Hand checkering tools drive me nuts because they take so derned long (in my hands) to complete a rifle. Are the power tools much faster (after some practice, of course)? Which units are preferred and why? Thanks.

Much, much faster. Of course, that applies to f**king up a stock as well.

Where I use it is in the lay out; that's where it is so much faster and so much easier to keep lines straight. After I have the pattern completely laid out and spaced, I sink the lines using carbide hand tools.

Andy,
I wasn't any better with the power checkering... and at least i get to cuss longer when I use the hand tools

Hey with power I could "F" it up even quicker.

Only use them for spacing, occationally make a second pass in the opposite direction. (That's going back over in reverse. Start with recutting the last line going back, then proceed towards the first line.)
All the rest is done un-powered.
Will RUIN your stock without experience.
I wouldn't checker without the machine!

Do you want to use a mule or a tractor to farm? A mule will do the job, but a tractor is much faster and you can keep straighter lines. Learn to work the electric tools and you will find it much more relaxing. SDH has most points listed, but I use an air line spout made from WD 40 spray cans down by the cutting wheel. This keeps the dust blown out of the lines as you space.

I started using the MMC tools in 1967. Get the carbide hand tools and you will be cutting with better results in no time.

My 2 Ct worth

A quick look at cutters for the power checkering tools shows mostly 90 degree cutters. I notice hand cutters are available in 60 or 90 degree versions. Any particular difference except the 90 degree checkering may wear longer?

I started off with an MMC 15 years ago, but I found the cable to be a pain. About 10 years ago I switched to a Carbide Checkering unit which came in a left handed arrangement. I have an electric powered tool with the motor in the handle. Like SDH I just use the tool for layout and finish the pattern with a hand tool. Now to can go to HELL in a hurry with one of these electric tools. You need to pay attendion to the straightness of your lines. It doe take some practice..

Thanks guys!

Clowdis,

With 60-degree cutters you have to cut a lot deeper to get your points. I don't use them.

quote:

Originally posted by ACRecurve:
Hand checkering tools drive me nuts because they take so derned long (in my hands) to complete a rifle. Are the power tools much faster (after some practice, of course)? Which units are preferred and why? Thanks.

I did a few stocks with the dem bart hand tools and then went to Brownells and got a NSK ELECTOR GX complete with foot controls......and it worked marvelously.....cut the time to checker a stock by 2/3 s....great tool with carbide cutters at 90 deg.....

That said it still didn't make me a good checkerer.....my patterns were still poor and I now farm the work out to folks that are good at it.....in the end it was a waste of $1,100 and it's now gathering dust in the cabinet.

quote:

Originally posted by clowdis:
A quick look at cutters for the power checkering tools shows mostly 90 degree cutters. I notice hand cutters are available in 60 or 90 degree versions. Any particular difference except the 90 degree checkering may wear longer?

Years ago I took a checkering class from Bill Knechtel. Not sure if he's still putting on the classes? His recommendation was to use:
90 for 16-22 lpi
75 for 24-28 lpi
60 for 30 lpi and over

60 for layout and master lines.

I use a 75 deg carbide wheel for spacing on my Doiron electric checkering tool. Then follow up with 75deg hand tools. Most of my projects are English Walnut and the checkering falls into 24-28 lpi. It takes and wears fine checkering much better than Claro. If I'm working on a soft piece of wood, I'll use the 90. Try NOT working on soft pieces of wood! The guide follows better in the 75 while power spacing.

Bill past away last year... He was a nice guy and great teacher...

Mark nice to see you back.

It's nice to be back....