http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9blvsPF_uCE

I found this Midway video very interesting. I was wondering if i should do this for 1910 Mannlicher Schoenauer stock.

I would like to know of others who have done this to their new stocks and your comments.

I have done a variation of this method since the early '70s, on almost all my 1-piece stocks. Nothing but good things to report, one of the best decisions I ever made.
Regards, Joe

I've never thought it necessary unless there's a problem with the layout of the stock.

i have to agree with joe once again. I do it automatically to one piece stocks. Just have seen to many crack at the wrist & it's such an easy thing to do while you're building the stock, and such a cusser to do after it cracks latter

I have been considering doing this on a .375 H&H I have and a Supergrade stock.
The video didn't detail the best place to begin the hole/drilling I am wondering if there is a "best" place to start?

I stopped using metal for this application in heavy recoiling rifles. Found epoxy and straight grained walnut "give" or "flex" under recoil.... with better results over time. Teacher was Weatherby stock in 300 Weathery Mag. It had been repaired three times with metal before I was asked to repair it. Each time it broke ahead of the steel pins in a new place after the former repair. I make sure the dowel goes through to the magazine box inletting. That way I may drill the rear take down screw hole incorporating the dowel into the recoil absorbsion attributes of the wrist area.

Dennis
Thanks, interestingly enough I've been thinking the same thing about some "flex" being the best option. In my mind that seems to be the answer.
I was on the fence as to whether the tang bolt or the magazine box would be the proper terminus.

I agree with Earl...nice fat hard wood dowel works better than steel.

However, I almost never do it because I just won't make a stock with questionable grain through the wrist.

For real balls out re-inforcement, pretty hard to beat extended rtangs

I have done both (wood and metal). I think metal does better than wood if splitting is the concern. Even with a properly bedded lug, you will sometimes get cracks starting. If using wood, which I prefer overall, try to orient the grain in the dowel at 90 degrees to the grain in the wrist. It will greatly add to the antisplitting protection of the dowel.

use brass rod or stainless..
and this is exactly what i mean by axial wrist pin

Thanks guys. The wood dowel idea is cool.

I was thinking of using a piece off a fishing rod - carbon fibre & epoxy mix - to keep the weight down.

I have a featherweight Husky that broke in two at the wrist. I glued it back together using acraglass. It seems to be holding but I do not trust it. I was thinking of using a hickory dowel through the wrist since hickory seems to be a stronger wood than walnut. Also was planning on using as large a dowel as possible, something like around 1 inch. Do you guys think using a dowel this large is a good idea?

Hart

Think about using a piece of G-10 tubing or rod.
The reason stocks break is due to the unpredictability of the material. Using another piece of wood is still unpredictable.

To my way of thinking a small metal rod down the middle is not the best solution. A larger diameter tubing would work or 4 small rods evenly spaced far apart as possible would also be ok.

Hart