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JB Weld as bedding compound
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My acraglas has gotten old and I haven’t been able to find any Devcon. Any problems using JB Weld as bedding compound? Not sure of its shrinkage ration.


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Posts: 981 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: 06 February 2011Reply With Quote
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Brownells steel bed. Buy the best and cry once!
 
Posts: 1470 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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I have used it several times and have never had any problems.


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Posts: 1234 | Location: South Texas | Registered: 12 July 2005Reply With Quote
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I have never tried it but I wouldn't be surprised if JB Weld isn't better. Look at the characteristics of it. On the internet.
 
Posts: 17364 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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Put your Brownells Acraglas Gel Resin in the microwave for a few seconds. It will return to butter smooth. I have never had the hardener get lumpy, etc, nor do I know if the microwave is an option for that. It is a pure assumption on my part that you have Acraglas Gel, as not many use the plain old Acraglas anymore.


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Posts: 1625 | Location: Potter County, Pennsylvania | Registered: 22 June 2005Reply With Quote
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If one used JB Weld, what would you use as a release agent?


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Posts: 17357 | Location: Austin, Texas | Registered: 11 March 2013Reply With Quote
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Ive used it 2 or 3 times with good results. Use Kiwi shoe polish as a release agent couple of coats lightly buffed. Works good.
 
Posts: 206 | Location: North Alabama | Registered: 13 January 2006Reply With Quote
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All I use for bedding is jb weld. Wood stocks or fiberglass. Tried all that other stuff, won't go back.

For release agent I use a can of Johnson paste wax I've had for years.
 
Posts: 42419 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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I like Devcon steel. Good stuff.

For a release agent, i use Hornady one-shot case lube. Put it on in several coats. Easy.
 
Posts: 7825 | Registered: 31 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Funny, I, too, only use Johnson's paste wax for release agent, since 1970 at least. If a kit comes with the blue goop release, throw that away. You will need some modeling clay to put into any recess so you don't lock the metal in.
 
Posts: 17364 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I've used Pam cooking spray as a release agent with jb weld. Works fine


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Posts: 4 | Location: Texas | Registered: 03 January 2020Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Funny, I, too, only use Johnson's paste wax for release agent, since 1970 at least. If a kit comes with the blue goop release, throw that away. You will need some modeling clay to put into any recess so you don't lock the metal in.


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Posts: 2361 | Location: KENAI, ALASKA | Registered: 10 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I’ve always used JPW applied with a chip brush as my release agent and lately have used plumbers putty instead of modeling clay.


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Posts: 981 | Location: Middle Georgia | Registered: 06 February 2011Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
Funny, I, too, only use Johnson's paste wax for release agent, since 1970 at least. If a kit comes with the blue goop release, throw that away. You will need some modeling clay to put into any recess so you don't lock the metal in.


tu2
 
Posts: 42419 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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I've used jbw with no problems, johnson's paste wax as release agent, I've also used devcon but prefer j-b weld.


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quote:
Originally posted by NormanConquest:
If one used JB Weld, what would you use as a release agent?


The same things that work with comercial "glass bed" compounds aka epoxy


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Posts: 7361 | Location: South East Missouri | Registered: 23 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Devcon is the one we use.

Either steel or Titanium.

Never failed.

Any wax can be used as a release agent.

Just make sure you apply it properly.


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Posts: 69048 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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I used JB Weld to fill an irregular space under a one-piece leupold scope base when sporterizing a Mauser.
Used 4 layers of car wax as a release agent. Filled the spaces i wanted to protect with Play Doh[Hot Pink!] i bummed off the neighbor kids.
Used new JB and did a test on how the release agent worked in metal/metal surfaces and in metal/wood surfaces.
Worked really well.
 
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Posts: 2140 | Registered: 28 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I use Devcon 10110. never failed, nice to work with. If it gets old and stiff in the container, put the container in a pot of hot tap water for 15 minutes.


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Posts: 3416 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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works fine, use any wax or mold release for a release agent - steelstick works too, you can get that at the autoparts store ...

assuming you are using it for point bedding, not full length

marinetex gray is still the best


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Posts: 39924 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Off topic a bit.

Don't know if its the same thing as way back when such stuff first came out.

Our back porch when poured in 1947 had either a piece of wood or clump of mud I dug out. 3/4" deep and about 2" dia.

I used "liquid steel" to fill it up with, late 50's when that was done.

IN 2000, I pulled the carpet up and put new down. That patch was still in place. It's gotten to 110F many summers and down to -30F a bunch of times over these years and it's still a
good solid patch.

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Posts: 6057 | Location: Pueblo, CO | Registered: 31 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Has anybody ever had any of the various epoxies used as bedding compounds not work?

In the past 40 years, I've seen it go from Acraglas (the only thing that supposedly would work then) to marine epoxies, to Devcon, to Acraglass gel, to various other cheaper competitors, with localized favorites on different internet boards. Plus, all kinds of fillers: stainless steel, aluminum, glass beads, fiberglass chaff, plastic fluff, etc.

The only bedding that I've really seen fail is the factory goo that winchester put in some of their stocks. Plus, an occasional skin failure of thin layers under an action where the prep wasn't sufficient.

Personally, I've used Acraglas and the gel, pro-bed 2000, devcon, marine epoxy, epoxy from ace, and used fiberglass filler (usually made it myself by cutting insulation with scissors) and the hollow beads. It all has worked fine. Used every kind of random release material I have on hand, and generally like green turtle wax for visibility reasons. They have all worked for me.
 
Posts: 1120 | Location: Eastern Oregon | Registered: 02 December 2007Reply With Quote
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That's a good point, ssdave, I bet it all works. Maybe the one that is the easiest to work with is the one to get.


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Posts: 3416 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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The jb weld is super easy to work with, after bedding I throw it into the mill vise and it machines great......

The other type epoxies ......not so much....gooey messes.....JB machines like soft aluminum.
 
Posts: 42419 | Location: Crosby and Barksdale, Texas | Registered: 18 September 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ssdave:
Has anybody ever had any of the various epoxies used as bedding compounds not work?

In the past 40 years, I've seen it go from Acraglas (the only thing that supposedly would work then) to marine epoxies, to Devcon, to Acraglass gel, to various other cheaper competitors, with localized favorites on different internet boards. Plus, all kinds of fillers: stainless steel, aluminum, glass beads, fiberglass chaff, plastic fluff, etc.

The only bedding that I've really seen fail is the factory goo that winchester put in some of their stocks. Plus, an occasional skin failure of thin layers under an action where the prep wasn't sufficient.

Personally, I've used Acraglas and the gel, pro-bed 2000, devcon, marine epoxy, epoxy from ace, and used fiberglass filler (usually made it myself by cutting insulation with scissors) and the hollow beads. It all has worked fine. Used every kind of random release material I have on hand, and generally like green turtle wax for visibility reasons. They have all worked for me.


No.

I have used all the Brownell's offerings.

have used others sold here for pipe repair in the oil industry, and several of the Devcon products.

All worked, and frankly, I have no idea if anyone is better than the others.

Just out of choice, I prefer to use the Titanium products.

We must have used them in literally hundreds of jobs.

Never a failure


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Posts: 69048 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Saeed, Are the Titanium products a Devcon product? Thanks, Brian


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Posts: 3416 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Brian Canada:
Saeed, Are the Titanium products a Devcon product? Thanks, Brian


Yes.

They have all sorts of metals too.


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Posts: 69048 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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Saeed, Thanks. B


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Posts: 3416 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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I have been using Devcon Plastic Welder for the ABS knife scabbards and like it.


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Posts: 3416 | Location: Kamloops, BC | Registered: 09 November 2015Reply With Quote
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I use Marine Tex and Johnsons wax most of the time, It all good if you apply it properly..

I use apply the mixture to the stock then using a hair dryer, dry it until its shines and soft, they attach all together, with the heat applied you get no bubbles or imperfections.


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Posts: 42203 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Any epoxy can "work".
You need near zero shrinkage (this varies), hardness and compressive strength.

I've used JB on a couple of my own rifles if I didn't have Devcon, but not a first choice.

I prefer the Devcon 10110 as do many others here, but I know many smiths also like grey Marine-Tex.
I've seen testing showing less shrinkage than Devcon.

But, having used huge quantities of Marine-Tex in boat building/repair it is far more sensitive to mix ratio than Devcon in my experience.
 
Posts: 83 | Registered: 19 March 2017Reply With Quote
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Does JB Weld attach to wood well? I've never tried it on wood. I use a spray mold release with two coats on all metal surfaces. And sometimes Johnsons paste on some stuff.

God Bless, Louis
 
Posts: 1381 | Location: Mountains of North Carolina | Registered: 14 January 2008Reply With Quote
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JB Weld and Devcon steel work just fine but they will be degraded by Hoppes #9. Same with Acraglas Gel. The old standard Acraglas is impervious to Hoppes. I have heard that Belzona is an excellent product but I have not tested it. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3828 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bill Leeper:
JB Weld and Devcon steel work just fine but they will be degraded by Hoppes #9. Same with Acraglas Gel. The old standard Acraglas is impervious to Hoppes. I have heard that Belzona is an excellent product but I have not tested it. Regards, Bill.


Belzona makes exceptional products for the oil industry.

I have tried some a while back and they worked very well.

I find Deacon is easier to get through Amazon delivered to the door so I use that one.


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Posts: 69048 | Location: Dubai, UAE | Registered: 08 January 1998Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by youngoutdoors:
Does JB Weld attach to wood well? I've never tried it on wood. I use a spray mold release with two coats on all metal surfaces. And sometimes Johnsons paste on some stuff.

God Bless, Louis


Odds are you'd never have an issue,all these epoxies bond to wood. When I bed a wood stock I do go an extra step further...
I mix up a small batch of West System, and give a quick brushing of the liquid epoxy over the wood...it'll soak into the grain and provide a better bond. Once it's tacky, I'll go ahead with the bedding compound over it.

Just how I do it...
 
Posts: 83 | Registered: 19 March 2017Reply With Quote
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That is a great tip!

quote:
Originally posted by Big Gorilla Gunworks:
quote:
Originally posted by youngoutdoors:
Does JB Weld attach to wood well? I've never tried it on wood. I use a spray mold release with two coats on all metal surfaces. And sometimes Johnsons paste on some stuff.

God Bless, Louis


Odds are you'd never have an issue,all these epoxies bond to wood. When I bed a wood stock I do go an extra step further...
I mix up a small batch of West System, and give a quick brushing of the liquid epoxy over the wood...it'll soak into the grain and provide a better bond. Once it's tacky, I'll go ahead with the bedding compound over it.

Just how I do it...
 
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