I have a fiberglas stock for my old model Ruger 77 that I want to fit as I refinish the original walnut stock. As I've inletted the stock to fit, I find that the barrel channel is much larger than the barrel (about 1/4 inch on each side). The forearm is also a little warped. Any suggestions to filling the barrel channel to reduce the sloppy fit? Also, any tips on straightening the forearm? Doesn't have to be pretty since this is a back up stock. Your help appreciated. Bob

I've done this before, and it wasn't hard (anybody should be able to do this if I did!).

Make sure that the barrel clears the stock by your desired gap everywhere (I'm assuming you want a free-floated barrel). If not, sand yourself some clearance. In my experience, you can't straighten a wooden or fibreglass forearm without creating a lot of stresses, so we aren't going to try!

Put multiple layers of tape on barrel. You want the tape to be the thickness of the gap between barrel and stock that you wish to have. Put the tape lengthwise up the barrel, don't wrap around it (we want it nice and smooth along the edges where the barrel meets the stock.

Coat the tape well with release agent, then after roughing up the barrel channel REAL well with something like a Dremel tool, glass bed the barrel full-length. Acraglass from Brownell's ( www.brownells.com ) is my favourite.

After the glass cures, remove the tape and you should have a nice uniform gap between your barrel and the stock.

I've even used this on wooden stocks with suitably-dyed Acraglas. Of course it isn't perfect, but it looks better than a huge uneven gap which is how it looked when I got the rifle.

Don't forget the release agent! (Johnson's paste wax is the one I like).

jpb

Rather than tape I've always used 2-4 layers of wax paper. Works well.

Wally

On synthetic stocks with hollow voids in the barrel channel, I've filled the channels with styrofoam before bedding as described in the first post, otherwise you'd end up using an extra pound or so of Acraglass.

When using the accuplass as a filler I go to the hobby shop and get the little bead filler material used by airplane modeler. You mix it with the glass and it works as filler reducing weight and amount of glass you need. In a pinch I've taken a course rasp to the green foam block they use for flower arranging (got it a wally world) use the shavings as a filler. Use as little epoxy as you can get away with and still coat everything. You are not looking for strength only filling a void.

Rather than tape I've always used 2-4 layers of wax paper.

That black pipe wrap tape. It looks like giant electrical tape. No wrinkles, smooth job.

Are you guys doing this before or after bedding the action?? I have a Rem 700 that I am waiting to steel bed, but would also like to fill the barrel channel for a nicer fit. The stock is a wood ADL.

The ideas for making a floated, yet smooth and uniform finish in the channel are very helpful. I just need to know whether I bed the action first.

Thanks.

If you would like to take that warp out of the forearm it is not difficult. And if it induces some stress in that portion and it is free floated so what.

Cut a channel down the center of the bottom of the barrel channel. Fill it with epoxy and insert a redibolt ( all thread - threaded rod) about 1/3 the channel width or less. You have to establish how much you have to bend the forend the opposite way to get it to the straight position. Now bend it just a bit more and hold it in that position with clamps until the epoxy is good and hard, like 3 days. Your warp should be gone.

The same thing can be done with wood but you can also bend wood stocks with the proper technique.

Chic

Thanks, guys, great suggestions and doable in my garage. This is why is use the forums. Bob