quote:

Originally posted by AFreeman:
I tend to cut the teak oil 50/50 with mineral spirits and add about 5 drops of cobalt to about two cups of the above mixture.
If using Japan Drier, I generally treat it like mineral spirits or I will go about 30% JP and 70% teak oil finish.

Try some naptha for thinner. It dries in a flash compared to mineral spirits and is compatible with most drying oils.

Brando said:


Posted 13 September 2010 23:03 Hide Post
Question...

"If one was to start finishing there stock. And went though alot of these steps of making sure the pours in the wood are filled with the desired stain, oil or whatever your using. And when the end result comes up you do not like it. How hard is it to remove the finish and start over? Or is that pretty much the end of that once the finish is filled into the pours."


It depends on the finish. If you hand rub a finish in you can usually remove it with a chemical stripper and a light sanding. If it is driven in with pressure or sucked in with vacuum, you may have to sand off an 1/8 inch or so to start over. If possible, obtain some sample scraps of the same piece of wood and experiment before doing the stock.

Anybody tried this product?

http://www.fairtrimmers.com/index.html

Looks like some good colors and the tinting flexibility is nice.

Is Your Tung Oil REALLY Tung Oil?

The term “tung oil” has been used improperly by so many manufacturers that most people are misinformed and confused as to what Tung Oil really is. Tung oil is extracted from the nut of the Tung Tree. In its natural form, Tung Oil is unsuitable for wood finishing, but in its polymerized state it becomes and ideal finishing product. Most “tung oil finishes” actually contain little or no tung oil. They are often formulated with linseed, soy or paraffin oils which tend to dry poorly and fail to form a hard and durable surface. These inferior oils develop a gummy build-up when additional coats are applied. In fact, linseed oil, the most commonly used additive, disintegrates and blackens with time – making it a very poor choice for wood finishing!

The same confusion exists when manufacturers refer to their tung oil being Polymerized. Polymerization is a “cooking” process that changes the molecular structure of pure, raw Tung Oil and that when combined with solvents allows the oil to penetrate the wood and improve its workability. The question is, how extensive is the “cook” and what solvents are being added? Depending on the formulation, it is not uncommon for manufacturers to use such additives as varnishes and urethanes in order to improve the hardness, durability, and luster of the finish. But in doing so, this adds to the toxicity of the finish, inhibits the penetration of the oil into the wood fibers, and can adversely affect the drying and curing time.
Why Buy Anything Else?

Sutherland Welles products contain absolutely no Linseed Oil whatsoever! The Sutherland Welles polymerization process is the most extensive and thorough in the industry. Our process takes the “cook” to its maximum thermal threshold thereby maximizing the bonding of the oil to the wood and increasing durability. After polymerization, the oil is combined with solvents to allow the oil to penetrate the wood and improve its workability.

Sutherland Welles Ltd.® uses nothing but the “cleanest” solvents and the lowest toxic driers available. In fact, the Botanical line is made with no petroleum distillates, is 99.9% plant derived, and is the perfect choice for butcher block counter tops, cutting boards, and anything where having the lowest toxicity products possible is important.

Sutherland Welles Tung Oil will give you that “hand-rubbed” look, yet is hard and flexible, waterproof, and impervious to alcohol. And the best of all, the finish will become more beautiful with time and requires very little maintenance.


100% tung oil
# 100% Tung Oil brand, not meant as a gloss or a heavy finish, penetrates the wood to help with water resistance and to enhance the color of you teak furniture. Pure tung oil comes from cold pressing the nuts of the Tung tree with no preservatives, additives or distillates. 100% Pure tung oil is available in three grades, from one to three. It's best to use Grade 1 yellow. The better the quality of the tung oil, the shorter the drying time and the better the color. It also raises the level of protection to your teak wood furniture. Tung oil aids in the elasticity of your wood, protecting it from breakage and damage from the elements.
Watco teak oil
# Watco Teak Oil penetrates your teak furniture to create the hand rubbed finish you want for your wood. Watco Teak Oil is easy to use because it can be sprayed on if you don't want to wipe it on. Watco brand gives a water resistant finish and helps to lengthen the life of your wood. Watco Teak Oil offers resistance to ultra violet light and can be used on your outdoor teak furniture as well as on indoor furniture. Watco Teak Oil, made by Rust-oleum, is available at your local hardware, department or home improvement store.


Smiths CPES Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer is the ultimate wood fiber

locking formula , which still allows an oil finish to be placed over it .

I had used it for years when restoring Chris Craft Runabouts bottom line IT WORKS !.

http://www.smithandcompany.org/more.htm

You may also enjoy reading this info concerning Wood protection an finishes .

http://cpedia.com/wiki?q=Marin...Siding+Cetol+Marine+

http://www.woodnshop.com/Watco_Teak%20_oil.htm

I'm not finishing hard wood floors, or working on a wooden boat. I'm simply finishing a rifle stock. I seen the TEAK for sale and picked it out of curiosity, and found it has some properties I want in a stock finish. What Adam said about DENSE grained wood he has come across, and this working well for him...well it should fit the bill and maybe fill a little deeper in the wood stock of my english walnut. I'll let you know the out come when its done. Mr. Fee man's expermints gives it a green light...
Again, Thanks for the post and your findings!

Understood you're finishing a Stock an that Stock is made from WOOD ;

The ultimate goal of anyone who is finishing or refinishing wood regardless of what that wood is used for

is the ULTIMATE PROTECTION against woods natural enemy's Water Mildew Rot an UV degradation ,

again regardless of how that is achieved . My point was there are far superior products on the market

too Watco Danish Oils . It was simply an informational posting's regarding wood protection .

An if one stops to consider what Floors withstand , one can then appreciate the protection

those finishes affords WOOD . Raining snowing high humidity and the Stocks not phased by it !!!.

quote:

An if one stops to consider what Floors withstand , one can then appreciate the protection

those finishes affords WOOD . Raining snowing high humidity and the Stocks not phased by it !!!.

I hear ya, and well I've seen some piss poor finishes on wood stocks, but I have never seen a rifle stock go rotten on anybody. I want the protection and a good clear finish and I can get that by useing True oil, but thought I'd give this a go.
I think Adam made a better stand as he has the results and showed them, to me the real research stands on its on! If it'll hold up to 3 years in the backyard it'll hold up to what I want it to do.
Doc, you seem to know more than I do, and looks like you did your reserch as well, for that information I thank you, stuff there thats new to me...

I often use cpes epoxy as a sealer (gasp) It's thin, the wood sucks it up nicely and I figure it makes for a durable finish. I top coat with Dalys Teak oil.

Does anybody know what makes Daly's Teak (Tung) oil different than anybody elses Teak (Tung) Oil?

If tung oil comes from the Tung tree, and tung oil is tung oil(obviously) then wouldn't all products that are actually tung oil be pretty much the same?

So that goes back to RogerR's theory, which is looking pretty good. That the quality of the finish, given that one uses Tung oil, is going to be determined by the method of the finish.

They all aren't 100% tung oil. I don't think there is one perfect method for everyone, everyone needs to find what works best for them.

In fact almost NONE are 100% Tung Oil . It really comes down to What an individual is looking for in a finish

and the degree of protection desired ; Coupled with ease of use and labor required .

This is for YOUR Information I would suggest reading the Product pages of Sutherland Welles

I'm certain each an everyone of you will be MORE than Happy ,an come away with a New found knowledge

of EXACTLY what is an what isn't in Wood Finishes .

Please do check the sections Products and Finishing Tips .


I have NO affiliation with either of these Links .

http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/homepage.html

http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/quart_pricing.htm

http://www.garrettwade.com/pro....01&bhcd2=1284679944

quote:

strax,
I recently finished a stock using Daleys Teak oil on Adams advice. I cannot be more pleased with how it came out

Thanks for that...as with any finish the more sweat you put in it the better the results, or so I have found.

Back in the day Earl Milliron told me that a hand rubbed oil finish consisted largely of dead skin and sweat