Guys,

The mounts I've been making to provide recoil shoulders for Leupold QRW rings are coming right along. Have three sets close to finished. Two are for rifles that do not have iron sights.

The third set is for a DGR (.458 AR) which does have a front sight. The rear mount for that rifle has 0.300" of material behind the rear ring. I'd like to put an adjustable peep sight back there.

One way to do vertical adjustment is to use a finely threaded rod that has the peep on it and a set screw to hold it in place.

Am having a little difficulty visualizing how to build a means to do windage adjustment. The rear block is 0.833" wide. Is roughly 0.575" above the top of the arc of the action. So I have a space of 0.575" (height) x 0.833" (width) x 0.300" (thickness) to work with.

How much side-to-side adjustment should be provided for the peep?

Any ideas for a design that can be machined into the rear base? Any pictures showing good ideas?

Sure appreciate your help!

quote:

How much side-to-side adjustment should be provided for the peep?

Depends on wheather the peep is TDC over the bore or not.

How about a dovetail, for the peep to slide s-s? With set screws to lock both windage and elevation.

Keith

what keith said.. copy the ashley/XO sight system .. the fore to after length is not important on them

Jeffe,

I can only find an Ashley XO sight that has its dovetail on the top flat. The space I have is on the back flat of the sight.

I think I can make a dovetail cut side to side and a slider to go in the cut. I can connect a block to the slider with 2-56 flat head screws from the underside of the slider.

The block can then be drilled and tapped for a rising post that has a peep or other sight at its top.

The interesting challenge becomes how to anchor the slider when it's in the right position. If there is enough room, one count build a ferrule that is cut to fit the slider dovetail angle and is tightened against the slider by a bolt through the ferrule's center. Would be good if there is one on both sides of the slider. Not sure there is enough room to do that even a 4-40 bolt bolt was used.

That leaves cutting a slot in the slider on each side through which a locking screw is inserted and tightened against the slider. Is just a challenge of milling a very narrow slot for a small bolt like a 4-40.

Thoughts?

My 2 cents worth...

Since these are pretty cool customs, don't limit yourself to thinking the peep has to be mounted on the rear base, mounting on the front base is also an option and would work quite well too, especially for a DGR type gun.

IMHO, the nicest way to add one to the bases pictured:


would be to mill a horseshoe into the end and make a flip-up style.

Similar to this, minus the notched blade:


Use shim washers on the sides to adjust windage, or make a blank one from aluminum and use it to determine windage and elevation, then make a permanent one from steel. I'd sight it in at 50-75 yards and be done with it. You could also make the aperture larger and make replaceable inserts out of metal or just fill with epoxy and then figure out where to drill the final aperture.

I don't know what you have for a front sight but if you use a front like the NECG/ERA's that I have they can handle the elevation and all you need is the windage adjustment in the rear which should be relatively easy with a slot and the retaining screw entering from the rear. A flush flathead allen would clear the bolt handle and could be of sufficient size to hold the windage. Similar to the ones on the old Redfield bridge type base.

contact JOE SMITHSON,he has some unreal peep sights made by STUARTS SATTERLEES father, best i have seen
Daniel

Hello Mike,
I believe I understand that you are to use this "sight" on a DGR and this would lead me to believe that windage adjustment is not that critical compared to rifles used for longer ranges. If you use a banded front sight, TDC the dovetailed/attached rear peep sight and both front and rear are regulated/correspond in height, any windage you may need I feel confident could be accomplished by rotating the front sight band right or left as needed/required to bring you to where you want to be. It will not take much adjustment to do this and will not appear "off center" to the eye. Once that is determined, index the band, reinstall via press fit and with epoxy and most likely will be there as long as you want it. If you precisely establish the mechanical zero for the rear and leave the left/right adjustment to the front sight, much simpler. Even though my long range match rifles have fully adjustable Warner rear sights, front sight band is corrected to line up with rear sights mechanical zero setting to facilitate full windage adjustment for the rear. Whole different application as compared to DGR and the somewhat limited ranges they would be used. Remember the KISS moto!!