quote:

Originally posted by jeffeosso:
Matt,
make the mauser with a loose box, not an attached one. That should VERY MUCH simplify production, and would allow for basically 2 footprints, std and drop, with the box of the users choice.

should the USER want it attached, it would be a 25 buck welding job.


Bill,
sorry you are grouchy lately... but the thing is Matt and co DID change the design... i know for certain I didn't do everything right the first 10 rifles I made...

they got better, with feedback...


Matt, please also consider a smallring spacing, for 96's and mexican mausers, which having a floating box will allow the user (or gunsmith) to set it forward or back, depending on 96 or mexican...

I BELIEVE that would also allow it to fit yugo 48s, which i THINK are the same spacing as the small rings, but I could be wrong.

jeffe

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
No Jeffe, he is just talking about fixing it. He has not delivered anything yet, like the action.

Williams Machine Works

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
Well Matt, like your action, so far you are just talk and no action - pun intended. The proof is in the pudding.

Williams Machine Works

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
Triggerguard

I am just curious if your Action is going to use drop forgings as well.

Looking forward to your continued success with all of these projects.

Williams Machine Works

quote:

If a guy likes Blackburn, Sunny Hill, or Williams bottom metal, more power to him...but to say that any of them work “better†than the factory bottom metal is just plain silly.

Williams Machine Works

quote:

Originally posted by Displaced Texan:
Would some one provide contact Info. for
Blackburn bottom metal.

Thank You

quote:

Originally posted by triggerguard1:

quote:

If a guy likes Blackburn, Sunny Hill, or Williams bottom metal, more power to him...but to say that any of them work “better†than the factory bottom metal is just plain silly.

Well call me silly, but when you see the factory Winchesters on the shelf with .050" gap between the floorplate and the trigger guard at the point where they meet....that's a failure waiting to happen.
Also, when the rifles at the Shot Show can't even be completely closed and one soft tap with the palm of your hand send the floorplate flying open, that's a problem.

If you ever care to refinish your rifle in the future and would like to see the barreled action match the bottom metal.....you won't be doing that with aluminum.

I've yet to hear a problem with any of our assemblies, Blackburns, or Sunny Hills coming open during recoil and they all blue quite nicely.

Drop a factory aluminum guard installed on your rifle on a rock or hard surface some time by accident. You'll see why soon enough that steel or stainless is the way to go. Instead of broken pieces, you'll still have a rifle to hunt with, providing your scope survives of course.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
He wasn't referencing Mausers.

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
He was talking about the current crop of factory Remchesters, et al regardless of what the topic began about. When is the last time you saw aluminum bottom metal on a commercial (much less military) Mauser outside of some older J.C Higgins and lightweight Husqvarnas (aka Smith and Wesson)?

quote:

Originally posted by tiggertate:
I don't have a problem at all Rick, I just guess we read different things in Matt's post. When he started talking about aluminum bottom metal I guess I new he was off of Mausers and onto American factory rifles.

quote:

Originally posted by triggerguard1:

quote:

Originally posted by 22WRF:
Triggerguard

I am just curious if your Action is going to use drop forgings as well.

Looking forward to your continued success with all of these projects.

Yes they will.

We didn't want to offer our actions with our standard bottom metal, knowing that most customers who are wanting a true custom action on a finely finished rifle are going to replace that bottom metal with a Blackburn or Sunny Hill assembly. We wanted it right the first time; from bottom metal, top-of-line M70 trigger, double gas flanged bolt shroud, and the rest of the bells and whistles.

quote:

Originally posted by Rick 0311:

quote:

Originally posted by triggerguard1:

quote:

If a guy likes Blackburn, Sunny Hill, or Williams bottom metal, more power to him...but to say that any of them work “better†than the factory bottom metal is just plain silly.

Well call me silly, but when you see the factory Winchesters on the shelf with .050" gap between the floorplate and the trigger guard at the point where they meet....that's a failure waiting to happen.
Also, when the rifles at the Shot Show can't even be completely closed and one soft tap with the palm of your hand send the floorplate flying open, that's a problem.

If you ever care to refinish your rifle in the future and would like to see the barreled action match the bottom metal.....you won't be doing that with aluminum.

I've yet to hear a problem with any of our assemblies, Blackburns, or Sunny Hills coming open during recoil and they all blue quite nicely.

Drop a factory aluminum guard installed on your rifle on a rock or hard surface some time by accident. You'll see why soon enough that steel or stainless is the way to go. Instead of broken pieces, you'll still have a rifle to hunt with, providing your scope survives of course.

What, in your opinion, is an acceptable gap between the floor plate and the guard proper? Be careful with your answer, I’m sitting here with two of your Remington 700 units (brand new, never installed) and a feeler guage right now! I‘ve also got 1903 Springfield and a 1903 Turk Mauser units sitting here (never been modified) that have absolutely no gap and if you can bang either of them open with the palm of your hand I’ll send you the rifles they go on for free.

Replacing an aluminum unit with a steel one is not an aesthetic decision, so that doesn’t fit my stated scenario.

IMO, the factory bottom metal on Mausers “work†just as well as any bottom metal offered by the “custom†shops.

Williams Machine Works

quote:

Triggerguard

If you get a minute, when you are designing your Model 70 Triggers, see how much extra work it takes to make the thing adjustable for creep. I was saying on another thread that a little screw for the sear nose to sit on would be a good idea on those triggers because then instead of having to go in there with a stone one could just go in there and adjust the screw a wee bit. Shouldn't be to tough for a good machinist such as yourself (although the amount of time to do it might make the part cost more than people would want to pay for it)

Williams Machine Works

quote:

Originally posted by triggerguard1:

quote:

Triggerguard

If you get a minute, when you are designing your Model 70 Triggers, see how much extra work it takes to make the thing adjustable for creep. I was saying on another thread that a little screw for the sear nose to sit on would be a good idea on those triggers because then instead of having to go in there with a stone one could just go in there and adjust the screw a wee bit. Shouldn't be to tough for a good machinist such as yourself (although the amount of time to do it might make the part cost more than people would want to pay for it)

We have prototypes in house that will not require any stoning or polishing whatsoever. They have been wire EDM'd to a 4 micron finish on the engagement areas and we have used these triggers on 2 post-64's and one pre-64 achieving safe trigger pulls down to 1 lbs. with no creep.
We are recommending these be not set lower than 2lb, but for as many years as my father and I have been looking over and reworking triggers on post and pre-64 model 70's, we've yet to find a trigger that could accomplish these trigger pull weights safely, even with careful hand stoning and polishing.
We are looking very hard at having these available for the Model 70 Winchester fans who don't want to resort to using a Timney or Jewell trigger, but still want the performance.