never again use gunkote for anything. The action was slick as glass but I guess that the gunkote built up and now it feels stiff. Also the finish is soft as hell and looks worse now than the 6 year original finish did when it was recoated. Live and learn.
Thanks for all replies.
Todd