The Accurate Reloading Forums
ntxt
25 October 2011, 06:55
<G.Hansen>ntxt
ntxt
25 October 2011, 07:05
BobsterPulling the barrel is not necessary. I have blued several rifles as barreled actions and it worked well.
25 October 2011, 07:08
craigsterquote:
Originally posted by Bobster:
Pulling the barrel is not necessary. I have blued several rifles as barreled actions and it worked well.
+1, not at all necessary.
25 October 2011, 18:34
butchlocget yourself a copy of the latest sports afield magazine. SDH has another excellent article and this one of rust bluing
25 October 2011, 22:19
SDHThanks butch; and I wouldn't think of doing it without pulling the barrel, as would all the pros I know.
There is how ever many years of accumulated oil an crud in the barrel/breech joint that Will leak out to spoil any rust bluing.
BTW: new stuff on the website, super Dorleac photos!
Fine Gunmaking There are nine photos of rust bluing in my shop at the bottom of the home page... note the barrel Off of the action.
ACGG Life Member, since 1985
25 October 2011, 22:52
J.D.SteeleWhat Steve said, regardless of whether rust-bluing or hot-salt bluing.
Regards, Joe
__________________________
You can lead a human to logic but you can't make him think.
NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
26 October 2011, 04:57
lawndart1. Is the barrel bore normally coated with varnish throughout the rust-blue process?
2. Is the inside of the action, with all its cracks, crannies and threading normally carder by hand.
3. Which of the eight Budweiser Clydesdales is used for making the best "Rust-blue" solution?
26 October 2011, 05:12
tiggertate1. Some do, some don't. I quit a while back and haven't had an issue yet.
2. I use a combination of stainless toothbrushes and in some places degreased steel wool on a Q-tip stick or similar tool. There's probably better stuff I don't know about but that seems to get everywhere I need.
3. I think it was Fred.
"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
26 October 2011, 09:24
craigsterquote:
Originally posted by SDH:
Thanks butch; and I wouldn't think of doing it without pulling the barrel, as would all the pros I know.
There is how ever many years of accumulated oil an crud in the barrel/breech joint that Will leak out to spoil any rust bluing.
BTW: new stuff on the website, super Dorleac photos!
Fine Gunmaking There are nine photos of rust bluing in my shop at the bottom of the home page... note the barrel Off of the action.
Yeah, what do all of us non pros know?
26 October 2011, 17:34
mad_jack02quote:
Question arose out of seeing 'advertisements,' offering 'rust bluing' services and an attendant price... for BARRELS ONLY?
I ran across what seems like the same ad not to long ago to.
I know they do not have to be seperated, but was wondering why just the barrels? Maybe he doesn't have a FFL and that he can not send and receive actions/guns?
Extreme Custom Gunsmithing LLC, ecg@wheatstate.com
29 October 2011, 21:50
Lord FrithHi all,
The barrels referred to in the advertising could be double shotgun barrels. Soft soldered ribs on doubles, drillings, etc., tend to disassociate themselves in the caustic hot blue baths. Also, many double shotguns have dissimilar metal treatments for their actions. Just a thought.
Stephen