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Relieving forend pressure
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My daughter has a twin to my Rem 700 CDL SF Limited in 260 Rem. I put some 'smithing money into mine; trigger, freefloat barrel, touch up crown, pillar/glass bed, and it shoots like no other rifle I've ever owned. Didn't have the money to put into my daughters so I'm doing few things myself. Have already lightened the X-Pro trigger to 2-1/4 lbs; easy!

Now, I've noticed the groups from her's string out horizontally so I've decided to releive the forend pressure. Their are two raised areas approx .66" long sitting just behind the forend cap. Each sits to the left/right of the swivel stud screw. I think Remington did well with this design so their is just a small area of upward pressure. This way it's comes built with upward pressure for those who want it yet can easilily be removed for those who don't want it.

My question; is simply sanding the offending area the best way to proceed? Would I just take a wooden dowel of a correct diameter, wrap with sand paper and gently work the area? What diameter wooden dowel? What grit sand paper? Then seal with my Dembart's wood sealer?

First pic shows the raised areas on each side of the swivel screw. These are about .660" long.


Not as good a view from the front. You can just see each raised area to the left and right of the tiny shiny spot which I believe is the top the the swivel screw.


Alan
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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I have removed the "pressure" bumps just as you suggest, using a dowel that is similiar in dia. as the barrel channel. Grit around 220 & seal when done. You need to relieve the barrel to about 1 & 1/2inch infont of the receiver to the point you can slide a dollar bill all the way. Another way is to just remove the bumps and shim the action for and aft the thickness of a playing card, this lifts the action, barrel & relieves stress the action may be under - similiar to pillar bedding without the pillars.FWIW --- John303
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
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My question; is simply sanding the offending area the best way to proceed? Would I just take a wooden dowel of a correct diameter, wrap with sand paper and gently work the area? What diameter wooden dowel? What grit sand paper?

Usually makes quick work of it. Diameter is not that critical If you get too big you risk hitting the top of the barrel channel. Something in the medium grit works for me. Doesn't have to be perfect just clear of the barrel. Yep then seal it. A stock finish. External varnish.


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I think you are creating a problem you haven't considered. If you do releave the upward pressure and any other corrective tasks, there is a high probability of her being able to out shoot you; possibly in a public setting. Best leave just a little something amiss.
 
Posts: 1078 | Location: Mentone, Alabama | Registered: 16 May 2005Reply With Quote
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Do as you planned, but you might have to re-shim up front to get the pressure point back (after shooting with even worse results).

Actually, now would be the time to bed the rifle. If bedding it doesn't improve it you can then remove the pressure point completely / free-float the barrel. And, if that isn't an improvement, put the pressure point back.

Sometimes it is just a load thing, not the barrel...


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Posts: 4899 | Location: Bryan, Texas | Registered: 12 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by John303.:
Another way is to just remove the bumps and shim the action for and aft the thickness of a playing card, this lifts the action, barrel & relieves stress the action may be under - similiar to pillar bedding without the pillars.


No disrespect intended John303, but based on your post, I don't think you have much of a grasp on the subject of pillar bedding. You might want to research that a little bit.


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Well, I know very little about this stuff but a dollar bill is not enough clearance.

The idea is for the bbl to be free floated and not hit the bbl channel when the gun fires.

That requires more than a dollar bills worth of clearance.

More like 3-4 pieces of note book papers worth.


Mike

Legistine actu quod scripsi?

Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.




What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10181 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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Westpac: No offence taken, always willing to learn, could please post your take om pillar bedding for my benefit & possibly others / suggest a site on the subject. ---John303.
 
Posts: 288 | Registered: 26 January 2008Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by John303.:
Westpac: No offence taken, always willing to learn, could please post your take om pillar bedding for my benefit & possibly others / suggest a site on the subject. ---John303.


Here is but one of a gazillion discussions on the topic on this forum alone. It doesn't tell how to do it, it just gives a general description of pillar and glass bedding.

http://forums.accuratereloadin...=111101115#111101115


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Pics are now posted.

By the way, WestPac is the 'smith who did the work on my rifle. Goooood work! I'd have him do my daugher's rifle as well but 7 months of unemployement will cause a guy to try his own 'smithing when desperate.

Alan
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by GSSP:
but 7 months of unemployement will cause a guy to try his own 'smithing when desperate.

Alan


I have two kids in the Army so I have developed a more tolerant, less abrasive side when dealing with Army folks, so, if you want, you're welcome to come scrub some guns for the work. Big Grin Seriously, I hope you are doing fine!


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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I got the two bumps totally cleared out but am having a dickens of a time with the black forend cap. Near the tip, over on one side just keeps messing with me. Aaaahhhh! knife

Two kids in the Army and a Marine. salute

Alan
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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You might find that the forend walks to one side once the "tabs" are removed and you begin getting the barrel to float. Let it walk as far as it will and then continue to open that side until the gap is uniform. You might need to up the grit to 180 to cut that black crap. If you're still having a problem, stop by and let's eyeball it. No charge to look! Smiler


_______________________________________________________________________________
This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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Hey Malm, thanks!

Using 120 grit at the moment.

Alan
 
Posts: 1719 | Location: Utah | Registered: 01 June 2004Reply With Quote
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