I first found out about this caliber here on AR. I then stumbled on an old Husky in the bacl of a shop in Mesa AZ. This started as a nice barrel action fitted in a shaped 2x4. It was not the original stock, just something someone used a dremmel to make it sorta fit. It cracked after about 10-15 shots, although I had no intention to keep it in that

I ordered a 95% inletted stock for a Mauser 98. When I received the stock I installed a new tip & cap as well as some decorative cross bolt style inlays made of African Wenge.


Also spent hours sanding while watching movies (vaccuumed the sawdust up later)

I glass-bedded the action and floated the barrel.

For my first real gunsmithing job on one of my rifles, I installed a new trigger and low 2 position safety, both by Timney.

I had it drill & tapped for a scope and had the bolt reshaped for scope clearance.

I also installed Warne QR rings and a Weaver 4x Scope I had on another rifle - it's about 40 years old.

I took it to the range and it shot like a charm. Not alot of recoil but that was expected since it weighs 9 lbs. I used the cheap ammo from Graf & sons and they grouped well during sight in. Grouped about 1.5 inches at 100yds and 3+ inches at 200yds.


Not bad for a 60+ yr old barrel and a 40+ yr old Scope.
I hope to take my first elk with it this year.


This is my first complete project and my second restocking job. This is my first attempt at restocking.

If you can't get the Photobucket thing working you can email me some pictures to post. My email address is in my profile.

Enjoy the 9.3!

Photos added

You know, with some higher dollar ammo and a higher-power scope you might cut those groups by half, but the elk will likely not notice it.

I like that fore-end.

quote:

Originally posted by Charles_Helm:
You know, with some higher dollar ammo and a higher-power scope you might cut those groups by half, but the elk will likely not notice it.

I like that fore-end.

I've got 2 months to work up a load - planning on 286gr Barnes TSX.

Now get your some checkering tools and learn the rest of it. Two very nice rifles and all they need is some checkering to be perfect.

Great work!!!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Riodot:
I've got 2 months to work up a load - planning on 286gr Barnes TSX.

Consider the 250-grain North Forks as well. I feel like a broken record!

quote:

Originally posted by duikerman:
Now get your some checkering tools and learn the rest of it. Two very nice rifles and all they need is some checkering to be perfect.

Great work!!!!!

That is the next plan - a winter project.

Riodot , Thats a model 146 husqvarna.

Those are very nice rifles.

Do you want to part with the old stock?


Rick

22WRF:

That is an idea I had myself (removing the slot)and making a smoother line at the wrist. I will probably look into that and draw it out after hunting season. I need to do that before I checker.

I never thought about the wood at the sides of the triggerguard - good idea - I'll look for that on reference photos I have - Thanks for the feedback.

quote:

Originally posted by GSP7:
Riodot , Thats a model 146 husqvarna.

Those are very nice rifles.

Do you want to part with the old stock?


Rick

Rick,

Yes it is a model 146 by my research.

as far as the old stock, Sure, but I'm not kidding, it's pretty ugly

PM me

Lance

Nicely done!
How do you like the closed grip? I find them to help for a "Rested" shooting position...

1.5moa, not bad at all!!

jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
Riodot

The first would be that most custom gunmakers I have ever studied usually will carefully take down the rear sear slot at the end. The do it very gradually and gracefully and what ends up happening is that you then don't have to make that indentation in the stock for the bolt to travel, which means that the stock is just a bit slimmer and more graceful at that junction.
Customstox, who posts here regularly, is a Master at that. If you study his stocks you can see that his grips are very graceful and one of the reasons is because he takes down that tang (or sear slot) or whatever you want to call it. Here is a photo of one of Customstox's mauser creations that shows it perfectly. See how just by taking that metal down a little bit it changes the gracefulness of the stock.

Just to clarify 22WRF's comment, the metal is taken from the top of the rear tang, on either side of the "sear slot". The top surfaces of the tang are tapered down to approach the same level as the bottom of the slot. This should be done using a file with the receiver (sans bolt)in the stock. This way the wood and metal are removed together.

Glen71: Is there a prefered type of file you use since you are cutting both metal & wood at the same time? Single or double cut flat file??

jeffeosso:
The more closed grip fits me well. I am finding that the morean of sx open the grip the more the more trouble I have with the arthritis that seems to be creeping into my wrist.

The stock on my T/C Encore seems to fit me best of all.

I have always been a big fan of english style SXS shotguns with the straight stock. Now that I can afford one, they hurt too much to shoot. My wrist won't bend thaat way anymore. Crap!!

Riodot,
Nicely done sir!

I have a fairly big hand, but short fingers, the open grips cause me to naturally place my finger clear up to the top, have to force it down. I like them a little more closed like a McMillan synthetic, not as closed as a 700 Rem. A stock Ruger 77 MkII works well for me also. Pop an elk with that 9.3x62 and enjoy the whap of that big bullet on his shoulder. I love that sound.