Not that I would attempt it myself, but in thinking about the possibility of using this 1908 Brazilian Mauser for a custom sporter I wonder whether it is possible/practical for this heavy number stamping on the side of the ring to be repaired (erased)?

I realize that with enough skill and money, most everything is possible, but I'm wondering this is something might be able to be done cost-effectively?

And, by the way, does anyone know where/when these stampings were applied and what they mean?

Thanks.

Also, I think I know that draw filing might be a possibilty, but is there any other method (weld, etc.)?

yes, but not for the cost

I'd actualy look for another action. If you want to build a custom sporter, something with nice and clean lines with good wood and good blueing, you'll have a bunch of pit welding to do. I would pass on the action due to the pitting around the front ring. Without an xray, it's hard to determine the extent of the damage caused by the cancer.

NECG sells a front square bridge sleeve that will hide all those stampings and you end up with a very nice square bridge. Rear needs to be fabricated. To tig weld and grind will be much more costly.

gunmaker:

It is not the serial number, that is on the other side.

sell it

Hmmm.Guess I'll move along.seems a little snooty in here

If the serial number is on the otherside...

I would think someone good with a surface grinder could regrind the front ring for you. However, you'll probably loose the crest in doing so.

Seems to have quite a bit of corrosion on the front ring as well. Would take quite a bit of grinding and polishing to eliminate it. I don't think it would be worth the money.

You could simply fill it with epoxy, finish flush and paint it.

Id sell it because of that Rust and get a beter piece

Hello,
In the distant past, have seen such surface issues, insignias, etc. covered or hidden by stipling the area, but those numbers seem to be quite deep. Suggestion of covering with epoxy, marine tex, etc. and then painting may be your only reasonable choice-other than selling?? Good luck.

I had a Turk a few years ago with similar exaggerated stampings. The owner wanted a smooth .308 hunting rifle. First, I bead blasted the action. Then, I peened everything but the actual s/n with a small ball peen hammer, moving raised metal down into stamping voids. I used regular 50/50 soft solder to fill the remaining voids, like leading an auto body. Cleaned and prepped, applied Gun Kote, baked, and the customer could not believe it was the same action. I did not bother with any pits that were under the final stock lines.

mike in michigan,
have seen or heard from the guy whose gun you coated?. i'm wondering how well gun coat holds up? i,ve been more or les out of touch with what's all out ther for gun metal finishing in the last several years and the new user freindly "applied finishes" are new to me and i'm am a bit skeptical as compared to good old real blueing. i've never seen substantially good results from any kind of consumer freindly type of finish on anything. i am a cabinet maker, almost retired, and have seen allot of "new and better than anything else" finish systems for wood come and go for the same reasons. i do realize an applied finish won't stand up like a good blueing job and have some acceptance for an accordingly decent margine of durability.
sorry for the hijack, akriet, just a short answer will suffice and i'll do some looking into it.

Merlinron, I will see him this Friday for lunch and ask. I have used most of the spray-on finishes in the Brownell catalog with good results. Mike

I just wanted to say thanks for the advice and suggestions. Still debating.