I have a claro/black walnut quarter sawn stock iam putting the first coat of true oil on now.It has dried 2 days and is slightly tacky in a couple places.I put the tru-oil on without cutting it,directions said drying time 2 hours-yea right!.The wood has really soaked it up.My question is this,The figure and fiddleback is outstanding on this wood,but the pores and grain looks like a cork .I mean it is everywhere thru out the stock,just little black lines and teany tiny holes,it doesnt look bad,its just that there are lots of them,more than i ever seen before on a stock.I think it looks good like it is.Sorta like wormy oak.? It really gives it character and makes it look old timey. Can i just keep building coats of the tru-oil and will the tru-oil fill the grains up like the bottle says and i will not have to wet sand?Is this ever done or is this a less than desirable short cut?Will filling the grains with mud from wet sanding hide any of the desirable grains or can i just wet sand spots and not the whole stock?
Also the sides of the back/butte area and cheek area are fine like they are and really dont need any sanding or anything done,can i just wet sand the forward area where the cork looking grain is ?You know kinda hit the high spots,or should i sand the whole stock anyway even if it looks good already?When i say sand i just mean make the mud and wipe filling the pores.
I have R.L.Wilson book titled WINCHESTER an American Legend.The stock iam working on will go on a pre 64 model 70 in 30-06.
Looking thru the winchester book there is dozens of old winchesters that have this rough porious look to them.One in paticular that favors mine is on page 205,it is the police 308 second from top.I think i like this rough look myself,if i wanted a smooth plywood look i would buy a cheaper plain no figure/character stock or plastic stock?Is this going against stock finishing rules?As long as i build up the coats-say 3 hand rubbed in,will this be acceptable or should i still sand back to wood after my 3 coats are dry and set?Iam looking for the dull hand rubbed oil finish.
I have noticed lots of winchester stocks in my book have a satin shine to them as if they were lightly sprayed with a clear coat of something.Is this from the finish or have they been sprayed with polyurathane.
Before i go any farther,since i just have put the very first coat on ,when its dry should i wet sand or keep building hand rubbed coats?I wish i could just post pics instead of trying to explain in words,as the pics would show the varying degrees of finishes that i have seen in my stock finishing studys...I have gone this far with everyones help and i thank you guys,you are the best!
oh yea it been a fun project!!!

step 1...
take a terry cloth and rub the oil.. most of the tacky will come off.

step 2
do you have any 300 grit? use a MUD COAT by sanding the oil, lightly, into the stock.. the dust will fill the pores.. leave the stock fairly wet when you are done.

you might need to repeat this step.

step 3... let this dry for 2 days,
or till not tacky...


buff (you might need steel wool.. degrease it first) the stock... even it out... oil it again...

my wife does a minimum of 6 coats, normally 8-12

jeffe

Rub it down with a rag soaked and squeezed in Mineral spirits...Now cut the finish 50-50 with mineral spirits....

Sand the stock down to wood and start over...soak it in the cut mix until it its shiney all over and has taken all it will take, wipe lightly and set up for two weeks, then using the 50-50 mix start your finishing by wet sanding with Mineral spirits mixed with the 50-50 mix, again 50-50 so its mostly mineral spirits..Use 220 and build a mud then rub in cross grain with fingers and let stand 24 hours (it ugly but filling pores) then wet sand with 320 and do same but add some finish, then sand with 360 and lightly wipe off mud residue with the grain and apply finish, wet sand with 400 and wipe off lightly and apply more finish, keep it up until you get the disired finish and stand for a week then run down with rottenstone and 50-50 mixed into a paste, and wipe clean...apply wax.

Jeff,
I never use steel wool on wood, if you will use a magnifying glass you will see minute parts of steel fibers in your finished gun, those will in time rust and pop out you finish...better to use wet sanding all the way....Just my opine.

Thanks for the quick replys!!!
I will follow these directions to the letter.My stock is going to look soooo nice!!!!
Have a great memorial day weekend everyone!

Ray,
your way seems to work, to..

steelwool wont do a thing to the stock.. as they'll be sealed IN the finish, if you do't get them all out..

the other coats will even out the finish.. but, scotch brights work too

jeffe

but ray was talking about finishing spear handles

water penetrates ANY stock finish, and it will rust steel wool particles that will always be in the finish. I Never use steel wool on a stock.

Okay Marc, Ray...
do it your way, i'll do it mine... which is just how the directions on the can suggest