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Cock on Opening mod for Swede
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<Jn316>
posted
I have a very nice little sporterized Swede Carbine that my daughter shoots. This rifle having the carbine length barrel is just the right size and weight for her. The only problem she has is the "cock on closing" bolt is difficult for her to use.

So the question is, are the 'cock on opening' conversions any good?. Are they worth having? Quality?

Or is there another option that we could use. I did consider reducing the spring tension. But discarded that option because I dont believe that we could reduce it far enough and still have reliable function.

Thanks... ray

 
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<MC>
posted
Jn316,

I have used several over the years and had no problem with them. You will have to modify the military trigger or replace it with a after market one such as a timney.

I believe Brownells carries them.

mc

 
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<Jn316>
posted
Is this conversion something that will take a gunsmith to do or if I'm handy with tools and such that I could do?

Oh the trigger isn't a prob. The rifle already has a Timney.

 
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Picture of Robgunbuilder
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The dayton-Traister conversion works really well and is easy to do with a file or dremel tool. No problems and it makes a world of difference. You will be very pleased-Rob
 
Posts: 6314 | Location: Las Vegas,NV | Registered: 10 January 2001Reply With Quote
<Scott H>
posted
Also the Dayton-Traister kit speedlocks the the striker. Total striker travel is roughly 1/4"

Scott

 
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<Jn316>
posted
Thanks for the info everyone. I'll give the Dayton unit a try.

.......ray

 
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The Dayton Traister kit works fine, and I wouldn't try to convince anyone not to buy one. I just happen to feel that the cocking piece that is the heart of the kit is rather ugly, and not in keeping with the wonderful quality of the original Swede craftsmanship.

Has anyone here ever tried to modify the original cocking piece? Perhaps by silver soldering a "key" into a slot cut into the original part? Isn't this how it would have been done before the days of investment casting ?

Regards,
Scott

 
Posts: 117 | Location: Sierra Foothills, CA | Registered: 14 November 2001Reply With Quote
<MC>
posted
I believe that there is a write-up on that method in one of Brownells "Kinks" books.

I have removed the sear portion of the cocking piece and replaced it with a new one holding it in place with screws, lots of work but it works.

mc

 
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