Just for the sake of discussion, which would be stronger.

1. A bolt made by turning down a large round of steel to leave the locking lugs of proper size and then drilling out for the firing pin; or

2. Starting out with a round of steel the correct size, drilling out for the firing pin, and then broaching a hole for a piece of steel that becomes the locking lugs, which is then welded just to keep it in place, and only making a hole through it inside just large enough for the firing pin to go through.

And one more question.

Why is it not possible to make a 2 piece controlled feed bolt so that one can screw on the front piece depending no what caliber he/she wants to shoot in it? (for a takedown rifle)

WRF

The Rem 700 bolts (the old ones at least) are two piece with the locking lug portion pinned in place. The Savage bolts have a very similar arrangement but the bolt head is removeable in order to change bolt faces.

Any bolt, reward of the locking lugs, need not be particularly strong. At least not as strong as the lug part.

ray

machine from a flat bar, not a round bar.. you edm away the most part, then machine .. from a round, you are going to machine, machine, machine, and machine some more, just to get the a flat bar...

you make a 2 (or more) piece bolt to save money and time, as it's far easier to machine away .250 than 2.5

sorry for butting in but I have a sako forester of my great uncles but he lost the bolt on a pdog hunt.

so how would u go about making a bolt for one.

You could do a recessed 3 lug bolt where the lug is the same dia. as the bolt body. No raceway in the receiver either :-)

Rich

The Sportco Model 44 had a 3 lug bolthead pinned into the mild steel bolt body. The strength question is immaterial, unless you specify the lug engagement area, lug depth and material strength and the expected pressures.

quote:

Why is it not possible to make a 2 piece bolt so that one can screw on the front piece depending no what caliber he/she wants to shoot in it?

Very viable idea and used in millions of firearms example include:

Savage 10 and variants: pinned in bolt head, easy to change to different calibers.
Enfield No.1 MkIII and other variants uses a threaded in bolt head that is very easy to change and used to correct headspace as they come in different thickness.

I have some aluminum bolts that have a pinned steel head.
Butch

I think no. 1 would yield a stronger bolt. No. 2 is how Remington does it for the 700's. But they solder on the handle too!

When I made a replacement bolt for a 40X I have, I made it in two pieces with the bolt head pinned to the bolt body with a 3/8" pin; somewhat like the Savage. The bolt head is made of EN30B while the body is c1045 shafting. The bolt handle/extractor cam are integral.
It's relatively simple to make a CRF bolt the same way by leaving a gap for the extractor collar.
The advantages of the two piece bolt in my situation was that I didn't want to have to drill for the sriker through a full length piece of EN30B. It's kind of tough stuff. The 1045 is easily machinable and has enough carbon to make it easy to harden the cocking cam.
I have to add; if Dave Kiff had been making his bolts when I made this one, I wouldn't have bothered! Regards, Bill

Forged to the general shape. Then machined.
Timan

quote:

Why is it not possible to make a 2 piece controlled feed bolt so that one can screw on the front piece depending no what caliber he/she wants to shoot in it? (for a takedown rifle)

You can, it's just a little harder than with most other designs because the extractor has to be removed before the bolt head can be unscrewed and changed. Which also allows you to change to the correct extractor after changing the bolt head.