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Here's a few pics, or more, of gunsmithing the 09 floormetal. Had to pre polish the floorplates. Tooling used for project: The angled block was fit like a dummy floorplate and then flipped upside down and milled off to get the right angle. I also use this block to extend the magazine. I use a drill upside down to locate the hole and ream with a .125" This surface of the lever usually (not always) needs .010" taken off. I use a black marker to check if I'm zero and then mow it off. .010" worked perfect on this one. Next I file fit this slot with a safe edge needle file. Trying the floorplate shows that the hinge mortise is a little long and the plate doesn't fit flush against the mag box. I make sure that the front of the guard is not buggered. If it is I file the buggered parts out first so there isn't a gap between the guard and plate. THEN fit the length of the hinge. First pic is an easy way to mill this off. You can hand file it, but I wouldn't recommend it. The pic on the right is the fixture I use for this operation. I can take off a little, try it and take off a little more without losing my zero. The plate finally fits correctly and now it's time to drill the hinge pin hole. I use an angeled wood block to hold the plate tight to the mag box. I first set zero with the back of a drill bit. The tab on the back of the mag box is pushed against the vise jaw to set the part square. I verify this with my cross test level. I always dial this hole in with an indicator. Just takes a minute. Then drill it with a #31 and ream with a .125" reamer. Now it's time to fit the latch part of the lever. These are a little long to work with the different floorplates that are available. I level the surface and then mill it off. Average amount is around .015" with this plate. Other plates will vary a lot. Usually I leave this dimension a little long so after stocking and final polish the lever will still hold the plate tight. The final step is to use a BB from my boy's Red Rider and stake the inside of the hole so the pin won't drift out on it's own. It's done! | ||
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Thank you Jim. I hope this is the start of more how to posts. | |||
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Gunmaker With that much expertise in doing these alterations it would seem that the next step would be to just make the whole unit yourself. Beautiful work! I believe you also recontour the triggerguard bow as well, and of course do a complete polish job. | |||
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Had I known it was this easy Jim, I would have done my own instead of sending it to you. ______________________________ "Truth is the daughter of time." Francis Bacon | |||
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I love it! When can I stop by and pick it up? Terry -------------------------------------------- Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? | |||
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James, how much would it cost to have that done on a Argie 09 if the if bottom metal is sent to you? Allen It's a Mauser thing, you wouldn't understand. | |||
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I can attest that James' work is outstanding. The finished product is even better than the pictures show. He is a fine craftsman. I just hope James doesn't let this praise go to his head! | |||
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Where are the beginning pics? Doug Humbarger NRA Life member Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73. Yankee Station Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo. | |||
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Looks great! It makes me want a 1909 Argentine action..for just to have it Thanks for sharing your work James DRSS: HQ Scandinavia. Chapters in Sweden & Norway | |||
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Great info! I like the fixtures. When are the pics of extending the magazine of that nice shiney guard coming? -Don | |||
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Allen The plate runs $60 and the checkered release $20 The smithing for these two parts around $75. Argentine guards have been bouncing around for many years and some are in pretty bad shape. The one shown in the pictures was in new, never issued condition. It still had some dings to be fixed before I could start fitting the parts. If it takes me longer to work on any given guard then the client needs to pay for it. It's really too bad that most of the 09 guards have the screw holes staked and buggered. Fixing these just takes more time/money. | |||
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That would run extra | |||
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James Excellent work and attention to detail. Thanks for posting pictures and please keep it up. James | |||
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Cool photo essay. As a custom rifle buyer the step by step photos that you and Duane post make me really appreciate the work that goes into the rifles. Thanks. Forrest NRA Life Member GOA Life Member Distinguished Rifleman President's Hundred | |||
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Can you do that for a 1910 Mex bottom metal? | |||
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No, The Mex floormetal doesn't have the same guard bow as the Arg. | |||
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I should of been more specific, if I put the right trigger bow on, can you make the floor plate and convert to a hinged unit. Blackburns are impossible to get, and Sunyhills are a bit spendy, is this an option? | |||
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Anything is posible, just not economical. Here's one I fitted to a yugo guard. Next time I'd cut the bow off and replace it though. With all the labor involved I can't see it being much less than sunny hill though. -Don | |||
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I'd have to agree with Don. It would be spendy to take the time to convert an 09 style guard for the Mex. Might be cheaper to shorten an 09 floormetal on your own like shown in the Kuhnhausen book to Mex length. As for the price of new floormetal, I still think if Blackburn charged what they were worth, he'd have made enough money to consistently stay in business. That $300 price for first class floormetal is so far below what it's worth it's not even funny. Sunny Hill is priced closer to what it should be. | |||
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Don, that would be the plan, I bought one of the trigger bows off this sight, so to have it welded on and floor plate made and adapted, really going to be the price of a Sunnyhill? | |||
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Wow! You make it look so easy... Thanks for the tutorial. -- Brian | |||
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