I recently picked up a Custom 1917.The floor plate has had the step taken out.So I am assuming I need the trigger for a 5 round magazine.Is this correct???Also the rear top of the receiver has been milled flat and the ears removed.I am looking for a flat bottom base that I can grind down to the correct height to match the front.They can be a Weaver type or what ever.Even a one piece mount with enough height in the rear would work.Any suggestions to where I might find this?Thanks ahead,OB

Well, I was hoping we'd see some more action on this thread because I have a few of the same questions... Here are my comments FWIW.

Taking the step out does not affect magazine capacity. You are really just changing the ability to shape the stock to more pleasing lines up front. The vertical distance at the back screw and magazine area remain the same.

Some months ago I ordered an aftermarket trigger for the same rifle and I remember noting the same thing, that there were two flavors available. I did enough research at the time to determine which one I needed, but I don't remember the answer now.

Similarly, mine has had the ears milled flat. What I do depends on what direction the project takes, and I haven't decided for sure yet. If I want to go custom sporter I will contour the rear bridge and try to mill it so that the difference in height is compatible with some type of existing two piece bases. However, now I am kind of leaning towards building a tactical/sniper style rifle. It would have a thumbhole or BR type stock with bipod, painted desert sand color or OD green with splatters. (seen too many ads for "American Sniper" lately!)

In this case I think I would leave the rear bridge flat and mill the underside of a picitinny rail blank to account for any height differential.

I've seen the rear with the same contour as the ring, and also the rear with a mauser contour. Both looked nice.

I used a Timney Trigger from Brownells.
# American Enfield Trigger SPE1-4 5shot Item# 110
I used B&L Custom mounts but if IRCC Weaver mounts for a model 30 are useable.
This Timney trigger that I used was for a straight floor plate.

on trigger depth .. you can assemble the action and floor plate, screw it together as if it was in the wood, and then CALL TIMNEY and ask them which dimenstions to measure and they will answer you with which trigger

Thanks for the replies and helpful information.OB

I suggest that you use a Dayton Traister trigger, 4 or 5 round model. use the 4 round if you modify the bottom metal. The DT trigger matches the "cock on the opening" modification that goes with it. I consider that a must. Brownells has both units and they are compatible with each other, Timneys are not.

The rear ring needs to be tigged up after the ears are cut off and/or the peep sight removed, depending on the model and who made it. The peep, once removed, leaves a wide deep hole to fill, this done then the action needs to be surface ground to whatever specs you like.

I like the 700 Rem contour drilled and tapped and that gives you a lot of choice of scope mounts. However, if cost is a consideration keep in mind that Weaver and some other bases are available for the Enfield and only the rear ring needs to be filled and contoured with the peep sight model..That old adjustable peep on the REM an Win. made Enfields is a petty neat sight in itself and it integral an adjustable.

The Enfield requires a lot of expensive work, as does the Mauser, but the finished product is really nice imo. I prefer the Enfield for the large DG rounds.