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<G.Hansen>
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Pulling the barrel is not necessary. I have blued several rifles as barreled actions and it worked well.
 
Posts: 3822 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bobster:
Pulling the barrel is not necessary. I have blued several rifles as barreled actions and it worked well.


+1, not at all necessary.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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get yourself a copy of the latest sports afield magazine. SDH has another excellent article and this one of rust bluing
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks butch; and I wouldn't think of doing it without pulling the barrel, as would all the pros I know.
There is how ever many years of accumulated oil an crud in the barrel/breech joint that Will leak out to spoil any rust bluing.

BTW: new stuff on the website, super Dorleac photos!
Fine Gunmaking
There are nine photos of rust bluing in my shop at the bottom of the home page... note the barrel Off of the action.


ACGG Life Member, since 1985
 
Posts: 1837 | Registered: 07 February 2005Reply With Quote
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What Steve said, regardless of whether rust-bluing or hot-salt bluing.
Regards, Joe


__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
 
Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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1. Is the barrel bore normally coated with varnish throughout the rust-blue process?

2. Is the inside of the action, with all its cracks, crannies and threading normally carder by hand.

3. Which of the eight Budweiser Clydesdales is used for making the best "Rust-blue" solution?


 
Posts: 7158 | Location: Snake River | Registered: 02 February 2004Reply With Quote
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1. Some do, some don't. I quit a while back and haven't had an issue yet.

2. I use a combination of stainless toothbrushes and in some places degreased steel wool on a Q-tip stick or similar tool. There's probably better stuff I don't know about but that seems to get everywhere I need.

3. I think it was Fred.


"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
 
Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by SDH:
Thanks butch; and I wouldn't think of doing it without pulling the barrel, as would all the pros I know.
There is how ever many years of accumulated oil an crud in the barrel/breech joint that Will leak out to spoil any rust bluing.

BTW: new stuff on the website, super Dorleac photos!
Fine Gunmaking
There are nine photos of rust bluing in my shop at the bottom of the home page... note the barrel Off of the action.


Yeah, what do all of us non pros know?
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Question arose out of seeing 'advertisements,' offering 'rust bluing' services and an attendant price... for BARRELS ONLY?



I ran across what seems like the same ad not to long ago to.
I know they do not have to be seperated, but was wondering why just the barrels? Maybe he doesn't have a FFL and that he can not send and receive actions/guns?


Extreme Custom Gunsmithing LLC, ecg@wheatstate.com
 
Posts: 487 | Location: Wichita, ks. | Registered: 28 January 2007Reply With Quote
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Hi all,

The barrels referred to in the advertising could be double shotgun barrels. Soft soldered ribs on doubles, drillings, etc., tend to disassociate themselves in the caustic hot blue baths. Also, many double shotguns have dissimilar metal treatments for their actions. Just a thought.

Stephen
 
Posts: 538 | Location: Pacific Northwet | Registered: 14 August 2010Reply With Quote
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