The Clausing Model 1672 15" Variable Speed Drill Press I am rebuilding is running about .004 out of true.

The inside of the morse taper has been abused by jamming a dirty arbor in a dirty chip filled morse taper...

I am wondering if I should try to ream out the damage to improve runout. Anyone know of a #2 morse taper reamer, where to get one, and how to use it?

Help needed- the motor burned out this weekend too...

put some emery on a 1/2" dowel and polish the taper .

It just might work it out.

.004 runout on a mill is unacceptable but on a drill press isn't really that bad. Many brand new might run worse than that.

If the thing is running out, you won't get it trued by reaming. Maybe if there is some junk in there. Try the tooling catalogs like J&L industrial or MSC.

I have located a #2 morse taper finishing reamer on page 180 of MSC catalog...

Jim, I scrubbed the inside of the taper with a toothbrush and Engine Brite cleaner/degreaser and also Simple Green- I think I got all the junk and I am left with scratches and burrs but if you think reaming won't improve accuracy then it's a waste of time and 50 bucks for the reamer...

.004 isn't THAT bad I know- especially since I use the press for woodwork too but I'd like it running closer to .001

If anyone has any additional suggestions short of replacing the spindle, I'd listen. Any link, article, or book addressing variable speed pulleys and/or drill press accuracy or rebuilding would be greatly appreciated at this point.

I am having the motor rewound (professionally )

quote:

Originally posted by DeBee:
The Clausing Model 1672 15" Variable Speed Drill Press I am rebuilding is running about .004 out of true.

The inside of the morse taper has been abused by jamming a dirty arbor in a dirty chip filled morse taper...

I am wondering if I should try to ream out the damage to improve runout. Anyone know of a #2 morse taper reamer, where to get one, and how to use it?

Help needed- the motor burned out this weekend too...

Just curious, but where and how are you measuring the runout?

I would think you could do better by dialing the spindle in in a 4 jaw chuck and recutting the taper with a boring bar. I looked into doing this on a cheap drill press to cure some of its runout but gave up on the idea; the press wasn't worth the effort. Just a thought
C.G.B.

quote:

Originally posted by DeBee:
I have located a #2 morse taper finishing reamer on page 180 of MSC catalog...

Jim, I scrubbed the inside of the taper with a toothbrush and Engine Brite cleaner/degreaser and also Simple Green- I think I got all the junk and I am left with scratches and burrs but if you think reaming won't improve accuracy then it's a waste of time and 50 bucks for the reamer...

.004 isn't THAT bad I know- especially since I use the press for woodwork too but I'd like it running closer to .001

If anyone has any additional suggestions short of replacing the spindle, I'd listen. Any link, article, or book addressing variable speed pulleys and/or drill press accuracy or rebuilding would be greatly appreciated at this point.

I am having the motor rewound (professionally )

There is a yahoo group dedicated to clausing machine tools. It is a great source of info on the old clausing machines. Just go to yahoo and search clubs and groups.

John

Is the spindle running out or the chuck held in the spindle running out? How did you indicate the spindle for runout? bill439

do NOT cut on this at first...

you want to get a plastic taper cleaning "taper scraper".. grizzly sells them cheap.. and twist it into the taper


if that doesn't clean it out, spray a commerical engine degreaser into that.. scrape it again...

if THAT doesn't work, soak the whole thing in clr for 30 mins... FLUSH rinse, do the rinse again, scrape it out..

if you cut on it it WILL get further out of round.

but but but but but

knowing how folks use drill presses, you can bet the bearings are shot, not the taper.... if you ahve the same TIRO inside and out, your bearings are shot.. and easy to replace

jeffe

I'm indicating off the internal morse taper on the spindle. If this is not correct, please tell me how you do it...

I'm going to hold off on the reamer for now and go with the plastic reamer...

So, if the TIRO inside the taper and on the outside of the spindle are the same, then the bearing is shot??? Correct?

How does one replace the bearings? I heard something about ABEC bearings- anyone care to comment?

Debee,
here's one way to tell if your bearings are shot... indicate and rotate with the power off!!! inside.. mark the high H and low L spot

repeat for the outside... mark the high and low spot... do they line up? is it the same amount? MIGHT be bearings, but read on

repeat the indicated with the drill in it's LOWEST speed.... does the amount of tiro increase, vary, wiggle.. move? that IS the bearings...

ABEC (ay-beck) means they get better the higher number... and any rated is better than any unrated.. you'll need high speed precision bearings... abec 3 is generally "good" 5 is great, 7 is outstanding... btw, the cost goes up generally 30-50% per "level"

depending on the press, there could be as few as TWO races (imports) to 6... and I don't know your model to tell you how to go about replacing them... but you take them out, go to a bearing supply (most major cities have them), hand them the bearings (ALL of them) and ask for replacements... if you faint from the quote, ask for the "non-precision"...

jeffe

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