I am adding some wood to a 10-22 factory stock. Daughter is a lefty. I want to raise the comb and do a check piece. I was thinking glas bed to to fill the gaps/ssems but a skim coat of bondo might not give different textures to the paint. WIll it last? Will it stick? I think guys use it to adjust patterns. This will be sanded smooth and painted.

I would not use normal auto body bondo. I just use epoxy.

what Paul said..
there's a epoxy or fiberglass "bondo", that's not a brittle plastic

quote:

Originally posted by Blueprinted:
I am adding some wood to a 10-22 factory stock. Daughter is a lefty. I want to raise the comb and do a check piece.

If you mean "glue some wood to the existing stock", then the Bondo Polyester Fiberglass Resin will work right well. Think of it as a simple 2-part Epoxy.

It is normally applied to Flberglass Cloth and then the Resin soaked Cloth is applied to whatever you are working on. The "intended" design strength is in the Fiberglass Cloth, but the Resin works fine as a 2-part Epoxy on other things as well.

I "glued" a chunk of Concrete to another piece of concrete with the Resin just this past week.

Practice with something small first though to see how "quickly" the set-up time is for the product you are using. Once it begins to turn Blue, the set-up time is just about over.
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If however you mean to build up the existing wood using Bondo, then you need the Bondo Body Filler. You can build it up and form it into any shape you desire. But..., it is best to get the shape fairly close as you go, because sanding it into the final shape can be tricky if you have never used it. And it will be extremely dusty during the sanding phase.

If this is what you are talking about, give the Bondo Body Filler something to get a grasp on. Two-to-three short Screw-heads sticking out from the stock and then putting the Body Filler all around them will definitely hold it in place. You could also "undercut" a slot in the wood similar to a Dove-tail and fill it in as you build up the Body Filler.

Both products "work" differently. The Body Filler will allow you to "mold it" somewhat, where the Resin simply is intended to "glue" the Fiberglass Cloth in place.

quote:

I was thinking glas bed to to fill the gaps/ssems but a skim coat of bondo might not give different textures to the paint.

I'm not sure what you are saying.

quote:

WIll it last? Will it stick?

It just depends on how well it is applied. If you just slather it on a "slick" surface then the answer is no.

quote:

Originally posted by Blueprinted:
I am adding some wood to a 10-22 factory stock. Daughter is a lefty. I want to raise the comb and do a check piece. I was thinking glas bed to to fill the gaps/ssems but a skim coat of bondo might not give different textures to the paint. WIll it last? Will it stick? I think guys use it to adjust patterns. This will be sanded smooth and painted.

"Bondo" or synthetic body fillers are too soft to hold up for any structural parts of a gunstock. Properly used on cars it is only used for leveling surfaces in very thin layers. Of you get more than 1/4" or so thick it will start to crack. It will also chip around the edges. I've worked in Auto Body Shops for years and have seen plenty of chipped and cracked "bondo".
You would be better off gluing wood to the stock with Acraglass or other good epoxy and then use acra-glass gel or the like for your structure. You could then use "bondo" for a pit filler before painting.
Or you built up a cheekpeice with resin and Fiberglass cloth you could again use the "bondo" for a leveling pit filler...............DJ

Don't know about stocks but it glues your ass to a stool right well.

Or you could get one of the slip on or strap on cheekpieces from Blackhawk et al.

I typed that after a 16 hour day. Let me clarify. I am going to use screws and Gorilla glue to attach poplar to raise the comb make a cheek piece and widen the forearm a bit on the factory birch stock. I am then going to rasp/sand carve the attached wood into shape. The will be seems and small gaps that will need filled. As well as screw holes. I was concerned that accura-glass would not have the same texture as the wood. That would cause the seems and plugs to be visible after painting. I was going to put a skim coat of bondo or similar over the whole stock and sand smooth to even everthing out. My daughter does not like the ambi thumb holes and she is a lefty so I will have to get creative. I need some ideas before I start butchering wood (well a tree part, wood is fine walnut). She will not hunt this gun and has not interest but loves to shoot. So it will not be given any real hard use.

Well I have never added wood the tried to make it smooth. However I add to fiberglass stocks all the time. Some times you cut through the gell coat. Sometimes you cover over the floorplate opening. I use the epoxy as a gel coat. Stand it pretty smoth while the epoxy has not fully set. The do the finish sanding later.

quote:

Originally posted by Blueprinted:
... The will be seems and small gaps that will need filled. As well as screw holes. I was concerned that accura-glass would not have the same texture as the wood. That would cause the seems and plugs to be visible after painting. I was going to put a skim coat of bondo or similar over the whole stock and sand smooth to even everthing out. ...

I see. I've not tried using any of the Bondo products the way you have described. That said, it should work fairly well in closing the gaps and holes.

Since dj apparently knows more about Body Work than firearms, perhaps he would know if Body Putty would do better for a "skim" coat. It comes in a tube and you don't need to mix anything with it.

There are a couple of options on "Painting" that would resolve the issue though. I don't know the names of them and here again dj would be the guy to provide the correct names. If you go with the Spider Webbing effect or Splotched Surface(kind of like HUGE stippling with paint), that should mask any differences between the wood and Bondo.

When you get it done, let us know how well it comes out.

Blueprinted

Here's a stock that is made using a fiberglass repair kit and Bondo over an old Remington wood stock. The stock was all beat to hell with lots of pieces missing so I simply took different shaped pieces of wood and glued them to the stock with fiberglass, filled in the big voids with glass and cloth the sanded it to rough shape with a disc sander. The widened forend was made the same way, by gluing on long thin strips. Then evened up the dips with Bondo and some more sanding. Then a coat of non-skid truck bed paint and a couple coats of clear top coat.

Ray

Bondo will work great for what you describe.

Hey Cheechako, Nice job on the rifle!

The stock is wood. The new cheek piece is wood. Why not use "plastic wood" to fill in the gaps and imperfections. It's been around for decades. When it hardens you can just sand it like real wood. Then prime and paint a nice girly pink color for your daughter.

http://www.dap.com/media/product_photos/PlasticWood.aspx

That was my thought. Plastic wood is great stuff for us semi-amateur wood butchers. It even takes a stain OK if you use the right stuff. It works better than the three inch calk that I have to use every once in a while to close "seams". LOL
Judge Sharpe